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Hey yotas, I just got an 87 4x4 pickup and as with most my ignition is giving problems. I've been cleaning connections but still can't find the problem. I replaced the switch but no fix. 12 volts going to switch but I have no turn signals , wipers or starter. I ran a wire from battery to solenoid and the starter works fine. Nothing on st1 at the switch. Help
Thanks, I'll check this tomorrow. I did pull and inspect but did not ohm them out. Cleaning the fuse box under the dash was also my next move. I am working on the box by the battery today. I found the previous owner had " fixed " the power wire from the battery by wrapping the wire around the bolt at the fuse. I cut it back to good wire and terminated it.
Good morning, using the diagram for the switch. I checked resistance. Everything checked to be good. If I turn the switch to "crank" and put a jumper from the incoming hot to ST1 I get dash lights. Thoughts?
A problem well-stated is a problem almost-solved.
Please do your tests one system at a time, so you do not confuse yourself and others trying to help.
How about hazards and horn? If you are not getting those, either, you problem is even before the ignition switch.
Don't just check for resistance. Check for voltage. Pls see schematic below...
With ignition OFF and no jumpers connected, do you have voltage at both pin 4 (white wire) and pin 8 (white and red) pins of ignition switch?
ST1 is not used to control dash lights. You use it to crank. Does it do what it's supposed to do? Crank?
When you put it in accessories position, do you get voltage at Pin 3 (blue and red wire)?
When you put it in IGN ON, do you get voltage at Pin 2 (black and yellow wire) and pin 7 (black and red)?
When you try to crank, do you see voltage at the ST1 pin (black and white)?
Original problem is: no dash warning lights when ignition is turned "in", no turn signals, no wipers. I do have horn and flashers. Never more than 9volts from ST1. Thanks for the help.
Original problem is: no dash warning lights when ignition is turned "in", no turn signals, no wipers. I do have horn and flashers. Never more than 9volts from ST1. Thanks for the help.
GOTTA BE MORE DETAILED, because we do not see, hear, feel, what's going on with truck.
No more than 9volts out of ST1? How about what goes in?
First off I would like to thank the folks that have reached out to help. I attached an image of the switch to better clarify my problem(I hope). After trying to start the truck several times, I have ended up with power at the switch as indicated. I guess the only good side to this is that things went from barely working to not working at all.
How about Ignition output when only put to Ign Onn like I asked above?
While trying to crank, and u see 9V at ST1, what do see at input? If 12V at input and 9V at ST1 out, then u have a bad switch, too.
If input to ign switch (always hot) also goes down to 9V when cranking, u have a bad or discharged battery.
Obviously I Joined the right spot. You guys know your Toyotas. Once I removed aggravation from the equation, I took another look at what you guys were saying. I have lost power on pin 4. (0 volts). Am I correct in thinking this wire goes to the fuse box beside the battery? If so, I have power on that end of it. Is there anything in between?
Pin 4 takes power from the 40-amp fuse through that white wire. You need to inspect if that wire is connected to that fuse and if nots broken.
Sorry, my schematic shows white and white-red wires going to ignition, not brown like your picture shows.
Good morning. As I stated yesterday, I have 0volts on pin 4 of the ignition switch. Pin8 does have 12 volts. I checked the 80 amp fuse and it is good. I have 12 volts at the fuse end of the white wire. I have lost it some where in between the 80 amp fuse and Pin 4. What is the next most likely place to check? Thanks
Could this be why pin 4 at the ignition has no power? I found this coming out of the fuse box by the battery.
Good job! Most probably. There's a white wire that goes between the pin 4 and the 40-Amp fuse. If you trace that, Pretty sure that's where it leads.
I would unbold fuse block from mounting, remove covers and inspect all wires and fuse connectors/receptacles.
If it's a very thick white wire you're holding, it could be the "B" wire that connects fuse network to alternator, and the thinner wire is the "S" wire tapped to it that goes to connector on alternator.
That crimp may also be going to "C" power wire, meaning you do not have dome, stop signal, tail lights (same circuit as dash lights), etc.
Those crimps are notorious for being brittle and getting corroded. Same as crimps on fuel injector wires near intake manifold.
My recommended repair:
1) Strip those wires carefully so no strand is cut,
2) Clean them thoroughly, remove all corrosion.
3) Wrap them around each other other securely for mechanical integrity on your splice,
4) Apply good soldering flux or use good flux solder
5) Solder with powerful soldering iron. I use Weller 80-watts for most of my auto wiring, including battery cables.
6) Insulate well with good electrical tape or "liquid" rubber tape
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-05-2016 at 04:20 PM.
That looks a lot like the fusible link; Vern may have pushed his power limit at some point in the past (long enough ago for the weakened spot to turn green).
03-02-2016, 03:57 PM
