Looking into 22RE Engine rebuild... a few questions
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Looking into 22RE Engine rebuild... a few questions
So, its finally that time, or getting close enough to it that I'm starting to look at sourcing some parts, and preparing myself for an engine rebuild.I would like to do it myself if possible. It won't happen till summer time, as I am a college student, and it is my DD. Right now the engine runs fine, no leaks, runs well, but it has an annoying tick in the top end. I have isolated it as possibly a valve or worn rocker arm. After 206,000 miles, she needs some love. I am looking to get some advice on what I am thinking on doing, as well hear from others who have done it.
Here's the Plan for the head:
Complete new Head from engbldr:
-Street RV head
-261C or 268C cam (haven't decided)
From 22RE Performance:
-Higher Oiling Rocker Shafts
-Complete OEM Gasket set (just good insurance)
From Toyota:
-OEM Rocker arms, springs, etc
I also plan to have the injectors rebuilt and plan to clean everything out on the intake side, and maybe throw on a good header.
For the bottom end is where I am not so sure. I could do the head only, but why half ass it. I'm halfway there at that point. What is the general consensus about wear in the short block on a 22RE? my engine has never been abused, or had any major service (Other than basics/timing chain) work done because it has been babied. Could it be possible to reuse the pistons, crank, and rods? I know this may seem like an extremely stupid question because there is probably no way to know for the engine until I pull the old head and take measurements. Could It be possible to get away with a polish on the crank journals, a light hone and new rings and bearings? Or is it more likely I will have to hone and go to larger pistons, etc? I would like to keep the bottom end stock, as it has lasted 206,000, and would like to get another 200,000+ out of it. Thoughts?
Again, I know there is probably no way to know until I tear the engine apart and take measurements, but what have other people found in doing a rebuild with their engines?
Best,
Old Red
Here's the Plan for the head:
Complete new Head from engbldr:
-Street RV head
-261C or 268C cam (haven't decided)
From 22RE Performance:
-Higher Oiling Rocker Shafts
-Complete OEM Gasket set (just good insurance)
From Toyota:
-OEM Rocker arms, springs, etc
I also plan to have the injectors rebuilt and plan to clean everything out on the intake side, and maybe throw on a good header.
For the bottom end is where I am not so sure. I could do the head only, but why half ass it. I'm halfway there at that point. What is the general consensus about wear in the short block on a 22RE? my engine has never been abused, or had any major service (Other than basics/timing chain) work done because it has been babied. Could it be possible to reuse the pistons, crank, and rods? I know this may seem like an extremely stupid question because there is probably no way to know for the engine until I pull the old head and take measurements. Could It be possible to get away with a polish on the crank journals, a light hone and new rings and bearings? Or is it more likely I will have to hone and go to larger pistons, etc? I would like to keep the bottom end stock, as it has lasted 206,000, and would like to get another 200,000+ out of it. Thoughts?
Again, I know there is probably no way to know until I tear the engine apart and take measurements, but what have other people found in doing a rebuild with their engines?
Best,
Old Red
#2
I just have to ask. If it runs fine and has no leaks, why do you want to rebuild it? The ticking noise? Have you adjusted the valves at all? The valve tapping noise you describe is pretty normal, even with properly adjusted valves. I am not saying don't look into rebuilding it, but if my 22RE ran good with no leaks I would be happy
How about any sort of compression check to check the rings? Does it burn oil?
How about any sort of compression check to check the rings? Does it burn oil?
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
You know the answer .
Maybe you might get lucky.
Till it is all apart and measured no way to really know .
There could be one cylinder for what ever reason needs .020 to make it round.
One crank journal scored by a bearing just about ready to fail.
Another way to go is get another Engine rebuild that one and just swap with your tired one.
Maybe you might get lucky.
Till it is all apart and measured no way to really know .
There could be one cylinder for what ever reason needs .020 to make it round.
One crank journal scored by a bearing just about ready to fail.
Another way to go is get another Engine rebuild that one and just swap with your tired one.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just have to ask. If it runs fine and has no leaks, why do you want to rebuild it? The ticking noise? Have you adjusted the valves at all? The valve tapping noise you describe is pretty normal, even with properly adjusted valves. I am not saying don't look into rebuilding it, but if my 22RE ran good with no leaks I would be happy
How about any sort of compression check to check the rings? Does it burn oil?
How about any sort of compression check to check the rings? Does it burn oil?
#5
The engine itself runs good, and no leaks to report anywhere. Never has burned oil, for me or the previous owner. (206, xxx miles) I do need to do a compression check. I have adjusted the valves several times, and I know that some valve noise is perfectly normal. I have another 22RE that I can judge off of, and I know a good purring engine noise from a not so good one. Right now I am just fact and opinion gathering. I know I am going to do the head because the tapping I have isolated to the #4 exhaust valve (it is either not seating properly, or is messed up). At that point, if I am doing the head, I might as well consider or possibly redo or freshen up the bottom end when its exposed and I can get to it.
I had my head crack at around 200k miles (overheated, bad times). Even though I considered a complete rebuild I needed the truck running so I installed a new head. Kind of a blessing in disguise because after going through the top end and cleaning everything else up, the motor ran the best it ever had since I owned it. Still going strong 45k later, though my motor definitely didn't have the nice past that yours sounds to have had.
Good luck!
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
IMHO you have another 100k in that engine.
Now if you really feel its tired, get a spare complete engine to overhaul.. Last I looked its a 6 month waiting period for long blocks.
Yes; punch it .020 over. Also I send all my injectors to witchhunter. Cams and rockers all go to Delta cams in tacoma. I go to enginbldr for a master overhaul kit. Now my advice; rod bolts, have the old ones popped out and the big end resized with the ARP bolts due to fatigue. These bolts are done by 200k and its so cheap to properly overhaul / recondition the rods. Simple engine do it right, save aggravation.
Now if you really feel its tired, get a spare complete engine to overhaul.. Last I looked its a 6 month waiting period for long blocks.
Yes; punch it .020 over. Also I send all my injectors to witchhunter. Cams and rockers all go to Delta cams in tacoma. I go to enginbldr for a master overhaul kit. Now my advice; rod bolts, have the old ones popped out and the big end resized with the ARP bolts due to fatigue. These bolts are done by 200k and its so cheap to properly overhaul / recondition the rods. Simple engine do it right, save aggravation.
Last edited by skypilot; 02-02-2015 at 02:00 PM.
#7
I have that same exact noise from the top end of my engine as well! I have an 87 4runner sr5 170k and it turns out for me that the PO of 26 years barely drove the truck and barely changed the oil. So there was some uneven wear in the cam lobes near the exhaust which gives it that annoying ticking sound. I'm with you where if its that torn apart might as well do the whole engine.
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