redtacoma31

I have an 87 extra cab SR5 22re 5 speed truck with a 22ret motor, wiring harness, and computer. I didnt install the motor. What I know about it is. I have the stock manifold, turbo, intake, possible wiring harness, and computer. I dont have any blink codes. The rotor, cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, TPS, and AFM are all new. I just installed a new TPS today, the old TPS was just a little outside parameters. It was adjusted wrong for sure. So when I adjusted it. The truck started quicker. Still sometimes it will try and start and stall out. Then if you crank it again it will fire right up. I have tried to adjust the idle several times. It only changes. After the TPS was adjusted I just barely push the throttle and it will slowly raise RPM them jump from like 1300ish to 2000ish. Then if you barely left off it will fall back down. This has me baffled unless its due to the way I set the TPS. So I got a new one, and adjusted it. It also does the throttle jump. Is this normal? Also if you quickly smash the throttle down. The truck hesitates, then revs up. You can hear like a bark through the intake tube, from the turbo to the filter. If you have a little rpm and smash the throttle it will take right off and rev up. If you slowly roll into the throttle it is just fine. I have 32 psi fuel pressure at idle and 40 psi with the regulator unhooked. I hooked my fuel injector cleaner kit up to the rail and ran some cleaner through the injectors with the fuel pump off. This didn't seem to help. The truck sounds like it has a little miss in it. The motor was rebuilt and I believe it had the turbo pistons installed as to lower the compression. I do have 137,142,138,140 psi compression. So the motor is sound. I am stumped as to what else could cause this truck to have those issues. I have sprayed intake cleaner all over the intake, and vacuum hoses looking for a leak. The only thing I havn't checked was the O2 sensor. The TPS and AFM checked out in parameters. Any advice, or things to check would be much appreciated. I am still half tempted to send the injectors off to have them ultrasonic cleaned and checked for flow rates. Thanks in advance.

osv

have you checked the egr? unless it's stuck open, or fouling, you can disconnect the vacuum hose from on top of the egr, and plug up the hose... see if the symptoms change.

have the valves been adjusted?

you can buy a cheap vacuum gauge at harbor freight, that will tell you if there is a valve train problem, as well as other things... very handy for troubleshooting, hook it up to plenum vacuum.

redtacoma31

I have not checked the EGR. The valves to my knowledge have not been adjusted either. How often do they need adjusting? I have a vacuum/boost gauge on the truck. It pulls 13-18psi at idle, varying between a cold engine and hot engine.

Kiroshu

EGR opening too early or sticking open intermediately can cause hesitation and drivability problems.

Believe Toyota says to adjust/check adjustment of valve "lash" every 30-35k miles.

Its possible the vehicle may not have the 22RTE Computer installed resulting in some performance lag.

redtacoma31

It has the 22ret computer. I looked and it has a big giant sticker on it. Should I just remove the EGR, and install block off plates? How can I test the EGR?

osv

remove it from the equation is one test, per my post above... then while the vacuum line is plugged, per the above, plug another vacuum line into the top of the egr, and put vacuum to it, while the engine is running... even just sucking on the vacuum line should kill an idling motor, or at least cause it to run roughly.

redtacoma31

Ok, The EGR if hooked directly to vacuum will almost kill the engine. It really starts to stumble. So I got my multi-meter out, and checked the oxygen sensor. It was hot and not cycling above .45 volts. So in goes a new one. I didn't check it. But the engine still runs the same. For the most part it runs good. Just idles around 1000 rpm sometimes, and 650 others, and occasionally sitting at 800. I sprayed a ton of throttle body cleaner down the IAT tube and let it sit while the truck was hot. Started it and let it idle it all out. This didnt seem to make a change. Minus sending my injectors off to sonic balance them, and adjusting the valves. I am stumped. The only real thing that bothers me is. When you really rack the throttle fast. From and idle. It will occasionally pop through the intake. Not a bang or really loud pop. But it does pop. Also on de-acceleration. The truck will pop and crackly out the exhaust. It has a new cat, and muffler. If you are going down a strong hill it wont do it. If you are slowing down and downshift into lower rpms it will pop. Like a straight piped Harley.

Any other advice? Thanks osv for clearing up the EGR test.

Kiroshu

Dirty throttle body...?

redtacoma31

Clean throttle body, and intake plenum.

osv

i would do the valve check, since you don't know when it was last done... you can do it cold, 7 thou intake, 11 thou exhaust, if i remember correctly? that should get you in the ball park.

i like to spray off the valve cover at the car wash before hand, to make sure that no garbage falls into the engine.

when idling, the vacuum reading should be perfectly steady, if it's flicking up and down, there could be a valve problem.

did you check the timing? with jumper set?

redtacoma31

Jumper set, timing is 5 degrees. I dont have any check engine codes. The engine does change idle when you jump it. I am going to run the valves tomorrow night. I hope that it makes a difference.