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Lock front or rear first?

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Old 02-21-2008, 09:16 PM
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Lock front or rear first?

i need to lock one of my axles in my 88 4runner 22re which axle would you lock and would you lock it or weld it
Old 02-21-2008, 09:17 PM
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weld the rear and lock the front.weld is cheap and reliable and u will still have the money to lock the front.
Old 02-21-2008, 09:19 PM
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make sure the person who welds the rear is a good welder good penetration is a must.
Old 02-21-2008, 09:23 PM
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cool i have a good person to weld that is what i will do then this is great everybody said stay away from welding but i do have two rear axles so it does not matter if i tear one up. i will lock the next one if i tear it up
thanks for the input
Old 02-21-2008, 09:34 PM
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i ran weld for years and had no troubles.if it braeks u can still use ur rear u replace everything u welded with a locker anyways all u r doing is welding the spiders.if u look in the tough truck challenge half those guys r welded.like i said a good welder and lots of penetration and u will be going more places in 2 wheel drive than u went in 4x4.and with the money u saved u can lock the front or go to costco and get a winch.
Old 02-21-2008, 09:37 PM
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thanks
Old 02-22-2008, 05:21 AM
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Are you planning to SAS your truck in the future?
I would say Lincoln lock the back and wait on the front.
Or buy a locker for the back and when you SAS it, put the locker in the front and weld the rear then. Resale on IFS lockers can't be that good.
Just my $.02
Old 02-22-2008, 06:03 AM
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OK, let's all step back a minute before making rash suggestions ...

First, how do you use the truck? If it sees much time on pavement at all, and you can't afford a locker, you CERTAINLY can't afford the extra tire wear a welded diff will cause on the street. Why do you want/need a locker?

Second, what's your budget?

IMHO, locking the front of IFS makes a bigger difference, but also has more drawbacks. The downside is exaggerated the cheaper you go. SO, if you have the money, I would do an ARB in the front first, but if you don't, I would put what you can afford in the rear diff.
Old 02-22-2008, 06:08 AM
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^+1. Is this your daily driver? Where/how & how much do you wheel?
Old 02-22-2008, 06:12 AM
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I welded the rear of my '84 and will be locking the front soon, but its a trail rig, and sees very limited street use between trails.
Old 02-22-2008, 07:25 AM
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my 4runner does not see much road time i trailor it to the trails.
Old 02-22-2008, 07:27 AM
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I always recommend locking the rear first.

I would wait to lock the front until you can afford a selectable locker.

Being behind a truck with a permanently locked or welded front on tight trails isnt fun. I cant imagine driving it would be either
Old 02-22-2008, 07:27 AM
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i would do an sas but i cannot find the parts to doit with but i am still looking for a solid axle truck it is like looking for a needle in a hay stack around i am having to compete with samurais the buy them up
Old 02-22-2008, 07:32 AM
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Nah, just weld everything. What you really need to do is the following:

Weld both diffs
weld the transfercase and transmission
weld the driveshafts

put on a solid axle, use any solid axle, it doesn't need to be toyota, it could be a d60, or a toyota rear. be sure to weld the steering box gears, don't want those to differentiate at all

get all solid axle parts from the junk yard, DO NOT, under any circumstances, put any money into the axle. Just buy it, weld the diff, and put it on. weld the axles in place. This will prevent them from breaking

6"-12" lift blocks are the best possible way to lift both the front and the rear. Be certain to weld them to both the springs, and the axle. Don't want them coming out. You don't need shocks at all, total conspiracy. They just want you to spend more money.

Now, you should be able to put on 40's or 44's. Do it. Whatever you do, DO NOT regear. Waste of time. Only fools who believe internet hype actually regear.

Now, with all that, you will need more power. No need to worry about the engine, just get rid of weight. Ditch the entire interior, seats, seatbelts, dash, heater, radio, windshield, all of it. Use a sawzall, and cut the roof, and sides off, leaving just the fenders in place, to keep it legal. Use lawn chairs and ratchet straps to hold yourself in place.

With that, you should have no trouble getting around town, or doing 75 on the highway. you will be completely safe, and with your welded diffs, tranny, xcase, and drivelines, you should have zero problems off road.

Good luck!
Old 02-22-2008, 07:38 AM
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isnt that what youre doing with your SAS corolla isaac? haha.
Old 02-22-2008, 07:42 AM
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Thats exactly what I'm doing with the corolla. Its turning out great.
Old 02-22-2008, 08:26 AM
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I just sprayed coffee...again.

Thanks, Isaac.
Old 02-22-2008, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by kswann
i need to lock one of my axles in my 88 4runner 22re which axle would you lock and would you lock it or weld it
Only weld if you do most of your driving off road. It wears tires fast. Otherwise, it kicks arse off road as does a locker.

Just curious, have you read up here on the various lockers? Your post doesn't really say what type of wheeling or street driving you do, mix of both, snowy roads, etc... so it's really hard to make a good recommendation.

Frank
Old 02-25-2008, 03:22 AM
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This isn't a YotaTech-friendly mod,
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
Old 02-25-2008, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by nix4x4
This isn't a YotaTech-friendly mod,
but I have been considering a spool in the front diff.
Once I get my twin stick, and with my manual locking hubs,
I don't see any issues I would come across. I'll then save up for
a rear locker, cause I sure don't want power to both rear wheels
at all times. Can't afford tires every six months, ya know?
An issue would be that you won't be able to steer. A twin stick will do nothing for you, so don't waste the money. In order to make tight turns, or turn AT ALL on with traction, even in dirt, you will have to get out, unlock a hub, make the turn, then get out, and re lock the hub.

Spend the extra 100 bucks and get an aussie or lockrite.


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