Idle Issue

JEBSR5 · 02-12-2007, 02:05 PM

What is it with the 3slo idle? Maybe it's just me, but every vehicle I have ever owned that was fuel injected has had a rock solid idle once op temp was achieved.
My case, really no big deal, but I ask all you experienced people out there why is it I can set idle at rock solid 800 RPM and it stays there on 3 slo until I move the vehicle. Meaning from red light to red light the idle is never the same. It will vary from 600 to 900 RPM. Heck, sometimes it even goes a few lights at 800 RPM at rest or idle. Mine has always done this, so I figured normal for the 3 slo and no big deal, right. What's a few hundred RPM in the scheme of things?
My rig is in very good condition mechanically, engine wise anyway. Well maintained, clean intake and all the tune up maintenance.
Is it a crappy computer control involving the computer or is it crappy sensor or do all 3 slo's do this and I'm way off on calling it crappy.

Like I said, it's done this for 200k miles. Obvious choice to me would be IAC valve, but since you would have to buy a whole new throttle body to test that out, obviously my money tree is stunted this year and won't be producing for awhile yet. Any thoughts, dare I say debate or arguments?

Chime in anyone.

I would like to put this mystery to rest, since I will be DD'ing this rig for some time.

Maybe I'm just

, but I have searched and researched. Now it's time to rely on experience and wisdom.

Hey, good time for you MDT techs to chime in too. I'm about to

with this for living for so long with it.

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itsmeagain5789 · 02-12-2007, 02:17 PM

when mynes warm, it will idle down to 300 rpm and try to cut off, i still havent figured out whats up with it. it started yesterday. but myne is pretty well tuned also.

rdharper · 02-12-2007, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

What is it with the 3slo idle? Maybe it's just me, but every vehicle I have ever owned that was fuel injected has had a rock solid idle once op temp was achieved.
My case, really no big deal, but I ask all you experienced people out there why is it I can set idle at rock solid 800 RPM and it stays there on 3 slo until I move the vehicle. Meaning from red light to red light the idle is never the same. It will vary from 600 to 900 RPM. Heck, sometimes it even goes a few lights at 800 RPM at rest or idle. Mine has always done this, so I figured normal for the 3 slo and no big deal, right. What's a few hundred RPM in the scheme of things?
My rig is in very good condition mechanically, engine wise anyway. Well maintained, clean intake and all the tune up maintenance.
Is it a crappy computer control involving the computer or is it crappy sensor or do all 3 slo's do this and I'm way off on calling it crappy.

Like I said, it's done this for 200k miles. Obvious choice to me would be IAC valve, but since you would have to buy a whole new throttle body to test that out, obviously my money tree is stunted this year and won't be producing for awhile yet. Any thoughts, dare I say debate or arguments?

Chime in anyone.

I would like to put this mystery to rest, since I will be DD'ing this rig for some time.

Maybe I'm just

, but I have searched and researched. Now it's time to rely on experience and wisdom.

Hey, good time for you MDT techs to chime in too. I'm about to

with this for living for so long with it.

Disconnect the TPS connector (carefully), restart (you will throw a code which won't hurt anything). See if variable idling goes away. If so, the TPS is misadjusted or not working correctly, if no change in performance, reconnect the TPS... code will go away.

JEBSR5 · 02-12-2007, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsmeagain5789

when mynes warm, it will idle down to 300 rpm and try to cut off, i still havent figured out whats up with it. it started yesterday. but myne is pretty well tuned also.

Mine used to do that, but only when AC was on and it would kick up to 700 RPM or so and drop down again. Turned out the resistor block in front of radiator that routes power to AC fan was broke. After fixing that, all was well. Must have also fed some kick RPM up switch also. May not be your problem, but throwing that out there.

Maybe we can get some experienced comments in here and help us both out.

JEBSR5 · 02-12-2007, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

Disconnect the TPS connector (carefully), restart (you will throw a code which won't hurt anything). See if variable idling goes away. If so, the TPS is misadjusted or not working correctly, if no change in performance, reconnect the TPS... code will go away.

Haven't tried that specifically and the reason is that I have adjusted TPS twice with same results. Toyo mechanics have been unable to resolve either, I'm sure this has no bearing on the problem and only pointing out if they don't know, what do I know compared to them?

I think I read somewhere that you can drive quite a ways with it disconnected with no harm, but just checking before I try it.

rdharper · 02-12-2007, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

Haven't tried that specifically and the reason is that I have adjusted TPS twice with same results. Toyo mechanics have been unable to resolve either, I'm sure this has no bearing on the problem and only pointing out if they don't know, what do I know compared to them?

I think I read somewhere that you can drive quite a ways with it disconnected with no harm, but just checking before I try it.

In the case of the TPS you can disconnect it with no harm, guaranteed. One guy in Poland found that was the only way he could get his 2nd generation to run correctly. And the ECU he had, didn't care about the code (Poland doesn't have the same requirements as the US), so he is running that way to this day. I believe what the ECU does, is, knowing the TPS is disconneted, it is bypassed. If in, it will use the info.

MudHippy · 02-12-2007, 03:38 PM

No arguments, comedic over-tones, bordering on megalomaniacal tyranny, at times. These episodes, when merely periodic, can lead to "good" things. I'm out the door at this very moment, to start my truck. She'll need to warm, before I apply rdHarpers treatment. Thank you sir, by the way.

JEBSR5 · 02-12-2007, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

In the case of the TPS you can disconnect it with no harm, guaranteed. One guy in Poland found that was the only way he could get his 2nd generation to run correctly. And the ECU he had, didn't care about the code (Poland doesn't have the same requirements as the US), so he is running that way to this day. I believe what the ECU does, is, knowing the TPS is disconneted, it is bypassed. If in, it will use the info.

Good to know, I go out and unplug it and drive to work in the morning. Hopefully this will tell me something. I suppose if it works, then I have been driving for 200K for nothing just to find out that I may have a faulty TPS or possibly out of tolerance piece of electronic.

JEBSR5 · 02-12-2007, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MudHippy

No arguments, comedic over-tones, bordering on megalomaniacal tyrrany, at times. These episodes, when merely periodic, can lead to "good" things. I'm out the door at this very moment, to start my truck. She'll need to warm, before I apply rdHarpers treatment. Thank you sir, by the way.

MudHippy, you're alright. Wish I had that kind of attitude.

JEBSR5 · 02-14-2007, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

Disconnect the TPS connector (carefully), restart (you will throw a code which won't hurt anything). See if variable idling goes away. If so, the TPS is misadjusted or not working correctly, if no change in performance, reconnect the TPS... code will go away.

Disconnected TPS and other than high idle, really can't tell any difference. Not sure why it idles around 1200 RPM. I've adjusted it back to 800 RPM, but next trip its back to 1200.
Maybe if I could keep it at 800, I could tell a difference.

Any ideas on what is going on?

rdharper · 02-15-2007, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

Disconnected TPS and other than high idle, really can't tell any difference. Not sure why it idles around 1200 RPM. I've adjusted it back to 800 RPM, but next trip its back to 1200.
Maybe if I could keep it at 800, I could tell a difference.

Any ideas on what is going on?

Ok. Make sure your throttle is returning all the way against the stops. The dashpot could prevent that (probably not as you had the symptom from the begining). I think the ECU is seeing the open condition, rather than the short, when your throttle is physically in the idle condition.

Had the same symptoms with mine. I ended up adjusting the TPS with the engine running. The idle position is a knife edge. What I did, maybe not the recommended method, was to loosen the adjust screws just enough such that I could move the adjust. You should see the low rpm condion, and, then the high rpm condition. What you want (this is counterintuitive), is the point where the high rpm case just barely is caught at physical idle. Tighten it down, and then continue to bring the rpm down just the way you did when the TPS was disconnected, with the TB idle adjust.

After a few such adjusts of the rpm, the surging should be reduced to less than a hundred around 800 rpm. Which is what you wanted, if memory serves.

May take multiple adjusts down (maybe the ECU relearning, whatever) over some period of time. This is what mine did. Surging at idle should continue to go down at the same time. Mine now sits at 800, and stays within a 100rpm band now. Also, and this may be coincidental, as other minor changes I made in the same time period, (mostly fluids) my mpg went up one or two mpg over the same period.

LS1Steve · 02-15-2007, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

Disconnected TPS and other than high idle, really can't tell any difference. Not sure why it idles around 1200 RPM. I've adjusted it back to 800 RPM, but next trip its back to 1200.
Maybe if I could keep it at 800, I could tell a difference.

Any ideas on what is going on?

mine does the exact same thing, I haven't been able to figure it out either. at my last smog check the guy had to retard the hell out of my timing just to lower it for the test.

I can adjust the screw till it bottoms out and when driving around, rpm returns to about 1200. i'll be keeping an eye on this thread!

it is most likely the TPS, heres a link on how to check it, I haven't had time
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Introduction

MudHippy · 02-15-2007, 11:52 AM

Well, mine didn't need it. I was experiencing normal operation it seems, idle only varying 25 rpm +/- 800. I like to fiddle with things anyway. Previous owner had idle way misadjusted, looks like I got it without TPS trouble. Good to rule out.

JEBSR5 · 02-15-2007, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

Ok. Make sure your throttle is returning all the way against the stops. The dashpot could prevent that (probably not as you had the symptom from the begining). I think the ECU is seeing the open condition, rather than the short, when your throttle is physically in the idle condition.

Had the same symptoms with mine. I ended up adjusting the TPS with the engine running. The idle position is a knife edge. What I did, maybe not the recommended method, was to loosen the adjust screws just enough such that I could move the adjust. You should see the low rpm condion, and, then the high rpm condition. What you want (this is counterintuitive), is the point where the high rpm case just barely is caught at physical idle. Tighten it down, and then continue to bring the rpm down just the way you did when the TPS was disconnected, with the TB idle adjust.

After a few such adjusts of the rpm, the surging should be reduced to less than a hundred around 800 rpm. Which is what you wanted, if memory serves.

May take multiple adjusts down (maybe the ECU relearning, whatever) over some period of time. This is what mine did. Surging at idle should continue to go down at the same time. Mine now sits at 800, and stays within a 100rpm band now. Also, and this may be coincidental, as other minor changes I made in the same time period, (mostly fluids) my mpg went up one or two mpg over the same period.

I'll have to try it the way you are describing as I have tried the adjustment LS1Steve suggests in next post and checked twice after tightening screws and after mounting back on plenum. It's adjusted right according to those spec's, but it may be worn and can't be adjusted the conventional way thus indicating a need to be replaced. If it weren't so high, I would be willing to buy a new one to get it right on the money, so to speak. Yes, you are correct on the dashpot as that was the first thing I checked and it's not causing any problem.

JEBSR5 · 02-23-2007, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

Ok. Make sure your throttle is returning all the way against the stops. The dashpot could prevent that (probably not as you had the symptom from the begining). I think the ECU is seeing the open condition, rather than the short, when your throttle is physically in the idle condition.

Had the same symptoms with mine. I ended up adjusting the TPS with the engine running. The idle position is a knife edge. What I did, maybe not the recommended method, was to loosen the adjust screws just enough such that I could move the adjust. You should see the low rpm condion, and, then the high rpm condition. What you want (this is counterintuitive), is the point where the high rpm case just barely is caught at physical idle. Tighten it down, and then continue to bring the rpm down just the way you did when the TPS was disconnected, with the TB idle adjust.

After a few such adjusts of the rpm, the surging should be reduced to less than a hundred around 800 rpm. Which is what you wanted, if memory serves.

May take multiple adjusts down (maybe the ECU relearning, whatever) over some period of time. This is what mine did. Surging at idle should continue to go down at the same time. Mine now sits at 800, and stays within a 100rpm band now. Also, and this may be coincidental, as other minor changes I made in the same time period, (mostly fluids) my mpg went up one or two mpg over the same period.

Tried this approach today. What a difference. I will attest that I definately had it adjusted right. Checked before changing anything and all specs were right on. With that in mind, loosened screws and adjusted knife edge and bingo. Works much better now. I have no idea what this indicates as far as being correctly adjusted according to OHM's, but being much better with knife edge motor running adjustment, unless OHM meter is way off.

TNRabbit · 02-23-2007, 01:21 PM

I'm going to throw this out; two other situations can cause erratic idle:

1. Crud can build up where the throttle body plate seats against the wall and allow additional air thru at idle. It only shows up after hot becuase the ECU is throwing additional fuel (cold start injector) into the engine before then, which masks a lot of these type problems.

2. Vacuum leaks are VERY common with the fourteen thousand miles of vacuum hose on these things. Go all over the hoses with an UNLIT propane torch; if it idles up when you pass over a spot, you have a leak there.

Good luck.

JEBSR5 · 02-23-2007, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNRabbit

I'm going to throw this out; two other situations can cause erratic idle:

1. Crud can build up where the throttle body plate seats against the wall and allow additional air thru at idle. It only shows up after hot becuase the ECU is throwing additional fuel (cold start injector) into the engine before then, which masks a lot of these type problems.

2. Vacuum leaks are VERY common with the fourteen thousand miles of vacuum hose on these things. Go all over the hoses with an UNLIT propane torch; if it idles up when you pass over a spot, you have a leak there.

Good luck.

Wise words, but
1. Clean as a whistle.
2. All hoses checked and some where replaced, although not leaking they were replaced due to age and hard as a rock in danger of breaking. No leaks found.

I'm having no problems with idle after knife edge method.

rdharper · 02-23-2007, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

Tried this approach today. What a difference. I will attest that I definately had it adjusted right. Checked before changing anything and all specs were right on. With that in mind, loosened screws and adjusted knife edge and bingo. Works much better now. I have no idea what this indicates as far as being correctly adjusted according to OHM's, but being much better with knife edge motor running adjustment, unless OHM meter is way off.

It would be of some interest to see what the measurements are set to now. I'm sure they are VERY close to the spec method of setting the adjustment.

Could have made that check myself, but frankly, once I'd done the adjustement this simple way, and it worked, I didn't care what the "spec" said. The idea came from buying a working inexpensive TPS and understanding how it works and what it does.

Mine continues to work just fine, after 8 months or so.

JEBSR5 · 03-16-2007, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdharper

It would be of some interest to see what the measurements are set to now. I'm sure they are VERY close to the spec method of setting the adjustment.

Could have made that check myself, but frankly, once I'd done the adjustement this simple way, and it worked, I didn't care what the "spec" said. The idea came from buying a working inexpensive TPS and understanding how it works and what it does.

Mine continues to work just fine, after 8 months or so.

Was going to check those settings this weekend, but ran into a snag today. Went to start the vehicle and wouldn't start, turned over OK and acted like it wanted to start, but wouldn't. Checked ignitor, coil connections by removing and plugging back in. That didn't work, removed top of air cleaner (AFM) reached in and moved vane, it was OK then tried to start and it did. Got home and pulled one code (51). Not sure, but I think I may still have a TPS problem. No AC was on.

It's run fine since adjustment and last post date above using RDHarpers method of adjustment on TPS. It's actually ran better than it ever has since I have owned it, til today. Still runs, just this incident and code.

Not sure where to proceed from here.

Oh yeah, the above connections were cleaned and lubed due to similar incident awhile back from a similar code about something didn't receive rpm trigger for a period of time. Don't remember code, but the symptoms above were the same each time.

Mr. Harper, thanks for the education on TPS. It's never ran better and I think it could be possibly bad TPS at this point, waiting to hear some input on this latest development.

As I said, it runs fine now, but this is the second time it has acted this way in maybe 2 months.

rdharper · 03-16-2007, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

That didn't work, removed top of air cleaner (AFM) reached in and moved vane, it was OK then tried to start and it did. Got home and pulled one code (51). Not sure, but I think I may still have a TPS problem. No AC was on.

It's run fine since adjustment and last post date above using RDHarpers method of adjustment on TPS. It's actually ran better than it ever has since I have owned it, til today. Still runs, just this incident and code.

Not sure where to proceed from here.

Oh yeah, the above connections were cleaned and lubed due to similar incident awhile back from a similar code about something didn't receive rpm trigger for a period of time. Don't remember code, but the symptoms above were the same each time.

Mr. Harper, thanks for the education on TPS. It's never ran better and I think it could be possibly bad TPS at this point, waiting to hear some input on this latest development.

As I said, it runs fine now, but this is the second time it has acted this way in maybe 2 months.

51 could be the TPS although I never got that code. I think you have another unrelated problem. But while you are on it, don't forget you can simply disconnect the TPS. It will then throw a code, but if the TPS is the problem, the vehicle will start and run fine with the TPS connector disconnected.

I'm wondering about the AFM. I never had a problem with the one on my '94 3vze, but I did have problems with the one on my '85 22rec. They work identically, and they do "wear out", as their is a phenolic plate with a little arm on it that acts as the pickup to tell the ECM where the gate is. If that information is not right due to wear on the phenolic plate that is being "read", then you will get odd symptoms, sometimes making the vehicle undriveable until the AFM is replaced.

The AFM is an expensive part, so following the checks available in the FSM, probably in Chilton's and probably available somewhere in this forum, is worth doing. They are easy if you can use a DVM. Note that if it is starting to wear, the problem may not show up except in a slow sweep from closed to open. In that case you are looking for a "jump" in the reading indicating a discontinuity in the contact to phenolic plate.

JEBSR5 · 03-16-2007, 04:19 PM

Found my FSM and code 51 is "switch signal" for system, diagnose was "air conditoner switch on, idle switch off during diagnosis check" and trouble area is "a/c switch, a/c switch circuit, a/c amlifire (how it's spelled in manual), throttle positon sensor circuit, throttle position sensor, ecu."

AC was not on at any time during diagnostic or during no start.

Last time it had this symptom was code 12 "rpm signal for system and diagnose "no ne and g signal to ecu witin 2 seconds after the engine cranked". Trouble area was distributor circuit, distributor, start signal circuit, ecu. Cleaning fixed it that time, but this time didn't help.

Code 12 turned out, I thought to be fixed by cleaning connections to coil and ignitor. Didn't get that code this time, so that cleaning could have fixed the code 12.

Former had same symptoms, but different code.

None of this points to AFM, but fooling with it by moving leads to maybe misconception it is AFM.

I don't know.

dlbrunner · 03-16-2007, 04:21 PM

unless she is blowing white smoke, thank the 3.0 gods it is keeping it's oil and water seperate.

Mine idles up and down a little too, but I chalk it up to needing a tune up, or the inherent 3.slojuju

rdharper · 03-16-2007, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBSR5

Found my FSM and code 51 is "switch signal" for system, diagnose was "air conditoner switch on, idle switch off during diagnosis check" and trouble area is "a/c switch, a/c switch circuit, a/c amlifire (how it's spelled in manual), throttle positon sensor circuit, throttle position sensor, ecu."

AC was not on at any time during diagnostic or during no start.

Last time it had this symptom was code 12 "rpm signal for system and diagnose "no ne and g signal to ecu witin 2 seconds after the engine cranked". Trouble area was distributor circuit, distributor, start signal circuit, ecu. Cleaning fixed it that time, but this time didn't help.

Code 12 turned out, I thought to be fixed by cleaning connections to coil and ignitor. Didn't get that code this time, so that cleaning could have fixed the code 12.

Former had same symptoms, but different code.

None of this points to AFM, but fooling with it by moving leads to maybe misconception it is AFM.

I don't know.

Two more thoughts. The codes don't always point you in the right direction... in fact that is understating it. This is partly because something can cause a problem which the ECM tries to compensate for, causing something else to "code".

Also, if it is the AFM, it will get worse with time, finally to the point where you are lucky to get it through an intersection when the problem shows up.

Thought you said you moved the plate. If so, that would have moved the pickup from the discontinous point (if there is one). So next time you get a no-start, try that again, as it is relatively easy to do. Also, you may notice hiccups while driving from the same problem... which would get more common with time. So that is my experience with the AFM.

In my own case, when I was finally convinced it was the AFM, I dug out the RTV and lifted the black rubber plate on top. Once that was off, it was obvious what the problem was. The resistive plate the contact slides on as the gate moves, had a groove worn in it. So, as I said, if that is the problem, you will have lots of further head-scratching opportunities. If the problem doesn't change, then you can figure its something else.

I could not fix the internal plate, although I tried, finally paying full retail to make sure I got a new one, as it was clear they wear out. In the case of the '85, there was 200k on it. So they last a long time (one way to look at it).

Jay351 · 03-16-2007, 05:15 PM

My truck likes to do that.

Will usually stick around 1000rpm but somtimes at a light it will stay at 1100-1200. or after I turn it on after a longer trip it will idle at 600-800.

Truck has a fresh tune up and whatnot, always thought it was normal as the truck runs great........great for a 3.slow anyways

JEBSR5 · 03-16-2007, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay351

My truck likes to do that.

Will usually stick around 1000rpm but somtimes at a light it will stay at 1100-1200. or after I turn it on after a longer trip it will idle at 600-800.

Truck has a fresh tune up and whatnot, always thought it was normal as the truck runs great........great for a 3.slow anyways

Funny you should mention that, mine does that also. Runs great, idles a little high on cooler mornings, even after 50 miles. Later in the day it settles down to 800rpm. I just always figured the coolant senser was loosing it's values from age or something. I know it's getting good flow around it, checked that.

Don't know if that type sensor can deteriate slowly or not, but sures makes sense. Probably not true though.

02-12-2007, 02:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
itsmeagain5789 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 243	when mynes warm, it will idle down to 300 rpm and try to cut off, i still havent figured out whats up with it. it started yesterday. but myne is pretty well tuned also. __________________ Ed New rig - 2007 Silver Tacoma Double Cab 4x4 trd offroad, roofrack, tacoma weather mats, dealer alarm, bed/reverse lights, cb, Toytec 3 inch with 885's, aal's, dif drop, and shims 265/75/r16 cooper discover stt's on stock rim, custom made sliders, rear dif breather mod Former rig (SOLD. she will be missed) - 95 4x4 4runner 3.0 auto 161,000 miles ram off road grille guard and 2 pro comp 55 w lights. 1.5 inch rear springs from allpro offroad 32x11.50 bfg mud terrain(byebye gas mileage)

02-12-2007, 03:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
MudHippy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: The Realm Of Fecal Cohesion Posts: 2,014	No arguments, comedic over-tones, bordering on megalomaniacal tyranny, at times. These episodes, when merely periodic, can lead to "good" things. I'm out the door at this very moment, to start my truck. She'll need to warm, before I apply rdHarpers treatment. Thank you sir, by the way. Last edited by MudHippy; 02-12-2007 at 04:44 PM.

03-16-2007, 04:19 PM	#21 (permalink)
JEBSR5 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: TN native stuck in AL Posts: 256	Found my FSM and code 51 is "switch signal" for system, diagnose was "air conditoner switch on, idle switch off during diagnosis check" and trouble area is "a/c switch, a/c switch circuit, a/c amlifire (how it's spelled in manual), throttle positon sensor circuit, throttle position sensor, ecu." AC was not on at any time during diagnostic or during no start. Last time it had this symptom was code 12 "rpm signal for system and diagnose "no ne and g signal to ecu witin 2 seconds after the engine cranked". Trouble area was distributor circuit, distributor, start signal circuit, ecu. Cleaning fixed it that time, but this time didn't help. Code 12 turned out, I thought to be fixed by cleaning connections to coil and ignitor. Didn't get that code this time, so that cleaning could have fixed the code 12. Former had same symptoms, but different code. None of this points to AFM, but fooling with it by moving leads to maybe misconception it is AFM. I don't know. __________________ 90 4R SR5 4WD 5SPD 3VZE 211K miles '69 Ford Mustang Mach I '82 Suzuki GS1100E '68 Chevelle SS396 '99 1/2 Pathfinder LE

03-16-2007, 04:21 PM	#22 (permalink)
dlbrunner Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: phoenix Posts: 1,141	unless she is blowing white smoke, thank the 3.0 gods it is keeping it's oil and water seperate. Mine idles up and down a little too, but I chalk it up to needing a tune up, or the inherent 3.slojuju __________________ Duncan -------------------------------------------------- Current: 95 4X4 SR5 V6, Yakima tracks/rack installed. Aisin hubs. Sonoran Steel IFS Truss. Cobra CB(finally!) Desired: 66 FJ45 shorty EX's: 89 4X4 V6 Downey'd 72 FJ40 W 350/SM465 powertrax, "Billy"

03-16-2007, 05:15 PM	#24 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,630	My truck likes to do that. Will usually stick around 1000rpm but somtimes at a light it will stay at 1100-1200. or after I turn it on after a longer trip it will idle at 600-800. Truck has a fresh tune up and whatnot, always thought it was normal as the truck runs great........great for a 3.slow anyways __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

02-15-2007, 11:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
MudHippy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: The Realm Of Fecal Cohesion Posts: 2,014	Well, mine didn't need it. I was experiencing normal operation it seems, idle only varying 25 rpm +/- 800. I like to fiddle with things anyway. Previous owner had idle way misadjusted, looks like I got it without TPS trouble. Good to rule out.

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22RE Idle Issue	blb	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	5	01-02-2006 02:32 PM
22RE idle issue?	dave151	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	3	10-24-2005 12:48 PM
idle issue	jayson161	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	5	12-13-2004 08:57 PM
Idle spped issue	markjs	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	8	01-03-2004 02:32 AM