faubrunner64

well i was wondering, because i have replace a cv boot before and i saw how the most inner cv joint slid in and out of that housing to give it some travel for flexing. i was wondering, if i had low profile bump stops for up travel and downtravel, and also bj spacers, should i be worried about that inner joint being pulled out of its housing, due to the added down and up travel of the low profile bumpstops and the bj spacer?

leebee

pm elripster, iirc, he designed the original spacers and can shed a bit more light on them for you.

lee

slosurfer

Low pros for uptravel are good, but low pro for downtravel will rip your boots apart when the joint pulls out on full droop it will pinch the boot and rip it. In fact I had to shim my upper bumpstops.

norcalsvx

low pro's bumps are good, droops should stay stock

faubrunner64

ok thats what i was worried about is the droop travel! well it looks like ill keep the droop stock and the compresssions ill switch to low pro. thanks all

AndYota

I've heard that the lo-pro bumps on the compression (bottom) side can't handle the impact if you bottom out the front suspension hard by accident. It that just blowing smoke or a valid arguement?

norcalsvx

i've jumped mine a few times with out any problems

Matt16

Anyone on YT spread the frame or broken off the bump stop mounts while running low-profile bump stops?

I just installed BJ spacers and relaxed my T bars down as low as I could and still be in spec.

drew303

I haven't run low-pros and but dont plan to. when I was fighting a bent frame I actually had custom droop bumps i made to keep the crap from dropping so low the axle broke... well i ended up 'sploding an axle into a million pieces anyway lol

in all honesty tho, low pros for the droop (so it can compress that extra half inch) is worth it if you have the money but even with relaxed or somewhat turned torsions ive yet to be able to compress the already stock bumpstops. It's a frugal upgrade imo.... and if your jumping your rig then you're nuts. Less nuts if you've got a rear lower A-arm truss, but still nuts.

SR5

i have jumped mine so many times i lost count, and i have never had any problems

Matt16

It would give more than a half inch of compression as the bumpstop is located half way down the radius arm.

Ezrider_92356

would there be any problems running bj spacers and low profile drop bump stops on an 2wd rig? you don't have a cv to be worried about only possible problem would be ball joint travel

vwfastg60

Low pro up =good stock for droop=bad.

Passenger boot was torn from droop and later came busted inner joints. Stock bumpstops were the fix and i never had to replace the joints again. I couldnt hit my bumpstops on compression travel cause my tires would hit first. lol

Junkers88

Poop! Now it seems I have to replace some bumpstops. I did the low pro install a few months ago before I got the ball joint spacers.

So now I need to replace the lower low pros with stock bump stops to eliminate the possibility of my tearing a boot correct?

slosurfer

If you have low pros on the upper bumpstop (the one that the upper a-arm comes in contact with on droop), then you should replace those with the stock bumpstops. You may even have to shim your stockers.

Low pro on your lowers (the ones that the lower a-arms contact on compression) are just fine.

elripster

You can ship the upper low pros with about .5" of washers and you'll be fine. Or, you can reinstall the stockers.

You don't need to shim the stock ones though.

I to have jumped my truck with low pro lower stops without issues but the landings are a lot harder. I have contemplated replacing them with the stock ones just to have some added cushion but haven't actually done it yet. You are fine either way I think.


Frank

iamsuperbleeder

allow me to throw in a twist


what if you install a 1" diff drop?

drew303

It only helps a fraction.

I have bj's, stock bumpstops and a 1" dif drop. If you jack the rig up and lock the hubs, try spinning your tire you can feel the binding in the axles. This is bad. =) It gets better with the dif drop but its still not smooth. this is the cause of the axles failing

To much droop, the cv's simply want to pop out which usually results in a loud BANG and you then resort to 2wd

Regardless I wouldn't put low-pros on the upper bump stops to allow more droop. Just asking for unreliability.

If Toyota had designed a narrower front suspension and longer cv axles, we'd have a lot more room for fabrication and strength.

like this:




www.gocms.com

Matt16

I've thought of that, but the steering also limits the amount of droop practical. Your tie rods would be at such and angle that the idler arm would be in extreme peril. Furthermore, there isn't too much to gain from excessive amounts of droop, T bars being very progressive, there's very little spring left at droop, all it would allow is for the shock to have more travel to slow the wheel compression when tipping after being crossed up.

Furthermore, Toyota did a pretty good job with IFS travel. IFS travel is limited (by design) by the angles that can be tolerated by the steering and axles. The buggy above can have such long travel because the control arms are longer, thus the steering and axle angles can be relatively minor. On the bugggy, the control arms and CVs because the engine sits above the IFS. The CV length is limited by clearance between the oil pan and the front diff. The only way to make the CVs (and thus the A arms) would be to place the front diff directly in the center of the truck where the oil pan sits. This means lowering ground clearance by 8", or lifting the engine up the same distance. There really wasn't a practical way from Toyota to give the IFS any more travel and maintain component strength and reliabilty.

Junkers88

I cut some 1/2 inch aluminum spacers this morning and installed them. It sure looks like I lost a butt pile of down travel with the spacers in there but it beats the heck out of tearing a boot.

I actually wonder if I'll even notice any difference when I go wheeling tomorow.....