IFS axle shaft

InternetRoadkill · 01-19-2006, 10:10 AM

My restoration project has hit a snag. I discovered that the left axle shaft on the front IFS is pitted around where the inner seal rides. As a result, it's leaking oil into the axle tube extension and out the outer dust seal. :pat:

So now I'm looking for a replacement axle shaft. I would really like to avoid going to the dealer and getting ass raped. Is there another source for these, or does someone have a used shaft that is still in good condition (no pitting please).

88 4rnr,
2.4L,
auto,
1.1" splines

Flamedx4 · 01-19-2006, 10:35 AM

Carefull with the language, but since it was in the same sentence with 'dealer' I understand completely...

I paid $66 each for complete assemblies ready to install, lifetime warranty from Carquest.

InternetRoadkill · 01-19-2006, 10:40 AM

$66 for the axle shaft or the CV assembly? I need the axle.

Flamedx4 · 01-19-2006, 11:24 AM

The whole thing.
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:

InternetRoadkill · 01-19-2006, 11:41 AM

Thanks for trying, but that's the wrong item. I need the left stub shaft that the CV half shaft bolts to.

Flamedx4 · 01-19-2006, 06:11 PM

You mean the side shaft? (yellow in this diagram)
Do you have ADD or no?
Someone doing SAS should have one laying around. Check over in the Classifeds.

InternetRoadkill · 01-19-2006, 07:36 PM

Yes, I mean the side shaft. The FSM calls it the 'side gear shaft'. I always knew it as the stub shaft.

The problem I've run into is that the previous owner never used the 4 wheel drive mode, so the oil and grease didn't get splashed on the parts inside the diff. As a result, condensation which formed inside the diff has caused rust pitting on the surface where the oil seal rides which is causing it to leak.

The dealer wants $320 for a new shaft. Not going to happen. What I'm doing now is I'm going to chuck the shaft up in my lathe and polish the seal surface to see if I can get it smooth enough to seal properly again.

As a fallback position, I'm hoping that someone who's done an SAS will have an old shaft laying around they might want to get rid of.

snap-on · 01-19-2006, 07:39 PM

not to dash your hopes but ive been hittin up most of the SAS guys i can find looking to de ADD my 4runner. 6 months of search has yeilded squat.

runethechamp · 01-20-2006, 10:18 AM

AS a side note to this question, anyone know how difficult it is and how long it should take to change the bearing for this side gear shaft? I know a got a little bit of slop in mine.

InternetRoadkill · 01-20-2006, 01:24 PM

If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.

The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.

Radyota · 01-20-2006, 01:33 PM

I wonder if smearing some epoxy glue into the pitted area and fine/wetsanding it smooth would make a smooth enough, sealable surface?

InternetRoadkill · 01-20-2006, 03:05 PM

That's what I'm going to try this weekend. I have some JB weld that I'm going to coat the area with, and then I'm going to polish it using my lathe and some fine emery paper. The pits are not that deep, so there's a chance they may polish out without the JB weld.

runethechamp · 01-20-2006, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill

If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.

The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.

Thanks for the info.

Radyota · 02-09-2006, 07:06 PM

Did this ever work out?

vkrunner · 05-23-2006, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flamedx4

The whole thing.
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:

I think my '94 4runner 194,000 miles V6 SR5 4x4 is making loud ticking noise when in 4x4 mode and steep turning. I think think the half shafts are broken or something.

The shafts that you are describing, can I install myself? Is it easy to replace and require any special tools?

How much will it cost at stealership with OEM parts?

TIA.

snap-on · 05-23-2006, 12:29 PM

sounds like the CVs are just clicking, rebuild or replace. search CV removal for all the goodness

leebee · 05-23-2006, 05:08 PM

this might help out:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18frontdri.pdf

lee

Rather Diesel · 05-23-2006, 06:54 PM

Try Pirate 4x4 if you can't fix it. About 96% of the Toyota guys run straight axles. Someone sent me all the torsion bar hardware for the price of the shipping.

They just trash the stuff.

Roy

01-19-2006, 10:10 AM	#1 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	IFS axle shaft My restoration project has hit a snag. I discovered that the left axle shaft on the front IFS is pitted around where the inner seal rides. As a result, it's leaking oil into the axle tube extension and out the outer dust seal. :pat: So now I'm looking for a replacement axle shaft. I would really like to avoid going to the dealer and getting ass raped. Is there another source for these, or does someone have a used shaft that is still in good condition (no pitting please). 88 4rnr, 2.4L, auto, 1.1" splines

01-19-2006, 10:35 AM	#2 (permalink)
Flamedx4 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: 100 miles offshore as much as possible, & Springfield Oregon USA Posts: 3,286	Carefull with the language, but since it was in the same sentence with 'dealer' I understand completely... I paid $66 each for complete assemblies ready to install, lifetime warranty from Carquest. __________________ All my Yotas are gone. Stuff to sell: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...39#post1009839 -Phil

01-19-2006, 07:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
snap-on Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: STL MO Posts: 2,375	not to dash your hopes but ive been hittin up most of the SAS guys i can find looking to de ADD my 4runner. 6 months of search has yeilded squat. __________________ 94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers 92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

01-20-2006, 10:18 AM	#9 (permalink)
runethechamp Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Berkeley, CA Posts: 538	AS a side note to this question, anyone know how difficult it is and how long it should take to change the bearing for this side gear shaft? I know a got a little bit of slop in mine. __________________ 94 4runner SR5, V6 3VZE, 5 speed Completely rebuilt engine with Toyota parts at 147k miles Downey Coils, Aisin manual hubs, Cowl Louver mod, Hella 500 fog lights Yeah, I know, not many cool mods here

01-20-2006, 01:33 PM	#11 (permalink)
Radyota Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: St. Cloud, MN Posts: 210	I wonder if smearing some epoxy glue into the pitted area and fine/wetsanding it smooth would make a smooth enough, sealable surface? __________________ '92 toyota Xtracab 4x4 pickup-3.0 v6,5 speed, 235/75 15" tires, intake "Y" hose and associated vacuum boxes eliminated,186,000 mi., engine almost together,Engnbldr's grade 10.9 head bolts, clutch now replaced w/Centerforce dual friction clutch. '84 toyota Supra P-type 5MGE inline 6, 5 speed, 179,000 miles, RWD Ltd. slip, Pacesetter header, 5 slot mags and NO muffler.

01-19-2006, 10:40 AM	#3 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	$66 for the axle shaft or the CV assembly? I need the axle.

01-19-2006, 11:41 AM	#5 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	Thanks for trying, but that's the wrong item. I need the left stub shaft that the CV half shaft bolts to.

01-19-2006, 07:36 PM	#7 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	Yes, I mean the side shaft. The FSM calls it the 'side gear shaft'. I always knew it as the stub shaft. The problem I've run into is that the previous owner never used the 4 wheel drive mode, so the oil and grease didn't get splashed on the parts inside the diff. As a result, condensation which formed inside the diff has caused rust pitting on the surface where the oil seal rides which is causing it to leak. The dealer wants $320 for a new shaft. Not going to happen. What I'm doing now is I'm going to chuck the shaft up in my lathe and polish the seal surface to see if I can get it smooth enough to seal properly again. As a fallback position, I'm hoping that someone who's done an SAS will have an old shaft laying around they might want to get rid of.

01-20-2006, 01:24 PM	#10 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons. The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.

01-20-2006, 03:05 PM	#12 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	That's what I'm going to try this weekend. I have some JB weld that I'm going to coat the area with, and then I'm going to polish it using my lathe and some fine emery paper. The pits are not that deep, so there's a chance they may polish out without the JB weld.

02-09-2006, 07:06 PM	#14 (permalink)
Radyota Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: St. Cloud, MN Posts: 210	Did this ever work out? __________________ '92 toyota Xtracab 4x4 pickup-3.0 v6,5 speed, 235/75 15" tires, intake "Y" hose and associated vacuum boxes eliminated,186,000 mi., engine almost together,Engnbldr's grade 10.9 head bolts, clutch now replaced w/Centerforce dual friction clutch. '84 toyota Supra P-type 5MGE inline 6, 5 speed, 179,000 miles, RWD Ltd. slip, Pacesetter header, 5 slot mags and NO muffler.

05-23-2006, 12:29 PM	#16 (permalink)
snap-on Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: STL MO Posts: 2,375	sounds like the CVs are just clicking, rebuild or replace. search CV removal for all the goodness __________________ 94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers 92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

05-23-2006, 05:08 PM	#17 (permalink)
leebee Contributing Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: marlbank, canada Posts: 1,593	this might help out: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18frontdri.pdf lee __________________ 93 sr5 v6 auto, 4x4, manual hubs, dayton timberline mt's 31 10.5 15's. http://tlca.org # 15118 www.of4wd.com # 2270 www.phoenixrising.ca

05-23-2006, 06:54 PM	#18 (permalink)
Rather Diesel Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 184	Try Pirate 4x4 if you can't fix it. About 96% of the Toyota guys run straight axles. Someone sent me all the torsion bar hardware for the price of the shipping. They just trash the stuff. Roy

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