ewong

FROF Front Frame Brace

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/front-frame-brace/

Instead - the shop I use, welded shorter stub plates in to both sides...

Oh well


Drivers side - repaired

Drivers side - pre repair

Tapping the hole - drivers side

Passenger side - repaired

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I hope you had that done for almost free!!

I would be embarrassed to let work out of my shop looking that bad.

I hope it holds up for you

ewong

Yeah - it aint no stack o dimes.

Its also welding to kinda rusty steel.
Ideally it should have been cut apart and more steel welded in. Probably more trouble than its worth.

As long as it functions

I probably want to look for a clean frame instead...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The thing is when A shop takes on a job even it is free even worse when one pays it should be done right .

Even if it means doing much more work then was planned

Not knowing the whole story like they owe you a pile of money and this is the only way you get anything back

Better Start Hunting for a Frame West of I55 and South of I40 if that is the way your planning to go.

fierohink

Seriously for about the same effort and cost they could have hacked out the whole lower rad crossmember and replace it with square tube.

ewong

That bar is part of the actual frame - it holds the left and right sides in alignment
Cutting it IMHO means a new alignment etc.

The "better" option, had I known, is to use the FROF patch panel.

Ideally, I would pull everything back off again. and really grind away at the front cross member, and then weld in the FROF panel.... while searching for a clean frame.

That weld is enough to hold things together for a bit.
Its a weekend "on road" vehicle, not a daily driver (I actually ride my bicycle to work most days)

fierohink

I'm well aware that the lower rad support is a frame member. I might know my way around these frames.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/

You are defending a sloppy job at maintaining structural integrity on a weekend warrior by not wanting to spend $75 on an alignment that you probably wouldn't need of you measured before and after you cut and spliced.

As has been said, welds need clean steel to be effective and durable. Your shop bolted a support to a flange with bad metal as a base.

Good luck to you. I would find a different shop for future repairs.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You do know The piece you linked to is for added support for a winch bumper that might really get used instead of looking fancy at the mall

ewong

Indeed I do.

Brian / FROF makes some neat HD parts / axle housings etc.

The "booger weld" patch is just to keep things together until I cut the mess out and get the FROF piece welded in.

BTW - only the front corners of the frame were rusted bad.
I had a Downey front skid on there, and the corners of the frame were exposed to the NorthEast Road Salt in the winters (and I drove ALOT in the winter).
The rest of the frame metal is in decent shape, including the top and bottom of that cross member, and the front of the cross member in the middle.

Thanks for all the feedback with respect to the truck.