Lets see your 22re intakes.
03-27-2007, 07:53 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Huntsville, TX
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-27-2007, 12:32 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rio Rancho NM
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have an idea that i am currently working on i will get some pics and post them hopefully tonight. basicly what i am doing isa battery/inake box flip which i got the idea from bob_98sr5 from this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130/22re-engine-performance-mods-75172/ i did searches prior to starting this but found no write ups on it so as of right now i am going at it blind and figuring it out as i go.
03-27-2007, 12:38 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: fl
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea. all the switch in possition rly does is cools ur air a little and shortens the path. possibly the next time i get a break in driving, aka never but hopefully soon, i may look towards a switch and such for that. until then anybody else have some ideas? btw, snitt u said u had an idea, so does that mean ur going to share? lol
03-27-2007, 01:03 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Huntsville, TX
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gixxer, thinking about that one myself. If you do let us know how difficult it was. I've moved batteries to the trunk on race cars. But this seems different.
Trending Topics
03-27-2007, 01:37 PM
#8
Registered User
I think that rerouting the intake is a really good idea. I've measured regular intake temperatures with 70 degrees ambient that are in the 100-120degree range at the manifold. No turbo. A cold air intake setup - maybe even decreasing the run of the intake, which *might* decrease the pre-heating could result in some very real power gains.
03-27-2007, 03:12 PM
#10
Contributing Member
these are pretty sweet http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...A-46E12D5DB437
03-27-2007, 03:41 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sure someone has done it before, but I havn't seen it, so I'll throw it out there:
If you can find an 85 Celica at a junkyard, scrounge in intake. The Celicas with a 22RE came with a better laid out engine compartment, they had their(much shorter) intake on the passenger side and used a round filter that was mounted parralel to the door on the AFM.
There were 2 or 3 85 Celicas at Pick-n-pull(Calgary) the last time I was there. So it might not be that hard to find.
If you can find an 85 Celica at a junkyard, scrounge in intake. The Celicas with a 22RE came with a better laid out engine compartment, they had their(much shorter) intake on the passenger side and used a round filter that was mounted parralel to the door on the AFM.
There were 2 or 3 85 Celicas at Pick-n-pull(Calgary) the last time I was there. So it might not be that hard to find.
Last edited by Bill; 03-27-2007 at 03:42 PM.
03-27-2007, 06:18 PM
#12
Contributing Member
Here ya guys go. We just finished our intake on the pickup, my hands are still dirty even. Its funny that this thread was posted on the same day we were going to do our intake AND the battery/intake swap was mentioned because thats what we did...
See the thread here.
See the thread here.
03-28-2007, 06:19 AM
#13
Registered User
This is Before it was powder coated 3" Exhaust pipe.
(Not Showen Rubber Gaskets Clamps to connect it the intake and throttle body)
The K&N Cone filter is where it belongs THE TRASH CAN. (sucks to much water and mud, and HOT ENGINE bay air.
(Not Showen Rubber Gaskets Clamps to connect it the intake and throttle body)
The K&N Cone filter is where it belongs THE TRASH CAN. (sucks to much water and mud, and HOT ENGINE bay air.
03-28-2007, 06:49 AM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cleveland,Tn
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I was going to wait till I did it but here ya go...
It's just a rough draft. I don't want the filter to be near the front end because of fear of water ingestion I want it push bach towards the rear.I'll use some pvc ran from the front to guide cold air to it.
03-28-2007, 07:11 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Personally if your worried about getting water into your engine, I wouldn't run an open element filter. I'd run a snorkel.
03-28-2007, 07:16 AM
#16
Registered User
Do you think those bends are going to be efficient at moving air? Most of us try and get the air as unrestrictive as possible, hence the Elbow Mod, and ISR removal mod.
On mine I left it where it is but removed the S shaped pipe that goes between the air box and the cover behind the headlight. I then cut a 4"x4" opening in the airbox where the S pipe used to be and cut the cover behind the headlight to allow more of the cooler air to flow towards the box. While the airbox was out I took the hose and filled it with water and drilled 1/4" holes in the bottom of it so that all of the water drained out and could not be sucked up if any got in. By removing the S pipe it also added a gap (removed the direct link) from the front of the truck to the airbox and doesn't let the water to just flow into the box thru the pipe. Added a K&N, and removed intake silencer and replaced it with a piece of heavy duty 3" flex tube (we use it at work for high volume/high temp air cooling of our lamps) with a very gentle bend towards the intake manifold.
On mine I left it where it is but removed the S shaped pipe that goes between the air box and the cover behind the headlight. I then cut a 4"x4" opening in the airbox where the S pipe used to be and cut the cover behind the headlight to allow more of the cooler air to flow towards the box. While the airbox was out I took the hose and filled it with water and drilled 1/4" holes in the bottom of it so that all of the water drained out and could not be sucked up if any got in. By removing the S pipe it also added a gap (removed the direct link) from the front of the truck to the airbox and doesn't let the water to just flow into the box thru the pipe. Added a K&N, and removed intake silencer and replaced it with a piece of heavy duty 3" flex tube (we use it at work for high volume/high temp air cooling of our lamps) with a very gentle bend towards the intake manifold.
Last edited by PirateFins; 03-28-2007 at 07:19 AM.
03-28-2007, 07:36 AM
#18
Registered User
My take:
Using 3" pipe with a factory 55mm TB and a factory AFM isn't going to buy you anything... Well, other than looking pretty cool.
Remember, if you want to flow more air, you've got to address the points of restriction. I'll let you guys have your own theories on where that restriction is, but a couple of guesses - could be any one of these:
1) AFM
2) TB
3) plenum(s)
4) CFM limitations of the head itself in stock form.
Get some cold air into that system...
Using 3" pipe with a factory 55mm TB and a factory AFM isn't going to buy you anything... Well, other than looking pretty cool.
Remember, if you want to flow more air, you've got to address the points of restriction. I'll let you guys have your own theories on where that restriction is, but a couple of guesses - could be any one of these:
1) AFM
2) TB
3) plenum(s)
4) CFM limitations of the head itself in stock form.
Get some cold air into that system...
03-28-2007, 08:12 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Can
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TB spacers are are good when used on a Carburator, but offer SFA when used on non-TBI EFI. Think about how they work: it's a spacer designed to move the TB further away from the plenum, esspecially just creating a bigger plenum.
Now think about how the EFI system works, where is the fuel injected: at the cylinder(or pretty damn close anyways).
The idea of the TB spacers is to allow more time for the air and fuel to mix, so if youre fuel was being injected at the TB(or Carb) yes, having a longer plenum would be good. But with direct port injection, they are just a usless chunk of metal on your TB.
As for a bigger TB: dcg9381 is using a 60mm TB from a 5M(I believe). I've got a 60mm TB from a 7M Cressedia sitting on my bench that is nearly identical to the stock TB, all it's missing is the power steering vacuum line(whoopty do). If you look at how much air a 22RE will suck in compaired to how much air the stock TB with flow...it's probably won't do much if anything. But if you can get one for cheap(or free) it won't hurt anything.
Now think about how the EFI system works, where is the fuel injected: at the cylinder(or pretty damn close anyways).
The idea of the TB spacers is to allow more time for the air and fuel to mix, so if youre fuel was being injected at the TB(or Carb) yes, having a longer plenum would be good. But with direct port injection, they are just a usless chunk of metal on your TB.
As for a bigger TB: dcg9381 is using a 60mm TB from a 5M(I believe). I've got a 60mm TB from a 7M Cressedia sitting on my bench that is nearly identical to the stock TB, all it's missing is the power steering vacuum line(whoopty do). If you look at how much air a 22RE will suck in compaired to how much air the stock TB with flow...it's probably won't do much if anything. But if you can get one for cheap(or free) it won't hurt anything.
