Lifted truck, now brakes suck
08-04-2011, 09:11 PM
#1
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Lifted truck, now brakes suck
I installed a pair of OME rear coils tonight. Now when I step on the brakes, I really need to stomp them for the truck to stop, where-as before the brakes where super sensitive. Does something need adjusting? I saw the adjuster on the rear diff but no idea how it works... or if it even does. My ABS light is also now on... most likely I pinched a wire.
1992 runner.
1992 runner.
08-04-2011, 09:21 PM
#2
You need to add a bracket for your proportioning valve.
It looks like this...
Just compare your suspension to mine. The pan hard rod is lifted up...You don't need to lift that high. The brass piece above the pan hard bar is what you need....again..not that high. I have way more lift that you do so....
Oh, you may need to extend your brake line as well.
It looks like this...
Just compare your suspension to mine. The pan hard rod is lifted up...You don't need to lift that high. The brass piece above the pan hard bar is what you need....again..not that high. I have way more lift that you do so....
Oh, you may need to extend your brake line as well.
08-04-2011, 09:27 PM
#3
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The adjuster you saw is most likely your LSPV (load sensing purportioning valve). The LSPV senses the payload in the rear of your truck and automatically adjusts the amount of stopping power applied to the rear brakes to avoid locking up the rear end when the truck is unloaded. By lifting your truck you have most likely told the LSPV that there is no weight in the rear end, therefore braking force to the rear brakes is reduced. Many lift kits come with a bracket that is used to raise the end of the arm that extends to the rear axle the same distance as the lift, this returns the LSPV to its regular specs.
I guess I type too slow.
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08-05-2011, 07:41 AM
#9
x2 on the turnbuckle setup, I used the turn buckle setup for many, many years:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
We make custom length LSPV brkts. if you want to go that route:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
We make custom length LSPV brkts. if you want to go that route:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket
Last edited by 4Crawler; 08-06-2011 at 05:57 AM.
08-05-2011, 08:35 AM
#10
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Another option here. This is a quote from one of the posts in my build thread:
On the brake issue, if you want to get tid of the proportioning valve at the rear of the vehicle and only have to run one line back to your rear brakes, I have a solution for you...at least this is what I did and my brakes have not given me a minutes problem in 7years.
Any vehicle that has disk brakes in the front and drum brakes in the rear has some type of proportioning valve to limit the amount of brake fluid and the pressure to the rear brakes so that your front disks still do the majority of the braking and the rear drums don't lock up.
When I built my truck a used an 88 Cressida as a donor for my 5m-ge engine. I had the complete car. The cressida had factory front and rear disk brakes, but they were of course smaller than my truck, but the cressida had a factory proportioning valve mounted below the master cylinder. I took the 15/16 bore master cylinder and proportioning valve and mounted it in my truck. The master cylinder bolted to my truck booster and I used the factory cressida brake lines that connected the proportioning valve to the master cylinder, fab'd a bracket for the proportioning valve and mounted it to the drivers inner fender. On the passengers side I swapped the fittings mounted to the frame with to "L" fittings (I think these were Cresida as well, or one might have been the trucks front fitting and the other was a cressida fitting, I'm trying to remember back 7 years and most of the time I don't remember yesterday!). I made 2 new pipes from the master across the firewall to the "L" fittings one line went to the passengers front caliper, the other went to the rear flex hose above the rearend. Nice and neat, no more rear valve and the very best of brakes. I installed a rear transfer case brake 7 years ago and I'll be doing a complete rebuild on my pick-up later this summer, with toyota rear disks. I'm going to keep this setup and see how the cressida proportioning valve works with front and rear disks on my truck. I think it will be great, after all that is the system that it was designed for. I'm enjoying your built keep it up.
Any vehicle that has disk brakes in the front and drum brakes in the rear has some type of proportioning valve to limit the amount of brake fluid and the pressure to the rear brakes so that your front disks still do the majority of the braking and the rear drums don't lock up.
When I built my truck a used an 88 Cressida as a donor for my 5m-ge engine. I had the complete car. The cressida had factory front and rear disk brakes, but they were of course smaller than my truck, but the cressida had a factory proportioning valve mounted below the master cylinder. I took the 15/16 bore master cylinder and proportioning valve and mounted it in my truck. The master cylinder bolted to my truck booster and I used the factory cressida brake lines that connected the proportioning valve to the master cylinder, fab'd a bracket for the proportioning valve and mounted it to the drivers inner fender. On the passengers side I swapped the fittings mounted to the frame with to "L" fittings (I think these were Cresida as well, or one might have been the trucks front fitting and the other was a cressida fitting, I'm trying to remember back 7 years and most of the time I don't remember yesterday!). I made 2 new pipes from the master across the firewall to the "L" fittings one line went to the passengers front caliper, the other went to the rear flex hose above the rearend. Nice and neat, no more rear valve and the very best of brakes. I installed a rear transfer case brake 7 years ago and I'll be doing a complete rebuild on my pick-up later this summer, with toyota rear disks. I'm going to keep this setup and see how the cressida proportioning valve works with front and rear disks on my truck. I think it will be great, after all that is the system that it was designed for. I'm enjoying your built keep it up.
Last edited by Dutchbelly; 08-05-2011 at 08:37 AM.
08-06-2011, 05:30 AM
#11
I used the turn buckle setup for many, many years:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
We make custom length LSPV brkts. if you want to go that route:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
We make custom length LSPV brkts. if you want to go that route:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#LSPV_Bracket
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