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Jgod thanks for suggestion.. I just finished a rebuild and all my coolant system components I put all brand new. Radiator, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat all brand new (800 miles on rebuild) also cleaned and services all coolant passages and replaced the hoses.
And yes I'm same as grumpin no other issues like some of you have.. Only on warm start when it sits for 5-30 mins it'll idle very low. Symptoms disappear after a short period of driving.
just to clarify. when i replaced PCV valve to fix the rough idle it was also a rough idle on start after warm. revving a bit or driving would clear it up. i know you said you checked it but my actual valve seemed ok but the rubber thing was all hard and fell apart. just saying it might be worth it to change it out if you havent. cheap part. the idle thing was really pissing me off until i figured that out. also when i tested the valve on it, the old one was how i thought it should be (one way valve) but the new one let a little air through when i blew on it. i know that seems counter intuitive but it fixed the problem so i dont think it was defective.
Thanks for clarifying that. Next time I'm at Toyota I will pick one up. It's a problem I can live with for the time being. Just frustrating that I can't figure it out lol
jgod, jennygirl and RSR, I have never had this happen at a stop light, or while it is warm and running. That service bulletin is exactly what it does. After shutting down and sitting for 15-30 minutes. On start up it idles real low, 2-300 RPM, may even die. I'm thinking these may be different issues. Worth a try of course.
To clarify, I haven't had it once running. Just occasionally upon startup.
My PCV valve and gasket are Toyota parts and new as of 5k miles or so ago.
Note that not all 22re's have the FPU; I don't have the page that lists the applications.
Random thought/question for you scope103 or grumpin. Is this switch controlled by ECU? I have an ecu out of an 89 4Runner which does not have the switch. If I put the ecu out of that truck could it potentially bypass the switch?
That switch just goes to ground. You could disconnect it and bypass it. With my problem, the reason I wired in the toggle switch is because it helps. If I could have just disconnected it I would have. You could try and see what happens. Having said that, the ECU swap may prove to be good. I would try it. Interesting that some do not have that switch. If the ECU works, I would like one. Also, with the toggle switch, I don't have to disconnect the wire for the A/C at the ECU plug, as in the service bulletin.
Grumpin you're my hero.. Just finished installing my toggle switch and it works amazing!! This thread should be stickied.. Thanks a lot!!
I didn't play around much with the other ecu. I will actually try it tomorrow. Was curious why I'm getting that code 21 and I already had bought the switch to try your method.
Glad it worked! I don't know about code 21. If it's just with the donor ECU, maybe it's bad. Or different part number O2 sensor. Found out something interesting, I have 2 1987 FSM's. They both only go to code 14. I have a 1988 PDF and it has "normal" and codes 12 through 71, not in order, and not all the numbers. Early days of OBD, I guess.
Hey just to be sure I'm running this switch correctly. Did it exactly like yours. Soldered it at switch, ran through fire wall attached toggle switch and ran ground behind kick panel... So on my toggle switch the wire to ground is on the bottom. And the wire to FPU is on the top position of toggle switch. Does that mean in order to run it to ground the toggle needs to point down(towards ground wire)?
I wired mine like that, the top being the on position. But if it's a single pole single throw switch, it will only be on or closed in the on position. So, it could have the wire to ground on either terminal.
Hey grumpin, found this strange: after correcting the issue I was having with the AC/PS idle up actuator my toggle switch now works a lot better.. Before when I'd hit my toggle switch my rpms would very slowly rise to where they should be over 30 seconds or so. Now when I hit the toggle switch my rpms instantly jump up about 200 rpms. Wonder if that actuator is somewhat related to our warm start issues. Just a thought, figured I'd share.
04-18-2015, 09:42 PM
