greatskiiiier

the manual locking up on the pass side of my truck isnt making a full turn (like a 180* turn) but only about a 20* turn, but it is making a click when it engages and disengages
also when i pop the clutch (on a dirt road) with both hubs disengaged in 2wd the rear tires spin but when i pop it in 4hi and the hubs locked nothing spins it just jumps and i can feel the front pull

is the pass side hub ok or should i be making a full 180* turn?

tried4x2signN

Wat do hubz do again?

myyota

You need to pull that hub and check it out, it probably just need to be cleaned and greased. It needs to turn all the way to the lock position for it to properly lock in. On a side note, if you keep popping the clutch in 4hi your going to eventually break something, its your truck so you can do what you want to it, its just a word of warning.

greatskiiiier

lol, i did that before i bought it (a week ago) so make sure the 4wd was functioning, guess ill be rebuilding the hubs but like i said, it worked the way its suppose to, just didnt turn the full 180*

myyota

It would probably work the way it is, but if the hub is not fully locked then you risk breaking the hub gear because its not fully engaged.

iamsuperbleeder

I'm willing to bet that the hub isn't fully disengaging when it's in the unlocked position

I had a similar occurrence on my 91. Sometime in the past before I bought it, the hubs were taken off, and reinstalled incorrectly. This cause them to be about 75% fully engaged when, according to the dial, they should have been unlocked. They would only turn about 20 degrees or so like you said, you'd hear, and feel, a solid click. But it didn't make a difference; they were locked all the time. I drove like that for about a year and a half after buying the truck, and it destroyed both of my inner CV boots because the shafts were turing all the time.

I made a thread about it many moons ago, and went thru the entire process of the teardown and rebuild of the hubs, and I even had a video showing the same symptom you're talking about, but I think I've taken it off youtube since then; I'll have a look-see and find out.


In the mean time, jack your front passenger side tire off the ground, put the hub in the unlocked position, and give the tire a spin and watch your CV shaft; I'll bet you it's turning with the tire (which obviously it's not supposed to do when the hub is unlocked)

iamsuperbleeder

It wasn't on my youtube anymore, BUT, luckily, I never delete any files on my computer so I just re-uploaded it



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2rr5So9d5A

greatskiiiier

thats exactly what mine does, ill jack it up tomorrow, how do i check for wear of the cv boots?

clydehatchet

do the boots seem to have cracks, or are the boots broken? other wise you would have to have a noise when turning and you have eliminated all other possibilities.

4x4jeffyota

i have a quick question, I am in the process of rebuilding my driver side hub and i have 10mm bolts and the piece the bolts hold off but I cant get the rest of the hub off. I have all the 12mm bold off but I cant get the hub off. Any suggestions? And sorry for thread jacking man, I cant find any answers.

iamsuperbleeder

have you removed the cone washers?

if not, search "cone washers", and you'll find all the info you need



I know for a fact that there's several good write-ups for rebuilding hubs on YotaTech alone

4x4jeffyota

ok thanks man, i'll search cone washers

tried4x2signN

No, all you have to do is remove the dial!


That's where it's boogered...

IIRC, the spring is sprung (dial will shoot off when the last bolts are turned) and ppl put it back in like that...

To do it right, (dial in left hand, lock ring in right, spring in the middle. Dial/spring/ring) you push the spring in with the locking ring and turn it until it rides up and locks the spring, compressed, in.

Then bolt the dial back on.

IIRC...

mt_goat

Here's some links that helped me rebuild mine:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...volved-127956/

iamsuperbleeder

right; to fix the issue the OP is having (and like I showed in my video), all you have to really do is remove the face and dial, put the dial in the full FREE position, and reinstall it right

BUT

the only reason I went ahead and did a complete tare down and rebuilt is because if they were able to screw up installing the dial, who knows WHAT else they did inside the hub or the bearings...


that's what I referenced the first time I tore my hubs apart

greatskiiiier

well you guys answered my second question of what do to to fix the issue lol

4x4jeffyota

i took my dial apart earlier and there was no little ball and spring, so i ordered a new set and a new o-ring from marlin crawler

greatskiiiier

literally, the easiest job ive ever done... didnt see a ball and spring but i only took out the 6 bolts, pushed the large spring in and turned the whole dial until it sat compressed, put it back on, and everything worked as it should

iamsuperbleeder

you wont see the little ball and spring unless you remove the c-clip from behind and separate the dial from the face






good job on the fix!

4x4jeffyota

I installed the little ball, a new little spring and a new O ring and now my 4wd works but now it wont lock out. The dial stops right before the locked position. I lifted the front wheels off the ground and with the driver side hub in the free position the CV still spun. I guess I'll have to tear it apart AGAIN, haha. Maybe next week, im tired of working on it.