I need some news ideas on a unique missfire.
03-09-2015, 07:31 PM
#21
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Some cool compact ones online for ~$100. Thinking about it.
I did that rough test with the incandescent + LED, but damn, actual numbers would be nice.
Picking up another compression tester tomorrow.
03-09-2015, 07:47 PM
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That doesn't sound like a lot, but that could be the difference between a dribbling injector and one with acceptable fuel atomization.
You've already hinted at that when you mentioned "I saw a small pool of oil in the intake leading to cylinder 1." That might not have been oil, but rather a puddled accumulation of crap dissolved in fuel, if that injector weren't spraying properly.
You've already hinted at that when you mentioned "I saw a small pool of oil in the intake leading to cylinder 1." That might not have been oil, but rather a puddled accumulation of crap dissolved in fuel, if that injector weren't spraying properly.
03-09-2015, 08:01 PM
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03-09-2015, 08:10 PM
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But they are connecteed to engine management
A restricted ground will cause the voltage to find an alternate path, usually by backfeeding other circuits, which affect how they are interpreted by the ecu, not to mention the effects on the ecu itself. That ground in my runner caused a brutally hard sub-zero start, long cranking time during any start, a severe lack of power, and eventually disrupted the ignition signal so bad the rev limiter would engage below 2000 rpm.
Grounds are insidious, and should never be overlooked. Remember the issue is inside the crimped connection, not the bolt connection.
Grounds are insidious, and should never be overlooked. Remember the issue is inside the crimped connection, not the bolt connection.
03-09-2015, 08:29 PM
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A restricted ground will cause the voltage to find an alternate path, usually by backfeeding other circuits, which affect how they are interpreted by the ecu, not to mention the effects on the ecu itself. That ground in my runner caused a brutally hard sub-zero start, long cranking time during any start, a severe lack of power, and eventually disrupted the ignition signal so bad the rev limiter would engage below 2000 rpm.
Grounds are insidious, and should never be overlooked. Remember the issue is inside the crimped connection, not the bolt connection.
Grounds are insidious, and should never be overlooked. Remember the issue is inside the crimped connection, not the bolt connection.
Will post up the results of these test over the next few days as I have time.
School is always in the way.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
03-09-2015, 08:36 PM
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Do that, and please get back to us here with the results. I suspect more than one vehicle on these boards is suffering from this very issue, and if it fixes five of them, I'm writing a "service bulletin" and begging them to sticky it.
03-09-2015, 10:24 PM
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I was in your boat, tested and replaced everything questionable in the engine bay when i rebuilt my 84 4runner engine I had a similar rough idle but smoothed out higher in the RPMs. Good spark, compression, injectors were clicking, i gave up and drove it the summer idling like poo. Fall comes around and I have it in the shop torn apart for winter doing hysteer, RUF, chevy springs, and some maintance things. First of this month i pull it out and she its idleing and running great. Only thing I can think of that I did that might have solved my issue was one of two things. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned wire connectors around my battery that I had moved when relocating my battery. Not saying this is the answer to your problem but worth a shot. new fuel filter and connector cleaning along with battery terminals wont hurt anything.
03-10-2015, 11:34 AM
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I was in your boat, tested and replaced everything questionable in the engine bay when i rebuilt my 84 4runner engine I had a similar rough idle but smoothed out higher in the RPMs. Good spark, compression, injectors were clicking, i gave up and drove it the summer idling like poo. Fall comes around and I have it in the shop torn apart for winter doing hysteer, RUF, chevy springs, and some maintance things. First of this month i pull it out and she its idleing and running great. Only thing I can think of that I did that might have solved my issue was one of two things. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned wire connectors around my battery that I had moved when relocating my battery. Not saying this is the answer to your problem but worth a shot. new fuel filter and connector cleaning along with battery terminals wont hurt anything.
03-10-2015, 11:57 AM
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it was on just one cylinder cant remember if it was 1 or 2(was last summer) and it went away almost completely right above idle like 1200-1300 RPMs. My friend that was there with me observing said it was on two cylinders before I re soldered the Y connector in the injector harness, but I don't believe it would idle at all on two cylinders and I recall it always being only one cylinder. Also the spark plug on that cylinder was abnormally dry if you cleaned it then let it idle for a long time and checked it that was what convinced me it was not getting fuel and to replace injectors that were not at fault. hope it helps
03-10-2015, 12:25 PM
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My 87 4Runner 22re is doing the exact same thing. I had the block rebuilt by engnbldr and am also running his street rv head. I've been dealing with this for months and am finally under the conclusion that it is mechanical. I'm in the process of pulling the motor and taking it down to engnbldr to have him look at it.
03-10-2015, 12:30 PM
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@robm
Yea, running a street rv cam as well. Did you do a running compression test? or Leak down? I'm mostly messing with electrical now, and will do some more mechanical tests soon.
@
DHWRIGHT My plugs on number one aren't dry.. and I had switched the injector leads from injector 2 1 (I know the pulse would be slightly off, but not enough to stop it from running). It changed nothing.
Yea, running a street rv cam as well. Did you do a running compression test? or Leak down? I'm mostly messing with electrical now, and will do some more mechanical tests soon.
@
DHWRIGHT My plugs on number one aren't dry.. and I had switched the injector leads from injector 2 1 (I know the pulse would be slightly off, but not enough to stop it from running). It changed nothing.
Last edited by Runner4Luke; 03-10-2015 at 12:33 PM.
03-10-2015, 12:41 PM
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I sent my injectors in for service, twice. Checked my injector splices, all good. Checked everything electrical that the fsm lists. I swapped injectors around as well. My issue is #1 cylinder as well. Even tested the ecu. Talked to a few reputable shops and they kept saying focus on that one cylinder. Electrical and fuel pressure issues will affect all cylinders. I did not do a running compression test, but my dry test was 150 ish all across. Couldn't find any parts stores to rent a leak down test, but I did a pressure test through the cooling system and I could hear pretty massive air hiss coming from the head/block area up by #1 cylinder.
03-10-2015, 12:51 PM
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I sent my injectors in for service, twice. Checked my injector splices, all good. Checked everything electrical that the fsm lists. I swapped injectors around as well. My issue is #1 cylinder as well. Even tested the ecu. Talked to a few reputable shops and they kept saying focus on that one cylinder. Electrical and fuel pressure issues will affect all cylinders. I did not do a running compression test, but my dry test was 150 ish all across. Couldn't find any parts stores to rent a leak down test, but I did a pressure test through the cooling system and I could hear pretty massive air hiss coming from the head/block area up by #1 cylinder.
03-10-2015, 12:58 PM
#36
Is it running rough at idle? How are you determining it's #1? Pulling the plug wire while running or using a cylinder balance test on a scope? Speaking of scopes, have you checked the ignition pattern on a scope? Might be a good idea to hook it up to a scope to get you closer to the problem.
03-10-2015, 01:13 PM
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I noticed my exhaust was steamy, my coolant recovery tank would drop just a hair over night. When I assembled it I used an oem head gasket. After some time on the phone with Tod at engnbldr he suggested that maybe my timing cover was keeping the head off the block just enough around first cylinder. I addressed the timing cover and used his head gasket second time, last weekend. Put it all back together and no change. I too can pull #1 spark plug wire and it does not change the way it runs, pulling the others and it idles considerably worse.
03-10-2015, 01:14 PM
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Is it running rough at idle? How are you determining it's #1? Pulling the plug wire while running or using a cylinder balance test on a scope? Speaking of scopes, have you checked the ignition pattern on a scope? Might be a good idea to hook it up to a scope to get you closer to the problem.
03-10-2015, 01:33 PM
#39
[YOUTUBE]
03-10-2015, 01:47 PM
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But, if you've got good spark and fuel than ignition won't have anything to do with 1 cylinder misfire. I could see that being the case on a motor with individual coil packs. The ecu doesn't send individual signals and the coil doesn't Fire each cylinder separately.
