simpsons721

Well first off i feel like im gonna fail the test for emmisions in coloardao

does anyone have any good tips that may help my vehicle pass

does changing you oil help?

My gas mileage sucks around 15 mpg and im thinking my vacuum hoses are leaky im gonna try carb cleaning them to check for leaks

and my engine light is on for an egr code so that doesn't make me feel good

please help ill probably go in later today

abecedarian

Clear the CEL by disconnecting the battery for a minute or two before you get to the inspection- the will probably fail you for it. After it's cleared, avoid driving constant speed for any significant distance so the light doesn't come back on.
I've heard some people suggest having as little fuel as possible in the tank and adding a few ounces of acetone or methanol to the tank helps as well.

simpsons721

ya i can just pull the efi fuse to clear the engine light

Innervision

I am in CT and we have emissions testing as well. My CEL was on for the EGR and they passed me. Since we (<1996) don't have OBD-II they could only pass or fail me based on tailpipe sniffer. It was funny to watch the Tech try to hook up the OBD-II connector under my dash though.

If you want the light out you can get a 10 ohm resister at radio shack for $.99 and put it in the pigtail. This will turn the CEL light off after a few minutes of running. Won’t fix the EGR problem but will make the CEL go off. Not sure if you have inspection as well as testing but if they don’t look under the hood you might get away with a resistor.

75k5toy

First, you go get a pre-test, that way if it does't pass it won't go into the sistem, Idk in your state but here on calimex, some guys can even report you as a gross polluter. good luck.

simpsons721

ya all they can test is the tailpipe i just want to get the service light off because i guess they note it during inspection

sb5walker

Best way to pass is make sure the engine is running right. That includes normal tune-up stuff like new denso plugs, cap, rotor, wires (if cracked, hard/inflexible, tracked up with carbon), Toyota air filter, adjust idle to 800, set timing to 10 deg btdc with jumper set, then idle can go up to as high as 900 if it runs better that way.

Changing the oil will help a lot - but not with passing the emissions test. Just with keeping your motor from dying a premature death.

Even before replacing the tune-up parts, pull the air hose and check the throttle body (open the throttle & check the back of the butterfly valve). If needed, clean the throttle body with a throttle body cleaner & toothbrush & rags, getting the back of the butterfly & give several shots of cleaner into the upper and lower air bypasses (the holes in front of the butterfly above & below). It's easier to do this with the TB off the vehicle, and don't get cleaner on tps - solvent can kill it. While you're at it, check the tps per fsm spec - that also should be done with throttle body off the vehicle. If IDL doesn't ground to E2 when throttle closed, try adjusting its position. If you can't get continuity, the tps must be replaced. Use a new gasket to reattach the TB and be sure to use appropriate torque, which is not a lot - check fsm. While you have the multimeter handy, check the VAFM also. Check the air hose carefully for cracks.

If the O2 sensor has over 90k miles or if your old plugs were black with carbon, replace the sensor with a direct-fit denso. Check sparkplugs.com or get the denso part # from there & search amazon for denso plus the part # - they've been real cheap there this year.

Check for vacuum leaks by passing an unlit propane torch along all the vacuum lines (including the one to the power brake booster) and along the joints in the intake & throttle body, listening for an increase in idle speed.

Then, fix what's wrong. You'll need that EGR working if you want to pass the NOX portion of the test. Search the forum here for tips on troubleshooting that.

One thing that can help a lot is to clean injectors by dropping a bottle of a good polyether amine injector cleaner in the tank and running it through. Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner has the most PEA; CRC's Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula is next best.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but none of that is terribly difficult, though it will take some time. But you wont pass emissions if the motor isn't running right, and also, fixing it will give you more power and better gas mileage, saving you money in the long run.

These threads might contain some useful info:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-help-180853/
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=300515

Steve777

IIRC, in Colorado your engine light needs to come on when the key is turned to on, and needs to go off after the engine starts. If it doesn't you won't pass. I'm not even sure if they run the rest of the test in these cases. So you need to get whatever is causing the engine light to stay on fixed.

Going through and doing a full tune-up and clearing up all problems is well worth it, not only in passing the test, but it will pay for itself in gas saved in a short time...