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Identify this wire and harness - power window issues
87 SR5 Turbo. I just started messing with my malfunctioning power windows. None work. They will all work with power jumpered straight to the motors though. I am trying to narrow this down to a bad ground or broken connection. Before I start I came across this harness which I have no idea about. its not connected to anything, nor is there anything nearby it would connect to. what is it for? Drivers side kick panel
I also came across this wire by the ECU that looks as if it were crimped, extended and connected to something, but the connector looks broken off and corroded. I see nothing that it previously connected to though. Unless it was connected to the ECU mounting bracket, I wouldn't know I wasn't the one that took it off, it was like this when I got it. Black/wht w/red stripes
I checked the FSM schematics and couldn't locate this stuff, any help appreciated..
I can hear the relay behind the drivers seat in the rear panel clicking when I try to roll either front windows down.. frustrating
Last edited by voiddweller; 10-29-2015 at 04:12 PM.
Do you have power locks? This pic shows the door lock computer.
Door lock computer, in red box.
The connector (D15) to the door lock computer is 14-pin; the one in your hand looks like it has more.
The door lock computer does contain the timer that allows you to raise the windows for about 30 seconds after key-off, UNLESS you open a door.
If your door locks work, that's not it.
The RH door switch comes in on a R-W wire (but that one looks fatter than I recall the door switch wires to be).
Have you check for power TO the power window master switch? Pin 9 on P5; the power comes from the Door Lock computer. If the R-W wire IS the door switch, with it disconnected the computer thinks the door is always closed, so that shouldn't be an issue. If it's grounded, though, the computer will think a door is open and you cannot operate the windows.
If you can't get power to Pin 9, you could just jumper it in off the acc. circuit. You'll be able to open and close your windows with the doors open!
Identify this wire and harness - power window issues
Originally Posted by scope103
Do you have power locks? This pic shows the door lock computer.
Door lock computer, in red box.
The connector (D15) to the door lock computer is 14-pin; the one in your hand looks like it has more.
The door lock computer does contain the timer that allows you to raise the windows for about 30 seconds after key-off, UNLESS you open a door.
If your door locks work, that's not it.
The RH door switch comes in on a R-W wire (but that one looks fatter than I recall the door switch wires to be).
Have you check for power TO the power window master switch? Pin 9 on P5; the power comes from the Door Lock computer. If the R-W wire IS the door switch, with it disconnected the computer thinks the door is always closed, so that shouldn't be an issue. If it's grounded, though, the computer will think a door is open and you cannot operate the windows.
If you can't get power to Pin 9, you could just jumper it in off the acc. circuit. You'll be able to open and close your windows with the doors open!
Yeah I was thinking about just wiring it straight. Yes I have door locks and they work.. Door computer is on the right side by the ecu.
Electrical problems make my brain hurt.
I'm thinking, do the rear and both fronts go through that clicking relay I'm hearing behind the driver's seat left cargo panel?
I checked the power coming to the door at the plug to the motor and its getting 12v. Jumped and grounded the motor and the window goes up and down just fine..
The door control box by the ecu makes it click back there when you move it around but I can't isolate the faulty connection causing the short, if that's even it. I don't see a ground anywhere behind the ecu either
Possible that both switches on each door are faulty? If they were I wouldn't hear a relay clicking though would I?
Last edited by voiddweller; 10-29-2015 at 04:43 PM.
Identify this wire and harness - power window issues
Originally Posted by scope103
Do you have power locks? This pic shows the door lock computer.
If you can't get power to Pin 9, you could just jumper it in off the acc. circuit. You'll be able to open and close your windows with the doors open!
I'm trying to figure out how to just jump it from the acc circuit. Basically just draw power off a 12v line via splice, but I don't know which wire to feed it into the switch at. I'm baffled. I don't suppose you could explain? Would I need to bring in a different ground?
Last edited by voiddweller; 10-30-2015 at 03:57 PM.
You really need to find out what is wrong. You're off to a good start by testing the motor. Let's test the wiring back to the Master switch in the Left door.
Here's the schematic:
Power Window
Here's the layout of the plug to the switch:
master Window Switch Plug
With the plug out of the switch, I'd put 12v on 3 and 4, to see if the driver's window motor works. I'd put 12v on 10 and 7 to see if the passenger side motor spun.
Last, I'd look for 12v on pin 9, with key on and door closed. If I didn't get it, I'd try to figure out why. But you could just cut that wire and power it directly. Again, first you want to see if it works, only then would you consider making it permanent.
You really need to find out what is wrong. You're off to a good start by testing the motor. Let's test the wiring back to the Master switch in the Left door.
Here's the schematic:
Power Window
Here's the layout of the plug to the switch:
master Window Switch Plug
With the plug out of the switch, I'd put 12v on 3 and 4, to see if the driver's window motor works. I'd put 12v on 10 and 7 to see if the passenger side motor spun.
Last, I'd look for 12v on pin 9, with key on and door closed. If I didn't get it, I'd try to figure out why. But you could just cut that wire and power it directly. Again, first you want to see if it works, only then would you consider making it permanent.
Tried everything you suggested, no power to anything in the door except the panel light.. I'm stumped. Not sure about splicing power to pin 9. Jumping power to 3,4 returned nil, same with 10,7. I did it straight from the battery..
If 12v to the L-G and L-Y wires (pins 3 & 4) won't spin a known-good motor, the only possibility is a broken/disconnected wire. You're looking at each end of a wire (with a known color). Use your multimeter to determine which of the two wires is not-continuous.
If 12v to the L-G and L-Y wires (pins 3 & 4) won't spin a known-good motor, the only possibility is a broken/disconnected wire. You're looking at each end of a wire (with a known color). Use your multimeter to determine which of the two wires is not-continuous.
I'll be planning to get started on that in a few days, I'll report back with my findings. I'm guessing it's a broken connection somewhere. The PO of this 4runner had some questionable practices. I found one harness on the door control module behind the passenger kick panel had a couple wires hard soldered into the connector instead of properly installing a pin connector. You have to wonder when you find solder beads under the carpet.. Ha. I'll probably rebuild the connector there then start on the continuity tests.
Hard to find time these days. Gotta help my 70 year old mom move, find a house to buy for my family. Etc.. Work work work.
10-29-2015, 03:27 PM
