Lift questions
#1
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Lift questions
I am looking to put a 2-3 inch life on my yota. I was lookin at some ome rear spings that give 3 Inches of lift and was wondering if im gonna have to extend my brake lines. And for the front i was gonna get the 2.5 bj spacers. Will i need to get a Dif drop to use these or extend the brake lines? How have the ome srpings worked out for other people? are they stiff? And also what would be a good setup for my shocks? there are so many choises some input would be nice. i Mostly wheel in the mud and on rocky atv trails. thanks in advance
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With the rear, I'm not saying you have to, but I recommend replacing the factory rubber brake hose with braided. Also, relocate the bracket at the end of the lever (at your axle) from the load sensing valve as appropriate for your lift.
I also recommend replacing the front brake lines with braided lines as well. You can get extended lines and tie the excess out of the way until you need it.
For the front, a diff drop isn't required for the BJ spacers, but you have to make sure that your arms don't droop too far, and may require shimming the stops underneath the upper control arms to ensure this.
If you really want the travel, check into the total chaos long travel kits. They are expensive though.
I also recommend replacing the front brake lines with braided lines as well. You can get extended lines and tie the excess out of the way until you need it.
For the front, a diff drop isn't required for the BJ spacers, but you have to make sure that your arms don't droop too far, and may require shimming the stops underneath the upper control arms to ensure this.
If you really want the travel, check into the total chaos long travel kits. They are expensive though.
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-05-2008 at 06:24 PM.
#3
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Ya im tryin to keep the total cost minus the tires under 1200 and i dont wanna have to take the front end all apart thats why im goin with the bj spacers. any ideas on good shocks? And im sorry but what does shimming mean? trimming?
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With the balljoint spacers, the lower arm and steering knuckle, along with the wheel end of the front drive shafts/axles are pushed farher down than normal. If you look under the upper control arms, there are bumpers that keep the arm from going too far down. You may have to put washers or some other spacer under those bumpers so that the front CV joints don't get flexed too tightly and bind or break. Look here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
#6
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Alrighty then...Couple of things.
2.5" Ball Joint spacers will give you issues with your CV's even with a diff drop. However, I'm pretty sure you'd have to custom order them anyway. SDORI spacers are 1.5", and they are the standard ones.
OME springs are good springs. Lots better than the downey's. Not anywhere near as good as Alcan. You get what you pay for.
Keep in mind that this will not give you room for bigger tires if you plan to wheel it. You will need to bash the pinchweld flat if you do this and plan to run 33x10.50's. 33x12.50's will rub without more pounding.
with 1.5" spacers, you will not need to shim the bumpstops. with 2.5", you will have to shim it so much as to eliminate almost all down travel.
2.5" Ball Joint spacers will give you issues with your CV's even with a diff drop. However, I'm pretty sure you'd have to custom order them anyway. SDORI spacers are 1.5", and they are the standard ones.
OME springs are good springs. Lots better than the downey's. Not anywhere near as good as Alcan. You get what you pay for.
Keep in mind that this will not give you room for bigger tires if you plan to wheel it. You will need to bash the pinchweld flat if you do this and plan to run 33x10.50's. 33x12.50's will rub without more pounding.
with 1.5" spacers, you will not need to shim the bumpstops. with 2.5", you will have to shim it so much as to eliminate almost all down travel.
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You'll see, on each side, a control arm on top and one on bottom of the wheel. You'll also see 'bumpers' or 'stops', one below the top arm and one above the bottom arm. It's the one near the top arm that needs spacers between it and the frame so it limits how far 'down' the top arm goes.
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#9
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1.5" ball joint spacers will not bind your CV's.
We do not make them thicker than 1.5" and do not recommend anyone use spacers that thick because they will run the risk of binding CV's.
Where were you going to get 2.5" spacers?
Frank
We do not make them thicker than 1.5" and do not recommend anyone use spacers that thick because they will run the risk of binding CV's.
Where were you going to get 2.5" spacers?
Frank
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i was gonna get 2.5 inch but if that will bind the cv's ill go down to a 1.5. Any one wanna help me out with what shocks to use. i dont wanna spend more than 250 for all 4
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I just checked out your site and it answers my question about the shocks. i was thinkin about the procomp 3000 es shocks anyway so i guess i will go with those. what do ur bj spacers go for? do they come with the new bolts i will need?
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1.5" bj spacers and a slight torsion crank would give you 2.5 up front. On the runner its decieving as the rear wheel arches are smaller than the fronts so even when lifted equally the rear still looks to be sagged. trucks are similar in wheel wells also.
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- 31x10.50" will fit stock, if you lift your truck it will look a little silly
- Go with some procomp es3000 spec'd for 0-2" of lift, yes they do make them.
- When you lift your rear make sure you make a lift bracket for your LSPV. Its the bend rod going from your axle (drivers side) to your frame (passenger side) Space it up however many inches you lifted your truck (over stock).
If you don't do this, you will lose much of your rear breaking power.
- I am running 1.5" bj spacers with: No diff drop, stock replacment brake lines and no shims. NO problems at full droop or full stuff (aside from rubbing )
- When you lift the front end of your truck, keep an eye on your steering componants. They will have a tendency to wear faster, the idler arm tends to do this most. Remove and rebuild it, consider buying a brace.
- Go with some procomp es3000 spec'd for 0-2" of lift, yes they do make them.
- When you lift your rear make sure you make a lift bracket for your LSPV. Its the bend rod going from your axle (drivers side) to your frame (passenger side) Space it up however many inches you lifted your truck (over stock).
If you don't do this, you will lose much of your rear breaking power.
- I am running 1.5" bj spacers with: No diff drop, stock replacment brake lines and no shims. NO problems at full droop or full stuff (aside from rubbing )
- When you lift the front end of your truck, keep an eye on your steering componants. They will have a tendency to wear faster, the idler arm tends to do this most. Remove and rebuild it, consider buying a brace.
#15
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Thanks everyone for the advise. Elripster ive been reading on other forums and here and everyone has nothing but good things to say about sdori bj spacers so i think youll be getting my buisness when the time comes. does anyone know how the pro comp 3000 shocks and ome springs ride?
#16
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Good to hear! Just FYI, should you be in the market for spacers and shocks, check out the vendors on our home page. They package our stuff into complete kits which really makes the lift process much more simple. Everything fits together.
Frank
Frank
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