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interesting idea. I'm going to pick up a roll of tint and try it again NOT standing under the trees that were dripping little drops of sap everywhere :p
pistons are "out for delivery" today. Hope they don't require a signature. That would mean... machine shop monday!
--later that day--
box of goodies
For some reason, I liked the color scheme on the box.
I must be feeling those endorphins right now. ^_^
Last edited by LolaL; 05-16-2015 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: they came!
Hi. Long time Toyota engine builder here. I've built lots of 3vz's and I'll share a few things I've figured out. 1- ALWAYS replace the rod bolts/studs, they stretch if you look close enough you can see it (and they will break). Get them from Toyota for around $3 each, nuts are ok to reuse. 2- always replace the head bolts, they stretch also. 3- don't use the cheap rings that come with your pistons or your engine WILL burn oil. Use Hastings chromoly rings, about $50. 4- Get the block deck surfaced (it might look flat but it's not) 5- use good head gaskets preferably OEM and defently not fel-pro (fail-prone). 6- cheap valve cover gaskets ALWAYS leak. 7- DO NOT use an oil pan gasket, use ultra grey or some other type of quality gasket maker (it will leak). Good luck with your engine it looks like your off to a good start. If you need help with parts or a rebuild kit let me know I'm happy to help. (209)-toyota1 or 209toyota1.com
would you use the rings that came with the NPR pistons? Those are OEM pistons...and rings...
side note: The sentra got chro-moly rings, but unfortunately one of the sets didn't seat properly, so I'm looking at popping that one out once the truck is done. One of my instructors said he saw issues with that in some Toyota engines way back when, and they solved the problem by 'honing' with 1200 grit sand paper: the hone was coarse enough to scrape up the rings and prevent seating.
I'm waiting on my OEM gaskets and head bolts. check on the oil pan gasket. thanks for the tip on the rod studs. I've got my list of Toyota parts to get and hadn't included those. I can't remember if the manual had measurements to check for stretching, but I guess at this point, since I have everything apart, it'd be just as easy to knock them out and put in new ones.
would you use the rings that came with the NPR pistons? Those are OEM pistons...and rings...
side note: The sentra got chro-moly rings, but unfortunately one of the sets didn't seat properly, so I'm looking at popping that one out once the truck is done. One of my instructors said he saw issues with that in some Toyota engines way back when, and they solved the problem by 'honing' with 1200 grit sand paper: the hone was coarse enough to scrape up the rings and prevent seating.
I'm waiting on my OEM gaskets and head bolts. check on the oil pan gasket. thanks for the tip on the rod studs. I've got my list of Toyota parts to get and hadn't included those. I can't remember if the manual had measurements to check for stretching, but I guess at this point, since I have everything apart, it'd be just as easy to knock them out and put in new ones.
I've built hundreds of 22re's and 3vz's I haven't had any problems with NPR Pistons but the rings are NO GOOD. I have seen quite a few "rebuilt" engines that burn 1-2 quarts between oil changes with NPR rings. I wouldn't use em. I'm glad to hear your using OEM gaskets. As for the rod studs they often break when torqued to spec in the vice ( if your gonna resize your rods) And you should. If you are, you can check it out for your self with the old studs. Just tourqe em to spec and watch em snap, It's pretty scary. I use Hastings rings. I've seen them on line for way to much, there really not that expensive I buy from EPW and I think I pay around $40. If the bore finish is not right no rings are gonna hold up. We plateau finish all bores which cleans out the bore and let's oil stay in the groves left by the hone and prevents the rings from premature failure. Don't forget break in oil and not that funky additive.
I've built hundreds of 22re's and 3vz's I haven't had any problems with NPR Pistons but the rings are NO GOOD. I have seen quite a few "rebuilt" engines that burn 1-2 quarts between oil changes with NPR rings. I wouldn't use em. I'm glad to hear your using OEM gaskets. As for the rod studs they often break when torqued to spec in the vice ( if your gonna resize your rods) And you should. If you are, you can check it out for your self with the old studs. Just tourqe em to spec and watch em snap, It's pretty scary. I use Hastings rings. I've seen them on line for way to much, there really not that expensive I buy from EPW and I think I pay around $40. If the bore finish is not right no rings are gonna hold up. We plateau finish all bores which cleans out the bore and let's oil stay in the groves left by the hone and prevents the rings from premature failure. Don't forget break in oil and not that funky additive.
regarding the rods: I'm not resizing them or getting new ones. I also did torque down the nuts to spec when I checked all the oil clearances, and they didn't snap, nor did they feel like they wanted to snap, but I'll price them out and probably pick up some with my Toyota order.
I had to look up what plateau finishing boring was. Then I got sidetracked reading about piston ring and honing evolution. And then I looked up your website. How's the business?
So, with break-in oil, most of them contain zinc and phosphorous and/or "low-friction modifiers" (like ZDDP, zinc dithiophosphate- essentially zinc and phosphorous). Don't those bottles of additives contain concentrated amounts of the same things so you can (supposedly) add them to regular oil (sans friction modifiers) if you wanted to? Actual component information on any of this seems really difficult to locate. It's not even stated on the bottles.
just got a call from the machine shop. the block's done! Wish there were more hours in a day to go pick it up and start working on it. :-/
Nice rings you got there. You will love it when it runs a long with that great excitement. Are you going to use the stock manifold or do you plan to pick up some headers when its all done?
Nice rings you got there. You will love it when it runs a long with that great excitement. Are you going to use the stock manifold or do you plan to pick up some headers when its all done?
no headers ($$). Hopefully I'll get around to that crossover elimination build in a bit.
but for now...
the sentra has a machined V6 in it, haha. Can't say it was thrilled being used to haul.
rings and gaskets came in today. Haven't opened the boxes yet to sort through everything. Might be a while before I get back in to do real work on it, boo.
the timing belt component kit (Aisin TKT014) that I've provided is for a '93+ 3VZE, which I thought i had before I took the engine apart. There's a hydraulic tensioner instead of the older style spring tensioner (which I actually have on the remanned engine). I'm not sure if there are any other differences between the two kits besides that.
couldn't find a part number for the idle air control gasket (no longer available?), might just re-use the old, since it's in 1 piece.
Any ideas what the other seals might belong to? They look familiar, but I can't recall actually removing anything that looked quite like them from the engine (unless they're still attached to the connected parts.
couldn't find a part number for the idle air control gasket (no longer available?), might just re-use the old, since it's in 1 piece.
Any ideas what the other seals might belong to? They look familiar, but I can't recall actually removing anything that looked quite like them from the engine (unless they're still attached to the connected parts.
I know a few of these:
The quarter is for you hurricane dispenser LOL
That idle air sensor goes with your EGR valve to the manifold
And the one on top center looks like one for your oil drain plug which you can get at AutoZone or O'Reilly's
For the other 3 im not familiar with them and your engine so far looks amazing.
^^the quarter's actually for the laundry machine. :p smartass, haha.
I know WHERE the idle air gasket goes; I just don't have a part number for it if I decide to order a new one and replace it.
dang.. it's those three that I don't have a home for.
regarding the rods: I'm not resizing them or getting new ones. I also did torque down the nuts to spec when I checked all the oil clearances, and they didn't snap, nor did they feel like they wanted to snap, but I'll price them out and probably pick up some with my Toyota order.
I had to look up what plateau finishing boring was. Then I got sidetracked reading about piston ring and honing evolution. And then I looked up your website. How's the business?
So, with break-in oil, most of them contain zinc and phosphorous and/or "low-friction modifiers" (like ZDDP, zinc dithiophosphate- essentially zinc and phosphorous). Don't those bottles of additives contain concentrated amounts of the same things so you can (supposedly) add them to regular oil (sans friction modifiers) if you wanted to? Actual component information on any of this seems really difficult to locate. It's not even stated on the bottles.
As for the rod bolts they don't always break but it's very common that they do. If you press them out you can sometimes see that they have stretched and if you measure a new stud you'll see that they have all stretched. For the break in oil I have used the Lucas additive and i suppose it does work but it's $20 plus the cost of the regular oil so even if your buying house brand oil for $4 per qt. that's $40. I sell comp cams break in oil for $7 per qt. so it's cheaper to use real break in oil then trying to add something to detergent oil that could break down the additive I wouldn't do it. And old timer told me "if you have to add something to your oil then your using the wrong oil". Just my too cents good luck with the build.
Business is good were pretty busy, trying to stay on top of engine orders and get all of our products on line. Were adding new product everyday it's a lot of work doing both but we'll get it done eventually. Thanks for asking. Sorry it took so long to reply.
As for the rod bolts they don't always break but it's very common that they do. If you press them out you can sometimes see that they have stretched and if you measure a new stud you'll see that they have all stretched. For the break in oil I have used the Lucas additive and i suppose it does work but it's $20 plus the cost of the regular oil so even if your buying house brand oil for $4 per qt. that's $40. I sell comp cams break in oil for $7 per qt. so it's cheaper to use real break in oil then trying to add something to detergent oil that could break down the additive I wouldn't do it. And old timer told me "if you have to add something to your oil then your using the wrong oil". Just my too cents good luck with the build.
I measured the rod bolts today before reassembling everything. They hadn't stretched too much, so I just reused them. Next time the engine comes apart though...
standard: 0.3034-0.3150"
all measured 0.309-0.310"
Thanks for the info on the break-in oil. I used the Lucas additive for the sentra too, though I think its issue was more the cylinder honing than the oil additives.
I had the machine shop do a "plateau finish" and those are Hastings rings you can't see in the pictures
05-16-2015, 04:27 AM
