redtacoma31

I recently purchased a 87 22ret. It was an orginal 22re truck. With the turbo added. It is suppose to have the turbo computer. It has the turbo intake manifold. I dont have a diagnostic plug. I checked and checked. I even tried to find the wire colors I needed. I cant find those in the harness anywhere on the passengers side engine bay. I The harness has no cuts in it. So I am not sure why I dont have it. If the previous owner would have snagged the turbo harness as well. Maybe off an older truck. What color would the wire be then?

I hooked a test bango bolt into the cold start injector with new copper washers. Installed a new pressure regulator, and filter with new washers. The bolts are pretty tight as well. I was having instant pressure drop on the fuel pressure guage. Now I can hold 32psi for about an hr. Over night though. It will read 0. This results in a super long crank time. I dont like that. As soon as I show about 30psi she will fire right up. I want turn key vrooom. Also after the truck is warm, and I still have pressure it takes awhile to start. I have not checked the cold start injector, temp switch #2, or the time switch.

I need help with the lines slowly bleeding off, and hard to start warm engine. I dont have a clue were the fuel pump jumper point is either.

Sturmcrow

From my understanding, there is a check valve just after the fuel pump. Likely, yours is no longer "checking" fully. However, that would not cause hard starts after the engine is warmed up. Have you checked compression?

My truck takes about 2 seconds to start, which actually seems pretty long to me. My old honda was "chirp chirp purrrrrr" as long as the mercury was above 10 F, but it also had a fuel pump that kicked on as soon as you turned the key to "on"

redtacoma31

I have not checked compression yet. I am going to put NGK plugs, BWD wires, cap, and rotor in her tonight. I will check compression at the same time. The previous owner said, the motor was rebuilt to turbo specs to allow for the turbo. So I assumed he bored, or atleast honed it with new pistons and rings. The head is painted bright yellow all the way around. So it has been off at least. Where is the check valve? In the tank, or on the line?

Sturmcrow

I believe it is integrated into the pump, so in the tank.

scope103

correct. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...28fuelpump.pdf

coryc85

One thought is a leaky cold start injector, which could explain why your pressure bleeds off and possibly even why it's hard to start warm (flooded maybe). The FSM has a test for #drips allowed from the CSI when it switches off, so should be easy to check. Also the cold start timer can be removed and it's resistance checked at warm and cold temps http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/toyefi.htm#timer

I would start there since you know you are losing fuel pressure, there must be a leak.

osv

i'm not sure that this is a check valve issue... my guess is that you should typically have enough fuel pressure for the cold start valve within 3-5 seconds of turning on the ignition key.

since you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the cold start valve, how long does it take to build fuel pressure, right after the ignition is turned on, to the run position? compare fuel pressure after one hour of running, versus after sitting all night.

i don't think that you'll find a diagnostic plug on the passenger side of an '87 toyota, it's a plug on the drivers side that has to be shorted with a paper clip, then read the flashing lights on the dash.

scope103

Or, for that matter, any of the other injectors. There is likely to be a leak somewhere, and since you don't smell gas, it's probably leaking into the tank or into the engine.

Well, it should take, forever. The fuel pump doesn't run with the ignition in the run position, it doesn't start until you turn the key to start. So if it takes 5 seconds to get the pressure up to 38 psi or so (it's not for the CSI, you need enough pressure for all the injectors), you'll have to crank for at least 5 seconds. Which I would call a "long" crank time.

redtacoma31

The long crank time has been resolved. The previous owner had a misadjusted TPS. I hold fuel pressure. It slowly goes down overnight, but still fires after two cranks.

osv

the only time that i've had anything like a 5 second crank time was after the fuel line was disconnected and partially drained... even after sitting for a week it fires right up... sounds like something is wrong with your truck(see the link below).

or perhaps my fuel relay is wired wrong... the other day i pulled the ecu, and i didn't see the co relay... better re-visit this area.

thanks for clarifying the fuel pump comment, this is what i should have posted... it's a good thing for everyone to know how to do:

"When does the fuel pump run?

• When the key in the iginition switch is in the START position (via the ECA STA signal wire)
• When the engine is running (key in ON position) and pulling air through the Air Flow Meter (AFM) causing the AFM-Fc contact to close
• Or when the key is ON and the Fuel Pump (FP) test jumper is installed
  • Note: If the FP jumper is absent, the fuel pump DOES NOT run if the engine is not running and the key is ON"

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

osv

thanks for following up with that fuel pressure comment, appreciate it.

i'm thinking that under normal circumstances, even without any residual fuel pressure in the system, there shouldn't be any long crank times.