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Old 07-01-2007, 06:30 AM
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locker options

i have an 89 toyota pickup v6 auto...it has bad axle seals in the rear and when i replace those in the near future i will probably be looking in to lockers. what are my options....whats should i look for...i don't have the $ to spend on air lockers or e lockers the only way i would get an elocker is if i swapped and trd axle out of a newer taco...would that work? if i swap gear rations to match? how about spools how harsh are they for daily driving as appossed to a lockrite...is a lockrite worth the money...thanks guys
Old 07-01-2007, 06:40 AM
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I would not use a spool for daily driving.

You are looking at a lockright, aussie, etc.

Last edited by rworegon; 11-23-2014 at 05:46 PM.
Old 07-01-2007, 07:30 AM
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i don't really want the clanking and clunking that come with a lockrite though...
Old 07-01-2007, 08:29 AM
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If you don't like clanking or clunking, you can spool it like you suggested, and then you can deal with chirping and wheel hop.
Old 07-01-2007, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 89red4x4yota
i don't really want the clanking and clunking that come with a lockrite though...
You have conflicting requirements......

You won't get an auto locker that doesn't behave somewhat badly on road.
You don't tell us what you're driving, transmision wise, however if you have an auto tranny and don't drive like a moronic, testosteronized 16 year old, then a lunchbox style (Lockrite, etc) locker may be ok for you.

Manual lockers (ARB, E-Locker, etc), of course, are the ideal setup.

What type of wheeling do you do and where do you wheel ?
From your avaitor, it looks like nothing really even requiring 4wd.
If your wheeling is mild and you feel that you must "lock", perhaps consider a LSD (Eaton, etc.), or forget locking the rear and drop a lunchbox style in the front diff.





Fred

Last edited by FredTJ; 07-01-2007 at 09:11 AM.
Old 07-01-2007, 01:17 PM
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first sentence of my first post...89 pickup v6 with an auto...the reason why i am thinking about locking the rear end is because i will be pulling the axles to do my seals and i will be locking it anyway in the future anyway...my buddy just got a lockright and he says they are not worth the money and would rather just weld the rear or spool it and it is his daily driver
Old 07-01-2007, 01:32 PM
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Personally, I wouldn't waste the money on a lockright or anything else that is the price equivalent. Seaflea on here busted his lockright twice and finally returned it luckily so he could upgrade to an ARB. I know others who have wasted money on lockrights etc. only to wish they had spend the money for a good reputable locker. Spend the money and buy a locker...once.

Old 07-01-2007, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Personally, I wouldn't waste the money on a lockright or anything else that is the price equivalent. Seaflea on here busted his lockright twice and finally returned it luckily so he could upgrade to an ARB. I know others who have wasted money on lockrights etc. only to wish they had spend the money for a good reputable locker. Spend the money and buy a locker...once.

Actually for the type of wheel'n that he is like to do (and a lot of others here) a LockRite will perform quite well and last a fair amount of time.
Just make sure that you get the hardened cross pin with it.

LockRites are used out here in some really pretty heavy duty rocks and some people have 35's with them.
Driven correctly, they do fine and it's actually pretty rare to break one.
They do wear out, but break, nah.
Now, wheel hopping, that's an entirely different story.

For the real heavy stuff a "full case" locker is required, a Detroit, for instance as an example of an auto lock, or an ARB as an example of a manual locker.





Fred
Old 07-01-2007, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 89red4x4yota
first sentence of my first post...89 pickup v6 with an auto...the reason why i am thinking about locking the rear end is because i will be pulling the axles to do my seals and i will be locking it anyway in the future anyway...my buddy just got a lockright and he says they are not worth the money and would rather just weld the rear or spool it and it is his daily driver

Not worth it why ?
Your buddy is what we call a "booty fabber"

The locker will at least unlock going around turns, etc., prolonging the life of the tires.

With an auto tranny, the auto lockers (like the Lockrite) have a lot better on road manners than those running manual trannies.
Auto trannies are just so much easier on the drivetrain.





Fred
Old 07-01-2007, 01:57 PM
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You might also look at POSI or Limited Slip Differentials.

Replacing the OEM differential case is highly suggested in my book. IMO its worth the extra $ to buy a differential replacing locker, not a 'lunchbox' locker. I have the detroit truetrac. It's fine if you're a light-offroad enthusiast. It's far superior to an open differential but its a full replacement so its not exactly cheap.

Spooling or welding the dif is a bad idea for anyone I think. ESPECIALLY if you want to drive it on the road. I had a friend almost die after his wonderful welding job failed on the freeway. The result was the rear end locking up. Thats like pulling the e-brake at 70mph! ... not fun

Anyways, wait a few more months, save the extra hundred and a get a Detroit (autolocker)
Old 07-01-2007, 03:00 PM
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I think that the responders to this post have missed the point a bit.

This is a case of "I want offroad performance for as little money as possible."

What he wants to hear isn't advice, but rather reassurance that his idea of weld or spool is going to work.

We have forgotten that we cannot allow facts to get in the way of internet hooplah.

The answer is, yes, it will work. It will hop around corners, and will be harsh on your gears and axles, but if you drive carefully, and don't mind the hop and chirp, you will be fine. There is always the possiblity of dying, but really, that could happen anyday on the road regardless.

Offroad, you will be happy with it. Weld vs spool is just a matter of preference. Spools are obviously a little more money, but as stated, welded diff's can come apart if not done properly. If you weld it, research on Pirate a bit, and make sure its done properly. No money down.

Last edited by AxleIke; 07-01-2007 at 03:01 PM.
Old 07-01-2007, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by FredTJ
Actually for the type of wheel'n that he is like to do (and a lot of others here) a LockRite will perform quite well and last a fair amount of time.
Just make sure that you get the hardened cross pin with it.

LockRites are used out here in some really pretty heavy duty rocks and some people have 35's with them.
Driven correctly, they do fine and it's actually pretty rare to break one.
They do wear out, but break, nah.
Now, wheel hopping, that's an entirely different story.

For the real heavy stuff a "full case" locker is required, a Detroit, for instance as an example of an auto lock, or an ARB as an example of a manual locker.





Fred
Lockrites are not made for anything larger than 31" tires...and yes, they do break. Seen it numerous times.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...24/index4.html
Originally Posted by TachedOutOffRoad
If you wheel hard, do not buy a Lock-Rite .
I am very adament about this.
I have personally broken three of them and have seen at least two more break. The last time I tore down my front end I went ahead and welded up a LockRite so that it wouldnt break on me on the trail.

Is it better off road that open diffs? Yes, just like a ratchet strap is on a battery is. Its an accident waiting to happen.

If you have a DD and want traction on the weekends, go for it. If you have a trailer queen with one, just let me know what trails that you will be on so that I won't be there and have to let you borrow my extra 3rd member and tools

If you are serious about it, save up for a Detroit or be a cheap ass and weld it.
Old 07-01-2007, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Lockrites are not made for anything larger than 31" tires...and yes, they do break. Seen it numerous times.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...24/index4.html


They may not be made for anything larger than 31" tires, but they, like the Warn Hubs (for TJ's which also aren't made for anything larger than 31's) are used by a lot of people out here in the SW in big rocks (rockcrawling).
Granted, most people using Lockrites are running 33's, but a lot run 35's.
Most running 35's (and, in fact really take the vehicle where 35's are needed) have the sense to use a locker that's really up to it.
None the less, the Lockrite is a viable option for someone on a budget, that want's to lock and has the sense to know that a spool or welded diff, isn't the answer if the vehicle is a DD.
To Lockrite's break ?
Yup.
Do Detroits break ?
Yup.
Do ARB's break ?
Yup.



Anyway, his "best" choice would be an auto locker of choice.
Will the Lockrite work for him ?
Most likely.
Are his chances of breaking it more than a full case type locker, either manual or auto locker... Maybe not, as I'ld bet he's not a "heavy wheeler" based on the vehicle and how it's setup.

FWIW, I've seen more Detroits break myself than Lockrites.
That's probably due to at least two reasons.
The people that I know out here with Lockrites always make sure that they get the hardened cross pin (and yes, one has to check, they still seem to come without it sometimes) and, where we wheel, most running the "bigger" stuff are running 35's and "bigger" lockers.

Regardless, I would much more recommend a Lockrite for him (assuming a DD) than a spool or welded diff, especially since he's running an auto tranny which is much easier on the driveling


Fred
Old 07-01-2007, 03:37 PM
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My bad...I forgot...Fred is always right.

Old 07-01-2007, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
My bad...I forgot...Fred is always right.

Nop, my bad. I forgat 'dat Waskillywabbit is always right


Two opinions, simply.

You break 'em or see a lot of 'em break.

We (wheel in the big, big rocks) don't break 'em or seldom see them break.

Difference is probably wheelspin/driverskill (or lack of) and type of terrain.

One would think that big rocks would break them, but, the crowd that we wheel with uses finesse over right pedal to the floor to get over.

That's one of the main reasons we run with a small crowd of people we know and aren't driven by testosterone

Other than that I can't explain why the difference is experiences with them.

Seach through some of my other post and you'll find pictures of use wheeling in the big stuff. Some are running Lockrites. Some of the earlier photos of my vehicle are when I was running Lockrites and later ones are the vehicle on Detroits.

BTW, running most any manual locker in the front, in the big, big stuff, can really cause a problem if a u-joint, cv joint, birf, whatever breaks.
That'll, often, destroy the locker (auto type, either lunchbox or full carrier).

At any rate, as I've already said, he's (pretty obviously) isn't doing anything (offroad wise) serious, so the Lockrite will, most likely, serve him well IMHO.
I've already asked him what type of wheeling that he does and he didn't respond.
He's gotta replace his axle seals, but he's not re-gearing (obviously no $$$$) so that sorta says he's not, at least in the relatively near future, planning on anything big, off road wise. Not re-gearing, means not bigger tires, means nothing too big 4 wheeling. Also lack of $$$$$ also says nothing too big off road wise

So he asked about his options, then said that he wouldn't like the "stuff" that he's probably heard about auto lockers, but doesn't have the bucks for a manual locker.
His choices seem to be:
- Lunchbox style auto locker.
- Spool or welded diff.
- LSD
- nothing.




Fred
Old 07-01-2007, 04:50 PM
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Just spool it! I am running a Yukon full spool in my daily driver right now. I get the tire chirps in the parking lot, but it is not a big deal. On the highway you can't tell the difference between a truck that is spool'd or open in the rear. On wet roads I have yet to have any problems with spinning out or loosing any traction for that matter. Of course your tires will wear a little quicker, but to me that is just a small price to pay for knowing I have the strongest and most durable type of locker. Now if you are going to weld it do it right the first time.
Old 07-01-2007, 04:52 PM
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ok thanks for the replies guys i would never weld my rear diff my question was should i get a lockrite or spool both have their pros and cons this is my DD and weekend warrior i could not afford an e locker or air locker because i am a college student even a detroit is a bit on the high side...i figure a spool or lockrite is better then open so while im tearing the axle apart i should look into it. maybe this might help please let me know if i am getting my question across
Old 07-01-2007, 05:09 PM
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Well if you are worried about price then you should definitely go with the Lock Right if you do not want to weld your spider gears. This is because a full spool requires the gears to be set up again. Which would probably cost around $200 or so. With a Lock Right you could do it yourself in a day.
Old 07-01-2007, 06:12 PM
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I have 33 swampers and a lockright,no problem.But it does wear the rear tires faster.My only complaint is increased speed in tight turns in low range(due to the tire cannot turn slower than the ring gear).As for wearing out the locker;I'll buy another one just like it!
Old 07-01-2007, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaleb
Just spool it! I am running a Yukon full spool in my daily driver right now. I get the tire chirps in the parking lot, but it is not a big deal.
Glad to hear my old spool is getting used, and that you don't find it too much hassle for your daily driver.


My trail rig currently (and temporarily) has a welded rear, and I drive it to and from the trails. No problems. I had a Lock Right in it when it was a daily driver, and then I swapped it out with a spool once it was a dedicated trail rig. I recently sold my 3rd member to Kaleb 'cause I went from 4.10s to 5.29s, and it seems he likes it as much as I did. I prefer the predictability of the spool over the Lock Right.


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