Speach

I recently needed to change my front pads on my 87 4runner and after bleeding the brakes and rear load sensor it seemed to be fine after that. Not long after I realized some smell that seemed like breaks but my transmission is working super hard and acting weird. One thing is that I may have dried out my master cylinder when I first started bleeding my breaks but im not sure. I have good pedal pressure. What would be the typical symptoms of not bench bleeding the mc? It almost seems like im driving with the e brake on. It's really hard to gain speed especially in second. Once im in top gear everything seems fine????? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

85gijunk4x4

automatic, or manual??

justin_4runner

jack up each tire and see if u feel like u have drag on it, might of tighten up the rear breaks too much or fronts could be dragging slowing it down and causing the problem, not bleeding it right would give u a soft pedal and no breaks, not the feeling ur describing.

Speach

It's an automatic. Sorry. Well I didn't even touch the rear breaks other than bleeding in new fluid and getting rid of any air. I will check for the drag on the front in the morning. Im pretty sure what im smelling is break pads. If my break pads were dragging would it cause the transmission to act up? Also if I let my master cylinder run dry ( failing to bench bleed the mc ) and then put new fluid in it would it cause the break pistons to over react and cause drag??? Thanks

justin_4runner

it could cause the tranny to act up, but if u did get air in and not bleed it out you would end up with a soft peddle and no breaks. it would not feel right when u push on it and it wouldn't get soiled when u push down.

Speach

I did not use a torque wrench after installing the new pads. Huh I don't remember tightening them extra tight but it would make sense if that is what I did. Any idea what the torque specs are for the caliper bolts?

justin_4runner

the bolts being tightened with a torque wrench or not wont make them bind up or cause then to drag, if the calipers are getting old and not moving like they should when u pushed them in and put on the new pads the calipers are pushing on the pads into the rotors and causing the smell and binding issues. when u hit the breaks does it pull one way or the other? if so start with that side and take the caliper back off and see if it looks like its been heating up or anything.

Speach

Ok I will take them back apart. Are the're any tricks to keep the fluid from just pouring out when you take the calipers off? Other brakes that I have worked on were not so complicated. If the fluid runs out, will I have to take the mc out to bleed just to be able to fill it back up again? It did seem to pull a bit when I first finished the work. The Caliper pistons did not seem any harder to push in than any other car that I have worked on in the past although I don't think the previous owner changed the pads for a while. I will clean them real good before I put them back on. Are there any tricks to getting the pistons freed up so that they don't stick? Also I remember the pads that I bought came with a stick on metal backing plate that I used. Could they be causing the problem? Making the pads too thick? The pads I bought were duralast from autozone? Thanks again.

justin_4runner

u don't need to open the calipers to release the brake fluid to get the brakes off. all u do is use a big pry or flat head and stick it between calipers and pad to open them a little. enough to get them off and see whats going on, u shouldn't have to pull with master cylinder. only time u need to do the bench bleeding is the first time and if u rebuild them. the only way to get the calipers from sticking is to get new or rebuild them. the metal shims could be causing the problems but usually its calipers are sticking and not opening all the way causing the pads to drag. good way to tell whats up, jack up take off tire and just turn the rotor, u will have some drag but not much, if u cant turn or hard then look and see if u can pry open the caliper more to let loose, if it does then that caliper is not pulling back and causing the problem.

Speach

Thanks a bunch. I took the wheels off and found the calipers dragging. they look like crap so Im off to get new calipers. The parts guy on the phone said it could be the brake hoses? Any thoughts on that?

justin_4runner

i would see if there cracked or anything other wise no they wouldn't cause the brakes to bind like that.

Speach

Yea it sounded weird to me too when he told me that about the brakelines. Ok so now I have new rotors with new pins. Thanks for telling me a better way to take them off. It was super easy. I am pretty much having the same problem still. The discs rub a bit now but not to bad. What would be normal? I don't think that they rub quite as much now but it still seems to be doing the same thing as far as when I drive the truck. It will pick up in first gear kind of slow then shift fine and will be really sluggish in second. I know Its working to hard to go so slow. All this started after changing the front pads, oil, plugs. Im burning through gas. I noticed that my discs were a bit warped because when I spin them around one side is freer than the other. Although it really doesn't seem to hang up much. Any other suggestions. Im trying not to forget that it is almost 25 years old and get too frustrated, but it's my daily driver. So I need to fix it and not be burning through so much gas.

justin_4runner

when u did your plugs did u make sure they where gaped right?? did u also mess with or check your timing when doing the plugs? might be a couple things to think about. also if u get a little rubbin is normal. its when its hard to turn hard to explain on here, im thinking it might be more your plugs then brakes. might be a boot not on all the way or cap and rotor need to be done, or might even have the wires back on in the wrong order.

Speach

Hmm. I gapped them to spec, and did one at a time to be sure that I didnt mix them up. I will go through my plugs in the morning to be sure. I didn't touch the timing. The engine sounds good as before as far as timing.

camo31_10.50

why buy new calipers? just rebuild yours....it's simple

Speach

To late now. I didn't know how easy it was. Need this fixed asap. Possibly I would have to wait for parts to do it anyway. Either way I wish I would have because the calipers don't seem to be the problem.

Speach

So I checked my rear breaks and no problem there. My problem seems to be my automatic transmission.