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you can spray down the whole engine bay with cleaner and throw some UV dye into the oil fill hole, run the engine, and see where the main leak is coming from (if there are more than one). It's usually pretty evident under the black light.
but if you're going to go for it, a quick search came up with a few good hints
repair manual
page EG2-99 shows removal of the seal (after the trans is out of the way);
then EG2-115 shows installation of the new seal with and without removing the seal retainer http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/69cylin.pdf
Last edited by LolaL; 06-17-2015 at 04:40 PM.
Reason: page number correction
Thanks for the info LolaL. Also, could one of you take a look at this link and tell me if I should offer this guy something and if I should what I should offer? my truck is an 89 3.0 so everything should be the same hypothetically.
Thanks for the info LolaL. Also, could one of you take a look at this link and tell me if I should offer this guy something and if I should what I should offer? my truck is an 89 3.0 so everything should be the same hypothetically.
Ask whether the valve buckets and shims are included.
You might have future use for the valve shims.
A basket case 3.0 has very low value. Maybe $100, maybe less, if the heads, crank. and block are not damaged, and could be reworked.
If I have followed your posts correctly, your truck is still running, and you should require few, if any of these dead engine parts if/when you overhaul it.
I'd pass on this scrap, unless you are committed to systematicly (expensive) rebuilding it for exchange with the old one in your truck.
Personally, Id stick with the block and heads that are in my still running engine. Less suprises that way.
Thanks for the advice Millball, I just wasn't sure if it would be better to rebuild that then put it in my truck when it was done instead of just pulling mine and having my truck down until I get it finished
Unless I wanted to "get into the business," I'd stay away from a "basket case" engine. It got that way for a reason; someone took a non-running engine apart planning to do something, and then figured out he couldn't do it. It wouldn't surprise me if he got that far, ran a little Plastigauge on the bearings, and figured it wasn't worth the effort to continue.
As millball noticed right away, the valve buckets and shims are missing. Probably the injectors and fuel rails too. (And why is the main bearing cap just lying on the ground?) I'm sure that a whole bucket of fasteners and brackets are missing as well. I suppose if I had another basket case sitting in my garage, I might drop $100 to see if I could match them up and cover the parts I was already missing.
sorry about the lack of updates recently. I killed the sentra engine coming home from work Saturday-pulled water in the intake and stalled it. Going to be trying to get that running tonight. School started up again, so depending on the schedule, I'll be able to do more truck work after class during the week. Can't wait!
Damn that sucks about your sentra, my little brother did the same exact thing on Saturday lol but he has a crx. Its real bad when you suck up water, tends to bend connecting rods.
yeah, so my big brother (and only brother) did that to the sentra about 7 years ago, which was the reason I rebuilt it last holiday season and got it running again. He had tried to start it up afterward, so completely broke one of the rods and nicked the block too. So of course, after that rebuild, I kept putting off cutting the stupid intake "suction" that caused the whole thing in the first place.. and did the same thing again I threw the stupid intake in the trunk Sunday and drove it with window screen material clamped over the tube. haha
In good news, I DROVE it into the school shop yesterday and put a stethoscope up to it. no lower end knocking (phew!) and no valve train noise (phew!). the noise is coming from the variable valve cam ("cam phaser" in Nissan terminology, I think). There was even a code set for it (P1111). I've been trying to research it a bit. I noticed it was louder after the rebuild after I ran it slightly low on oil....(oops) but for some reason after it stalled out, that cam must have locked in full advanced of full retarded position. P1111 has to do with the ECM receiving an incorrect voltage from the cam phaser solenoid valve, so I removed and tested it at the solenoid and at the connector- voltages were all fine, and the solenoid was clearly moving freely. The filter screens were clean, oil level is good (though I suppose I never hooked up an oil pressure gauge to really check what it is). I don't know if there's some way of "oil bleeding" the cam before installing it. Unfortunately, erasing the code didn't "restore" functionality, and the next time I ran the engine, 'misfire cylinder 1' P0301 or something came up instead. :-/ and now I'm reading that ECM grounds in similar vintage and model vehicles like to go bad. I guess it'll be back to probing some terminals later/tomorrow
thoughts?
this post sounds similar to the problem I have, but I don't know what changing out the OCV (oil control valve) plate would do. Need to read more. Now I really wish I didn't need to sleep I've got 2 vehicles down. booooo. rode my manual 7 speed (bicycle) in to school today.
Damn that sucks about your sentra, my little brother did the same exact thing on Saturday lol but he has a crx. Its real bad when you suck up water, tends to bend connecting rods.
did your little brother figure anything out with his CRX? Hope there wasn't any lasting damage!
All I can say is the b15u (sentra) forums are less than helpful- not like Yotatech! People post problems, and then there's just nothing useful. You don't even find out if they've fixed them in the end!
some pictures (but STILL not of the truck.. apologies)
the set up's not as a nice as at school
giant fly eeeee
taking the chop saw to this thing later (sooner than later, actually)
so... ~80mL of sludgy water in ~ 5 qt. oil. sigh...
mmm, what's for dinner? drying out the spark plugs ~ 220F for 30 minutes or so
how we got it started again, in case you're curious.
*disabled fuel pump and injector (pulled fuses), left the spark plugs out, turned the engine over a few times and watched water shoot out the plug holes.
*shot WD-40 down the holes (water dispersant); repeated a few times
*cylinder tops looked dry, so put the plugs back in and tried to crank. sputtered out quickly though. pulled the plugs and looked again. more water in cyl 1 and 4. Tried to "mop" it out with a shop towel attached to a skinny tube. Tried again when dry, but nothing/same result. Was ~ midnight by now so went to bed to think.
*next day, program coordinator came over to have a look. 1 and 4 were still looking wet, but 2 and 3 dry, so stuck plugs in middle two and shot more water out of 1 and 4. THEN all four plugs in and VROOOOOMMM.
steam came out of the tailpipe for a while, and there was that horrible knocking noise that eventually got quieter to a point (oil pressure reached the top parts of the engine). But that's what we pinpointed to the cam phaser/variable valve timing cam with the stethoscope once I limped the poor thing into the shop (not really limped.... tap danced?)
Have a spare cam phaser and ECM to play with tomorrow, so... let's see!
update:
*hard reset (disconnect battery terminals for 30 minutes + and discharged any capacitors by touching the terminals together) didn't change the tapping noise.
*hooked up the scan tool and thoroughly checked idle and 2500 rpm voltages and duty cycles to make sure the intake variable valve solenoid and the ECM were communicating/activating- they were. Data list showed the cam position was shifting the right angle from idle to ~2500 rpm also, so that part of the phaser system is working.
*no one wanted to stay at school to supervise me, so I can't tear into the front cover till Tuesday evening.
*Going to see if the phaser (cam gear) is just loose or if it damaged itself/front cover/stretched timing chain. Anyone want to venture a guess at the likelihood of damage extent?
Dont forget the engine can ingest water and still run after afterwards. On Honda forums Iv seen engines with bent connecting rods still run but make tapping sounds, usually because the connecting rods is hitting the cylinder wall.
Dont forget the engine can ingest water and still run after afterwards. On Honda forums Iv seen engines with bent connecting rods still run but make tapping sounds, usually because the connecting rods is hitting the cylinder wall.
I figured I would have been able to hear bent rod tapping sounds when probing with the stethoscope down below, but the only sound we (I had a number of other instructors come out for a listen because I haven't had my ear to a lot of vehicles yet) could pinpoint was from that phaser....Eventually, I'm going to have to pull #3 piston out and re-ring it, so I'll obviously see what kind of other damage I've done.
those were Salvador Dali-esque connecting rods. :p
Originally Posted by mct75
The lowered compression resulting from bent rods creates the perfect opportunity for forced induction, Honda people do it all the time!
YES! is that making lemonade out of lemons? or just turning a car into a lemon?
well, so the top front cover came off, and it looked like the plastic timing chain guide had gone MIA. I don't think that would really make that big a difference in the noise. and it didn't. The only other things that looked slightly amiss were these oil seals, so I replaced them too. cam phaser oil seals in the front cover that seat in the cam.
that chain guide is the little piece of plastic that might be in the oil pan unless I completely forgot to put it back during the initial rebuild...which is possible.
a little tight in here. not sure how I'm going to take the whole front over off and do all the timing if I take the heads off...The cover was probably just acting as a resonance chamber for whatever is actually click-clacking
what happens when you run the engine whilst the top front cover is off
but after I threw everything back on and made a mess, the clacking sound hadn't changed.
Ran a compression test. results- cylinder...
1 60 psi (no change with wet compression)
2 130 psi
3 130 psi (last time I ran the comp test ~ 600 miles ago, this was low and wet compression test recovered (rings hadn't seated. Guess they seemed fine this time)
4 130 psi
I didn't bother with a leakage test (no one else was in the shop to plug the gauge into the tube while I held the crank). At this point, I think the head's going to come off because I must have bent a valve.
SO.... I'm going to bring my truck heads back home, helicoil them and get the right shims on since shop time at school is limited for me (can't stay without supervision). stay tuned.
edit: going to run a leak-down test tomorrow/thursday and check valve lash with feeler gauges before really taking things apart. Results should provide more conclusive evidence for/against bent valves vs. rod. If the timing cover has to come off though, the oil pan's dropping anyway (nissan engine anatomy requires it).
*leak down tested cylinder 1 (compression tested @ 60psi) and 4 (130psi)
leakdown 1: 13% (acceptable)
leakdown 4: 8-9% (good).
no hissing coming from intake, exhaust, crank case, etc...
*roughly measured stroke of all cylinders (in case of bent rod) by dropping a 1/4" extension down the spark plug hole and manually cranking from TDC to BDC. cylinders...
1 100mm
2 100mm
3 100mm
4 100mm
.... so, the stroke isn't significantly different. what could be affecting compression that much?
I need to check the timing marks. Classmate suggested snaking a borescope down the other side of the timing cover where I can't see to check out the other guide.
scratching my head.
finally, a truck-related picture! some of these from my shop foreman will work nicely.
06-17-2015, 04:15 PM
I threw the stupid intake in the trunk Sunday and drove it with window screen material clamped over the tube. haha
