msane99

Felpro
CP75005

TOYOTA
11183-38010

jennygirl

Good to know, more great info.

You can find info about the intake swap in my signature. There are also a few other threads floating around the internet on other sites.

Odin

Thank you very much sir!

Ok, I need to adjust my valves and check how the timing chain guides are doing for the first time. I don't notice any leaks other than the ends but I think just to be on the safe side I will get a whole valve cover gasket set.
Is Fel-Pro the preferred brand to go with since they have those thick 1/2 moon seals?

Fel-Pro
VS 50358 R also listed under VS50358R

msane99

msane99

to me preferred would be from Toyota. But I was pleased with quality of those plugs. You let us know what cha think about the rest of the set.

My gasket preferences are:


#1 Toyota

#2 Victor Reinz (might can still find @ napa)

#3 Felpro

Its all a crap shoot, you never know from what factory the gasket was made. for the record those fel-pro plugs were the best ones I have seen.

Odin

On my V8 stuff I've had good luck with Fel-Pro but just about all of the Toyota stuff I read about seems like it's pretty good quality. Granted there are instances where the aftermarket could possibly make slight improvements.
Maybe the Fel-Pro 1/2 moon gasket is one area where they did.

sparkymonkey

Distributor O-ring sounds possible and easy to replace.

I'm real interested in this since mine leaks in the same spot almost exactly. Thing is it's not bad enough for me to try and find it. So I'll give you a little history of my truck and a theory and maybe I can get you to do some experimenting for me.

When you replace a timing chain or chain guides there are two options. Remove the head or remove the oil pan since the timing cover is sandwiched in between them (or at least loosen up the oil pan). I did this about 3 years ago after my timing chain broke into 3 pieces I completely removed the pan which I had to do to get the pieces out.

Every 22re that is still on the road must have gotten a new timing chain by now so I assure you, someone has done it to your truck. I hope for your sake they were not like me and they knew what they were doing.



When you replace the cover, where it mates to the head gasket is difficult to get sealed. I'm sure the chain slings tons of oil against the inside of that mating surface so if it's not sealed. I'm sure it'll leak. I'm pretty sure that's why mine leaks and it's not an easy job so I don't wanna do it unless it leaks really, really bad. I could be wrong.

I've also thought of another possibility. The nub like thing the arrow points to has a threaded hole in the top of the timing cover where the head bolts to it. If you take the valve cover off it's in the bottom of the oil pool that lubricates the distributor gear I believe. It's an easy bolt to forget when trying to remove the head since it's completely covered in oil. It's possible that if the timing cover and head aren't sealed together well oil could get past that bolt and leak through the gasket there.

You could try and remove the valve cover, remove the distributor, soak up oil in that pool with some rags, remove the bolt and seal it something. It's a good idea to fill that pool with some fresh oil before you close it back up. Check and adjust your valves while your in there.

Sorry, for the long winded response. You got me thinkin.

Good info, been a long time since I checked my PCV.

jennygirl

Great suggestion! The next time I have the valve cover off I'll definitely have a look. Sounds extremely plausible. I thought I remembered reading that there was a bolt in there.

Thanks

RAD4Runner

Re Bolt on Oil Pump Mounting here's a good post on it.

The need to pre-coat the tip of that particular bolt with sealant is I believe in LU-6 (Lubrication/Oil pump) section of FSM. Best of luck Jennygirl

msane99

Sparky thoughts on that front head gasket bolt, sounds like it could definitely be the culprit. A lot of times the timing kit gets changed and the head is left alone. that front bolt in the puddle is only supposed to be torqued down to 9 ft-lbs. That little bit of torque on a used gasket probably does not do a lot in the regard of sealing that area properly.

If the chain was replaced without removing the head, a little FIPG (best sealant in the world IMHO) Toyota part# 00295-00103 would have helped immensely in that area.

Odin

Ever tried "The Right Stuff" ? I know people who pretty much refuse to use anything else. One of them was a professional engine builder for drag/road/mudd/pulling/ racing applications. They both claim it's way better than typical RTV.

By the way I ended up getting a OE Toyota valve cover gasket and the FelPro 1/2 moons. Now to find the time and a place to stay dry.

msane99

I have used the right stuff on intake manifolds on several GM cars, and trucks, with great success. The toyota stuff to me is more versatile where the right stuff is for specific applications. But yes it holds up amazingly.

Good choice on the gaskets, I believe you will be pleased. Did you get new seals for the hold downs? Those are another that I have seen at least 4 different style/revisions. The toyota ones seem to have more metal encased in them.

Odin

No, mine don't look too bad so I didn't see reusing them as something that would give me problems. I did look into the Toyota price on them and decided to wait because there are costlier things I need to get. 4 tires, alignment, shocks, fuel filter, battery cables etc.

sparkymonkey

Completely agree. I did mine that way. I was worried at the time about that area leaking so I cleaned that area of the head gasket and the bottom of the head as best I could and put permatex on it. Wish I knew about the FIPG then. Was leak free for a few years but that same oil puddle Jenny is having started six months ago. I can't remember, is that the only bolt that secures the head to the timing cover?

On another note, why the heck did Toyota design the timing cover like that? Couldn't the head be the same length of the block and have the timing cover bolt onto the front of both? Would be a whole lot easier to service that way.

Used the FIPG for the first time on my rear diff. You can just tell by how sticky it is that it kicks butt.

Jenny, make sure the hole that the little bolt threads into is clean. Enough old sealant or dirt in a thread hole will cause false torque readings and stripped threads, especially in aluminum. A set of dentist pics and compressed air cleans them out quick. If you do put sealant on it when replacing don't over do it. Just some things I've learned the hard way.

jennygirl

Sounds like great advice. This is on my list of tidy up things. I am nearly done making this engine run purrrfectly

Odin

I think every car I've ever worked on has a couple of areas where it wouldn't have took much to improve the design.




I have to agree about cleaning out threads for proper torque, especially in aluminum. Using picks is a good idea because sometimes there's some stubborn stuff that sticks in a thread. However I found it is a good idea to invest in a set of thread chasers. You can normally find a metric set of 6-7 for around $20.00 or so. Not only do they remove crud from the threads they can help straighten up a thread that might be questionable.

I love nice high quality tools but you really don't need to spend a lot on chasers because you aren't putting much torque on them. If you are you're using the wrong tool!
Years ago I purchased a set of National Coarse chasers from Summit and loved them so much I turned around and purchased a set of National Fine with my next order from them.
Now that I have a Toyota metric chasers will definitely be in my list of purchases. This is what I've been looking at.

.
.
.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-THREAD-CHASER-RETHREADING-TAP-SET-M6mm-8mm-10mm-12-MADE-IN-USA-7PCS-/140904791538?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ce947df2

jennygirl

Nice thanks for the link! I'm going to get a set of these. I think they will come in handy so many times with this truck. Actually, I know for sure they will

rworegon

Yes, they are $$ well spent. I picked up a thread chaser set with both standard and metric tap and dies in it and use it more than I ever thought I would. It's a HF special but it has got the job done several times now.

msane99

I have never seen a chaser set like that. I purchased a nice metric tap and die set several years ago, and have always used it. I have a list in the garage of the sizes toyota uses specifically. I chase everything on my cars/trucks. Its a good habit to get into definitely.

Odin

Like you I also have a full tap and die set but after I purchased a set of chasers the regular taps for the most part go unused.

If anyone doesn't know about thread Chaser's this is from the auction description.
"In most situations they will clear away rust and dirt or straighten out threads that have been damaged. The benefits of using these instead of a regular cutting tap are: less expensive, convenient hex drive that will fit in your socket set, shorter than most taps for hard to reach areas, won't undercut threads, and they are less brittle."

Basically what it say's is that chasers are NOT for cutting new threads, they are designed to clean dirt and crud out of existing threads and straighten up threads that are a little buggered up.
One of the things that I like is that they start going into the hole very easily almost eliminating cross threading. With a normal tap there is the very real possibility of cross threading/cutting the first few threads unless you are using a bottoming tap.
They also mentioned chasers are less brittle.
To me this says if one break's there is the "possibility" that you can drill it and use an easy out to retrieve it. With a standard tap unless you can easily back it out with a pick or something... good luck with that.

You can also purchase Spark Plug Thread Chaser's.
Over the years carbon gets pulled into the threads when you remove the plugs and gets deposited there. Dried up anti seize can also accumulate in the threads. Both of these things can give you a vague feeling when tightening the spark plugs down. I used a chaser and all of that material was removed from my 22R-E head leaving me with clean threads and 100% certainty when I tighten the plugs down.
I ended up filling the chaser's threads and cut out area's with grease to catch debris and lube the threads at the same time. I cleaned the grease out with electrical cleaner.