mulewright

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-wrong-290831/

Above is my original post. In order for me to complete my project I need to solve this new problem. I have gone so far as to remove the wires from the diagnostic board and wire nut them together to ensure good connection. . My truck as it is, 89 22re five speed 4 wheel drive, reads a constant of 0 with a timing light. Explains my random hard to crank issues as it's not firing before t d c. . Also my distributor seems a tooth off, but I don't want to pull it until I can properly check my timing with the light. Any ideas of what to check next?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You know to adjust the timing you loosen the bolt holding the distributor
Then rotate the distributor in the direction you need to move it to get your desired results .

Jumping TE1 to E1 allows the ECU to remember the adjustment and not return to where it was.

AKHeathen

i think you set it to 10degrees btdc, not 0 while jumpered..... and then you don't want those wires connected after you set it. if it's not off a tooth, it should be somewhere in the middle. the ecu adjusts the timing from like 35btdc to 12atdc, but you want the base timing at 10.

mulewright

Right but when I jump them out to even check timing the two are doing nothing. No change in idle and no check engine light comes on. .

mulewright

I'm assuming those two signs I say I do not get from jumping them out, I should be getting. If I'm wrong please tell me So I can finish setting the timing! Thanks!

scope103

Jumping TE1 to E1 SHOULD cause a steady (about 2x / second http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf) flash of the CEL; if you're not getting that, something is definitely wrong somewhere. Does the CEL come on with key-on? If not, a very likely problem is a burned-out indicator bulb.

TE1 to E1 sets base timing; usually, base timing is less than whatever temperature, etc. is calling for, but not always. Sometimes the timing is already at base, so there will be no change in timing or idle speed.

So start by setting the timing to 10 with the jumper in. It should run "okay" there. Then figure out why your CEL isn't working. If you were off a tooth, that's about 28°, so you probably wouldn't be able to get it to 0°.

mulewright

I think I'm a tooth off on the distributor side because my firing order is 2 1 3 4 starting at the number one slot on the cap. The link above is to my original post. I haven't checked to see if it came on just turning the key on.. what a simple thing to check, and if that should be the problem I'm going to kick myself awful hard for not thinking of that! Thanks!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You know come to think of it on my 87 With those 2 points jumped I never even thought to look in the cab.

I just set the timing pulled the jumper off called it good .

Never touched yet.

mulewright

Well here's a lesson. . When you ain't the original owner of something, you never know what you are getting or what's been done along the way. . The light bulb from the check engine light was missing. I pulled the one from the light next to it and bam. It worked, and it's now set to 5 b t d c. I'm just wondering what that light I pulled said because I couldn't make it out for nothing. Ill replace it when I go to town.

RJR

If the TPS switch is inoperative jumpering E1 and TE1 won't have the desired effect. The ECU needs to see the TPS switch closed in order to know it's in idle mode.

AKHeathen

is 5 degrees what the emmision sticker says?

moparbay

Yeah, my CEL didn't work when I got my truck either, I checked the bulb in the instr. cluster and it was good. someone in the past actually took time to remove the ECM, figure out what wire (Violet) in my 94 pickup 3.0l controls the light and cut it. Once I reconnected (Butt connector) the CEL works as it should. Good luck

AKHeathen

btw, 1342 is normal firing order. lol, i ran into a bad ecu in a caddilac that wouldn't flash, and had constant light on, but it ran great with rebuilt 500 so i just jumpered it to the alternator light on the back of the display instead and it finally passed emmissions inspection. beats spending more than the car is worth for nothing bs.

mulewright

I have read that it was 5 degrees on a thread somewhere on here. I have the correct firing order but what I mean by 2-1-3-4 is on the cap where the one is, I have to put my number 2 wire and so on going C W. It won't effect it, after further reading, but it just bugs me like that.

scope103

The FSM spec for the 22re is 5° http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../5distribu.pdf , but you should have an under-hood sticker giving the correct timing for YOUR vehicle.

Oh man, it would really bug me too. You'd have to be off by about THREE teeth (84° or so) to do that. The instructions to fix it are in the manual cited above.

mulewright

Thanks! Ill do that in the morning! Setting my timing is going to be hard since I now realize my harmonic balancer is off, so if I can just get it lined up right on my distributor and correct firing order to prevent continuing to fowl my plugs I'll be ok. I plan on buying a full-size truck soon and when I do I plan to completely 're build my motor.

mulewright

Little up date. After tearing everything apart, I replaced the timing chain, guides, sprockets, went ahead and replaced the water pump, oil pump and belts while I was there. I bought a new harmonic balancer for the 22re motor. My problems I found was they put the wrong harmonic balancer on and when they set thetiming they got it to work since they couldn't just line the marks up. Long story short I'm ruining good, thrown no engine codes now. I still need to adjust my distributor as it's hard to crank abs possibly look into the tps. Thanks y'all!