Losing power (esp. up hills) even after tune up

PSUDawg · 03-13-2006, 11:07 AM

Hello all, longtime lurker, first time poster. Anyway...

As the title says, I'm having some problems and it feels like I can't get the RPM's up when in 4th or esp 5th gears. I'm not really looking for great power as this is a 1994 22RE 4x4 with 189,900 mi on it, but over the last couple of days, it has gotten to the point where I can't do more than 50-55 at best up a hill (and that's in 4th) on the Interstate. I have searched the forum and have seen many things that could cause this, but I need a few more details on the next steps to take since I'm getting toward the high dollar parts now (cat, EGR, O2 sensor, exhaust, etc). All I have is a Haynes manual, and I fairly regularly put a 150 mi/day on this beast.

Here's what I've done in the last few days to little avail:
plugs,
plug wires,
pcv valve,
air filter,
fuel filter,
distributor cap,
rotor

The clutch was replaced at 165000, and doesn't feel like it's slipping. I have no tach in the truck. Believe it or not, most parts on this truck are original.

So, with cost in mind, what's the best move now? Is there a good way to check the major exhaust/emissions components for this kind of problem before beginning to replace these relatively costly parts? the manual seems very poor in this respect.

Thanks for any responses.

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rpeAMP · 03-13-2006, 11:50 AM

Maybe compression check at this point?

regularguy412 · 03-13-2006, 11:57 AM

You changed the fuel filter, but did you check the fuel pressure? Maybe it's starving for fuel.

MIke in AR

PSUDawg · 03-13-2006, 11:59 AM

Thanks AMP. Is there a way to do that at home without a guage, i.e. kind of a pass/fail test to indicate whether this is the issue or not? I live about 30 miles from the parts stores.

PSUDawg · 03-13-2006, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by regularguy412

You changed the fuel filter, but did you check the fuel pressure? Maybe it's starving for fuel.

MIke in AR

Um, no. When I changed the plugs, they did kinda look like they had been in a lean environment--you know kind of grey/white and all around the top. How do you check that, and do you have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump?

Thanks, regularguy.

PirateFins · 03-13-2006, 01:04 PM

Another suggestion would be to check your timing. 5* BTDC with the diagnostics connector jumpered between TE1 and E1. Check your TPS setting. And pull the cat and inspect it, remove it and look thru both ends to see if it is plugged. The compression test can be done at home, just need to get a compression tester and follow the instructions. Lots of post on here and in the FSM link on how to.

Where in Central PA are you? Maybe someone is nearby to lend a hand?

Here is a link to a FSM for more info for you to go along with the Haynes.

FSM

regularguy412 · 03-13-2006, 01:13 PM

The FSM is VERY helpful. Use it. I have a 3.0 V6, so I'm not really familiar with the 4-Cylinder. However, there should be a place on the fuel rail near the injectors to check fuel pressure with a gauge. Be sure to do any fuel pressure testing with the engine overnite cold. Don't want any flames.

If your 94 is like my 92, you shouldn't have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump fittings. There should be an access panel under the carpet beneath the passenger side rear seat. It's right next to the door jamb.

Mike in AR

rpeAMP · 03-13-2006, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PSUDawg

Thanks AMP. Is there a way to do that at home without a guage, i.e. kind of a pass/fail test to indicate whether this is the issue or not? I live about 30 miles from the parts stores.

Well I've never done it myself so I have no idea. Maybe someone around here knows. I do remember that my check was inexpensive, around $40 or something.

PSUDawg · 03-13-2006, 01:24 PM

Thanks guys, you've been generous.

To answer your question, Pirate, I'm in Liberty Twp, outside Danville, PA. I work in State College, though, which is about 75 mi. I usually take my truck, since my wife uses our 4runner.

I'm familiar with compression testing, just don't have a guage here. I also don't have a timing light or anything, but it's beginning to look like I need to invest in a couple more tools.

I've been reading on the O2 sensors, and it seems that they're recommended service items every 30 or 60K or something, but mines the original. I guess I should replace it anyway, but does anyone know whether it could cause the kinds of symptoms above, or is it more likely a fuel/timing/cylinder issue?

Also, maybe I should mention that the idle is a little funky/rough *after* the truck warms up. From a cold start, it's fine for a few minutes.

Thanks again guys.

PSUDawg · 03-17-2006, 01:50 PM

Hello all,
Just a follow-up here. Knowing full well that there is certainly more than one issue going on with these noises, idling, and power loss issues, I think I did figure out what happened with this loss of power on the highway. The filter in the little assembly (I can't remember what you call it) that leads to the EGR valve was all kinds of clogged. For the moment, I just removed the top layers of it and used the ol' shop vac to get some of the other crud (it looked just to be carbon deposits--after all, it *has* been on there for just under 200k miles) and put it back on. The parts stores around here didn't seem to offer that filter thing, not that it looks real complicated to duplicate.

Anyway, long story short, the power loss issue is gone for the moment and it's back to replacing many other parts that are beginning to show their wear. Thanks to everyone who suggested anything, and esp to Pirate for the reminder link to the other manual.

Blackulua · 03-18-2006, 12:34 PM

I have the same problem and I had a spare ignition module that bolts on top of coil was replaced and now the truck runs really well.I think it is from all of the rain we've been having outside.My engine is a 22re and now is running really strong.

03-13-2006, 11:50 AM	#2 (permalink)
rpeAMP Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 420	Maybe compression check at this point? __________________ Preston Edwards 1992 4Runner SR5 V6 4WD (5 Spd.) 246,000 miles & counting 2" Downey coils, 32x11.5x15 BFG A/Ts, Rockcrawler Series 51 wheels, Magnaflow exhaust, Yakima roof rack, ARB bull bar, SAW Torsion bars, (4) PIAA 520s, Cobra 18 WX ST II CB w/ Firestik antenna, hp iPaq GPS 2008 Toyota 4Runner Limted 4X4 15,000 miles & counting

03-13-2006, 01:13 PM	#7 (permalink)
regularguy412 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 490	The FSM is VERY helpful. Use it. I have a 3.0 V6, so I'm not really familiar with the 4-Cylinder. However, there should be a place on the fuel rail near the injectors to check fuel pressure with a gauge. Be sure to do any fuel pressure testing with the engine overnite cold. Don't want any flames. If your 94 is like my 92, you shouldn't have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump fittings. There should be an access panel under the carpet beneath the passenger side rear seat. It's right next to the door jamb. Mike in AR Last edited by regularguy412; 03-13-2006 at 01:15 PM.

03-18-2006, 12:34 PM	#11 (permalink)
Blackulua Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hawaii Posts: 151	I have the same problem and I had a spare ignition module that bolts on top of coil was replaced and now the truck runs really well.I think it is from all of the rain we've been having outside.My engine is a 22re and now is running really strong. __________________ Black 1988 4wd Pickup 22re / White 1988 4wd 22re /1990 2wd PU 22re

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03-13-2006, 11:57 AM	#3 (permalink)
regularguy412 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 490	You changed the fuel filter, but did you check the fuel pressure? Maybe it's starving for fuel. MIke in AR

03-13-2006, 11:59 AM	#4 (permalink)
PSUDawg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 7	Thanks AMP. Is there a way to do that at home without a guage, i.e. kind of a pass/fail test to indicate whether this is the issue or not? I live about 30 miles from the parts stores.

03-13-2006, 01:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
PSUDawg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 7	Thanks guys, you've been generous. To answer your question, Pirate, I'm in Liberty Twp, outside Danville, PA. I work in State College, though, which is about 75 mi. I usually take my truck, since my wife uses our 4runner. I'm familiar with compression testing, just don't have a guage here. I also don't have a timing light or anything, but it's beginning to look like I need to invest in a couple more tools. I've been reading on the O2 sensors, and it seems that they're recommended service items every 30 or 60K or something, but mines the original. I guess I should replace it anyway, but does anyone know whether it could cause the kinds of symptoms above, or is it more likely a fuel/timing/cylinder issue? Also, maybe I should mention that the idle is a little funky/rough after the truck warms up. From a cold start, it's fine for a few minutes. Thanks again guys.

03-17-2006, 01:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
PSUDawg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 7	Hello all, Just a follow-up here. Knowing full well that there is certainly more than one issue going on with these noises, idling, and power loss issues, I think I did figure out what happened with this loss of power on the highway. The filter in the little assembly (I can't remember what you call it) that leads to the EGR valve was all kinds of clogged. For the moment, I just removed the top layers of it and used the ol' shop vac to get some of the other crud (it looked just to be carbon deposits--after all, it has been on there for just under 200k miles) and put it back on. The parts stores around here didn't seem to offer that filter thing, not that it looks real complicated to duplicate. Anyway, long story short, the power loss issue is gone for the moment and it's back to replacing many other parts that are beginning to show their wear. Thanks to everyone who suggested anything, and esp to Pirate for the reminder link to the other manual.