_RaStA_RoCkEt_

The switch was illuminated, so yea... it had that 'second' line.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

I'm so glad you posted this! I know it's somewhere... I just don't know where to find it, YET. Damn you Parasitic Draw!
However, it's worth noting that it wasn't an INSTANT drop, it was after I tried to crank the key 2-3 times, for 2-3 seconds each.

...BACK-FEEDING GROUNDS WITH VOLTAGE!I ...This has been my longest standing belief about the issue I currently face. I fear that my parasitic draw is from a "cooked" or "deinsulated" wire somewhere up in the cab, which likely happened after the massive jolt the system took in Late May/Early April from the H.I.D. mis-wiring.

...this is a good call. However, I'm of the mind that my battery is O.K. since it checked at over 12.6 after resting all night... I'll do this next.

Charchee

Oh, but you miss the point here. An internally damaged battery can hold 12.5V for weeks with no draw on it and then drop to 1V when you hit the starter. Everybody has to learn this lesson once. I learned well after troubleshooting a tree cutter for almost a week in the rain. I went from one end of the system to the other knee deep in mud looking for a "parasitic draw" only to go back to my batteries on Friday and watching the meter while we tried to crank it. One battery was fine. The other actually showed negative voltage when cranking. I threw a new set of batteries on it and it hasn't quit again since. That 2V drop you described is a classic symptom. A load tester at the parts house is just going to measure voltage with a load on the battery. You can do it home with your meter if you have someone to crank the truck while you watch the meter.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Bruh, you were so right. It was a battery issue. Tested mine last night at a shop. "Internally Damaged" was the result. Bought a new "Sure Start" or whatever O'Reily's had, and BAM. Right back in action.


Ironically, I had this feeling when I watched my In-Cab SR5 cluster voltmeter TANK when I put the key to the starter. Drop from 15-14V to 10-9V immediately.

I really appreciate it!

Charchee

And that's why you always start at the battery.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

...Hmm, this problem seems to have returned.

I haven't driven the truck in 2 days, and now it's 100% dead. Like, no lights or anything 'dead.'

The battery tests at 1.00 volts with a DMM. TOTALLY flat, from an operating 12.6v+ as reg'd on the Voltmeter in an SR5 cluster 2 days prior.

I KNOW there's gotta be a HUGE draw somewhere, I just need to find it.
Fortunately, the battery is new (+2-3mo) and I've got the 1yr warranty to get 'er re-charged... then time to start diagnosing.

Ho-hum. Dead truck yet again.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

After you recharge the battery !!

Perhaps disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to you find and repair your drain

I think you might want to look at relays with contacts melted closed .

Most of the coils are operated on switched power.

Have you had a Cook out for the local fire department yet ??

Kinda get to know them event

RAD4Runner

QUICK, SIMPLE AND IMPORTANT CHECK that I don't Think you've done yet.
With all circuits off, disconnect "B" Wire from the alt output screw terminal (shown below).
Measure resistance between that screw terminal and ground. It should be in multiples of mega-ohms. Let us know what you get.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Thanks SO much for coming back and aiding me, man. I really appreciate it. I don't mean to have been a fool, but feel I was.

I'll get right on this when I get home.

RAD4Runner

Can't wait to see results. BTW, I haven't had time to read the whole thread so... Have you measured total resistance between battery connector (disconnected from battery) and ground? If you haven't yet, pls do.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

haha.

I'm trying to decipher the snark from the serious!

I'm definitely trying to repair the drain... I don't really know were to start other than using the DMM to bridge the gap of (-) and ground, and then pulling fuses 1-by-1 to see if there's a jump.

So far, my engine fuse-box has checked out. I'll double check it though. It MAY be an under-dash fuse, but last I checked, they were good.

I read a IH8 thread that described the ignition switch itself (in the column, where the key goes) being faulty. I think this may be a good call, since when I wired the stupid H.I.D., I grounded the direct battery voltage there, and the resistance was what burnt out that ground wire... which was attached to the column brace just next to the keyed ignition.

Any thoughts?

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

I believe I have... but I may be mistaken on the process. Isn't it done with DMM and 20v setting? looking for spikes in draw as you unplug different fuses?

Again, thanks man. Seems you're the resident electro-wizard here.

RAD4Runner

LOL!

Good approach.
Not sure if we have same wiring, because I have an 86... but pls check for 12V at noted points. There should be none after the ignition switch (in oval) with switch is OFF.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Killer, a diagram!

So, just to be sure;
(After installing the newly recharged battery)
1) I'm to find these wires (color coded as per the diagram) and then put the (+) of my DMM on these, with it on 12V setting?
2) I'm to put the (-) DMM ground to an unpainted, uninsulated chassis bolt (e.g. seat bolt)?
3) ANY spike at all, with the ignition switch OFF (even key out) should be a suspected circuit.

RAD4Runner

That's the idea. This will only check your ignition switch.
There are still wire runs ("A", "B", and "C" in diagram) that will have 12V even with ignition off.
Anyway, we'll sort this out somehow. Just do it methodically and record your results.

You have a 94, though so wiring and colors may not be same.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I still am willing to bet on a relay with fused contacts

Allowing a circuit to be energized when it should not be.

Prior to the light adventure was any other electrical work attempted that may have been forgotten about ??



A short to ground would keep drawing till the wire opened or if a protected circuit until the protection opened

What other electrical circuits don`t work ??

In all honesty I really wish I was close enough to look at this up close and in person