pyrojoe22

This is the 3rd time I'm servicing my front wheel bearings in the last 9 months. Every time I go through a stream, my bearings start screaming bloody murder. Cleaning and repacking them keeps them happy for a short time, and replacing them keeps them quiet until I cross water again. I've heard two stories, one is that water will always find a way in, and the other is that my seals must be shot. I just ordered a wheel bearing kit from WabFab, and even though I used new seals last time, and will replace them again this time, I would like to know:

Are there any seals that I can replace with Ultra Blue or Ultra Black RTV? I'm trying to keep these suckers tight to keep water and mud out. I don't drive through it unless I have to, which, when you're chasing cattle, doesn't always give you the option to avoid it.

Thanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Sounds like you need to seal your manual hubs (or drive flanges) better and use a higher quality wheel bearing grease.

:wabbit2:

pyrojoe22

The bearings I used the first time were SRK or something like that. The next one was a Toyota one from the dealer. The grease I used is Mystik NLGI No. 2 high temp disc brake wheel bearing grease. Got it at O 'Reily's

pyrojoe22

I don't know how I would seal them better, do I need to put the seals in and just put RTV on both sides of them?

572ysc

when you install your manual hubs try some rtv on the flanges. the inner seal should not allow water entry i think you may be getting water in the manual hubs. maybe the oring is bad on the selector nob.

chrishf12

The seal on the rear of the hub should be a press in seal and not need RTV. If you put RTV on them you can mess up the force fit and allow water in. If the water is coming in through the hub do what 572ysc suggested.

MudHippy

No, it won't do that. But it will make a mess and be of no added benefit. So don't do it for those reasons.

There's 6 different seals to keep water from getting to the wheel bearings. They ALL need to be in good condition for the wheel bearings and grease to stay dry.

Part numbers in yellow.

43211V & 43212L SEAL (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE)
90316-60004


43410E SEAL (FOR FRONT DRIVE SHAFT)
90304-76005


43501F & 43502F SEAL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB)
90311-66003

43532A&B O-RING (FOR FREE WHEEL HUB)
43532-60010


You can use RTV for 43422B&C(43422-60010) and 43531A&B(43531-60010).

See this thread for details on the CV shaft and steering knuckle seals: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rt-earn-96581/

iselloil

sure its not the bronze hub bushing making the noise?

pyrojoe22

Awesome, thanks guys! I don't know what went wrong, because I did replace all the seals, but will do so again.

What bronze bushing are you talking about iselloil?

iselloil

Its in the hub.When it gets dry it squeals and make noise.Its on the inboard side of the hub.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-100327/

pyrojoe22

Well shoot. For as much work as it is to get all the way in there, I don't wanna just fix the bushing and come to find out my bearings need replacing, too.

OH MAN! That is AWESOME!!! I will be doing this! Now I feel kind of dumb for ordering new bearings so quickly, I can't believe no one on Toyota Nation ever mentioned that bushing. Oh well, I'm sure the bearings could use replacing since they have mud in them anyway. Guess I'll keep them for spares...

iselloil

There is a updated needle bearing for this.I did the update on my pickup,and my 4runner I did the lube trick.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm

Brenjen

There is a tool you can make very cost effective to grease the brass bushing....do not replace it with a needle bearing.

Ensure the seal at the back did not get knicked when you put it on the spindle & that it is driven in correctly; unsure the O-ring on the manual hubs is good & lightly lubed with grease before you install it, that will keep it from "grabbing" when the hubs are engaged which will damage it, make sure to use silicone on the paper gaskets between the hub flanges...not too much, just coat them & be sure all the surfaces are clean.

If you do all that & do it right & water still gets in, check the spindle for size & roundness....it may be out of whack.

Trust me, I've made every mistake possible & learn from experience. (I.E. doing it 2 or 3 times like you)

Edit: the tool making procedure & list of parts can be found on this site & it works well, I made one a couple years ago.

MudHippy

Well..I tried. It pays to pay attention.

Good luck!

pyrojoe22

I'll update with what I've found when I change them next weekend. Thanks again everyone!

pyrojoe22

Okay, now I'm gonna ask a question that sounds really dumb, but I have no one to show me, and I haven't been able to find it on youtube. What is the proper way to go with applying grease when replacing the bearings? You put grease on your hand and tap the bearing on the grease till it comes out through the middle of the bearings right? And then how much grease needs to go into the hubs? Do you fill them completely full or what?

pyrojoe22

And I guess as long as I'm ripping into it again, should I replace the brass bushing since it's squeaking? Or do I just need to lube it?

iselloil

clean and lube.

pyrojoe22

Can you tell me which one of those parts is the brass bushing? My guess from these pictures would be 43212 from the top picture

TNRabbit

It's 43420; it's at the end of the CV shaft & goes through the middle of the axle.