Shogun1332

Now this pain in the butt truck has become even more of a pain.

Now, it will crank, start but then less than a second later it dies.
Giving it gas hasn't helped.
I pumped Fp and B+ on the diagnostic port, no change, fuel pump is running though.
I dont know what to do anymore.

Please help me! I will fail my college classes if I can't get to them.

redbayredneck

Check your fuel filter

Shogun1332

I dont know exactly how to check the fuel filter itself but i'm getting fuel on both sides of it.

When it dies it makes a noise like a slide whistle, like something is filling up.....

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Get a can of ether and see if you can keep it running with it. You can eliminate a fuel problem that way.

alpha1eleven

I had an ignition problem once and the engine would start but as soon as I would let got of the key it would stall. If I held the key in the start position it would stay running. I had to drive it home holding the key the whole time. I took apart the key cylinder and cleaned the contacts with sand paper and it's been working fine everytime. Is it literally a second after you start it? this could be the same problem I had. I agree with Vasinvictor to try ether first though, unless it stays started while you hold the key. I wouldnt recomend holding it for too long as it may not be the best thing for the starter...

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It'd be really help full (FOR YOU) if you continued in a single thread. People don't generally mind helping, but if you make it diffucult by requiring them to find and read the full situation they'll be discouraged ya know..

Thread #1
Thread #2

Now, have you done anything about the NE-Sensor/Distributor?
How about that head gasket that was leaking in atleast one spot?

That whistling sound it starts out high pitch and fades to low? Could be the cylinders decompressing out the side of the head to block junction, or gas escaping from the coolant system.

When it doesn't start you already know you need to check if you're getting proper ignition spark. But in case you forgot check the spark..

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Are you getting any Codes?? Check engine light on??

Do you have gas in the tank?

This gas of late has been clogging up fuel filters seems I change them about every 6 months.

How cold is it out in your area now.

What part of the state ??

Fuel lines frozen if you have lots of condensation ??

Shogun1332

I will try to get some ether, I'm stuck at home until my roommate gets back.

The key wont keep it alive, I tried because I had that happen to an older vehicle once.

I'm sorry for all the threads, I was starting different threads for different problems as they started.

According to the FSM the coils are in specs and they checked out resistance wise as well. and i found the coolant leak today too, it doesn't appear to be the head gasket, it looks like its the coolant hose that connects to the bottom of the throttle body. I'll try to post a picture of it.

The whistling sound starts low and then gets higher when the truck dies, like filling up a bottle.
I thought the same about the spark and checked that first, but it checks out okay.

No codes except the persistent 12 and 13 that have something to do with the pickup coils in the dizzy.
Check engine light came on once, then it died for the first time today and i couldn't get it to start, but that was while driving.

Yes there is gas in the tank.
Today its been 35-40*F if not warmer
Eastern Idaho, Pocatello area
It's been warmer for the last few days I don't suspect frozen lines

BamaYota1

Whistle makes me think clogged cat.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Malfunction indicate lamp wil not turn it's self off, it either A blew out the bulb or B you have another intermitten wiring issue.

Droping the exhaust is a pretty simple test. You can't hurt it by trying unless you snap a bolt.

Hard to start. Check
Rough idle. Check
Violent shaking. Check
Intermitten and no spark. Check.
Error codes 12 and 13. Check

Not to be an ass BUT. You really need todo something about that cam position sensor/wiring, it's your root cause of all of the above the computer even told you so

Gamefreakgc

If you think it's leaking, just replace it. Rubber hoses start to fail over time since they get brittle. I've replaced more than I can remember. And if it wasn't the issue, no worries it only cost you $1-$5 and an hour of your time and in the process, extended the life of that hose 20+ years.

If it's the hose in the front of the throttle body (bumper side) all you have to do is take out the four bolts holding on the Throttle body, disconnect the vacuum hoses, remove the accelerator cable (and cruise control if you have it) and it's way easy to take the hose off. Just twist it to loosen and pull off. The only thing to note is that you cannot just put stock hose on this one because of the 180* bend in it. You'll need the right hose (NAPA sells it) that comes with a 90* bend. Bring the old one with you to match it. Also, pick up a throttle body gasket while you are there and remove the old one.

If it's the one in the back of the throttle body, you might not even need to take off the throttle body to do it. Simple.

This won't fix your starting issue though. After replacing the fuel filter, run a couple of those fuel injector cleaning bottles through your tank (assuming it starts). This isn't a long-term solution but should help a little and they are dirt cheap.

Shogun1332

The check engine light comes on, the engine de-rates, and stalls out. That has happened 3-4 different times now. It leaves no code in the computer, and its not on when the truck restarts.

I changed the fuel filter, no change.

I dropped the exhaust, no change.

I think the fuel pump isn't supplying enough pressure to keep it running.

I ran injector cleaners through it recently (2 days ago) before it died.

I am in the process of getting an OEM distributor from another member here, I just need some time man. I don't have money to pay someone to do it, I dont have a shop that will let me do it, and most importantly I'm broke as hell. It will get done though

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

So how'd the ether test go?

Shogun1332

I did some more reading on the forums, I found a thread that mentioned this could be a timing problem? I did have the distributor cap off the other day and my other mechanic buddy told me it would be okay to crank the engine so that i could check all of the magnetic pick ups.

Would that mess the timing enough to let it start but only briefly?

I also asked some other folks around and some said fuel pressure cut off switch, I haven't heard much about these on cars just on big diesels. Does the truck even have one? anyone know how to test it?

Shogun1332

I forgot to buy ether when i bought my fuel filter

I'm getting a can tomorrow to try and rule out a fuel problem if i can

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Cranking with the cap off is a bad idea. Remeber your basic electronics\physics. Electricity much like water will take the path of least resistance. If that path happens to be thru the ignitor you can damage it. I don't know if there are protection diodes in the system and if there were how big they are, but even a properly rated one isn't guaranteed not to fail.

There needs to be a maxium air gap between the coil output and ground, if you exceed this (No I don't know it off hand) there is a posiblity of the coil dischargeing randomly thru whatever has the least resistance. Say the transistor in the ignitor for instance. Which has a finite watt limit..

Now thats not going to effect the timing settings it's going to fry something..

There isn't a fuel presure cut off switch, there is a fuel pressure release valve. Atleast not a seperate cut off there may or may not be something build into the pump but I don't think so.

Shogun1332

I didn't crank it like I was trying to start it, just a quick burst to move the rotor (which we then stupidly realized we could have just pulled off, that was a brain dead moment), so that we could check the air gap of the coils. Coil wire wasn't hooked to the cap, it was leaning against a ground on the fender well. Even if it did somehow fry something though I luckily have an extra coil and ignitor

I'll do that ether test tomorrow to try to rule out fuel and post what I find out

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yeah any cranking without some place to go is bad, as long as it has a proper place to go you can crank it till the battery goes dead and be ok.

scope103

Don't guess; check it (with a timing light). This also checks every other part of the ignition circuit, so you can rule out any problem with the distributor, ignition coil, etc. If the timing light doesn't flash then you can worry about whether you damaged the igniter or distributor. If the timing is off you'll need to fix it anyway.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator does make a slight whistling sound, but even if it were dying I can't figure out a scenario that would cause your problems (more likely a no-start than start-then-die). Use a "stethoscope" (I recommend the inside of a roll of paper towels) to locate the sound.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Harbor freight, cheap as chips (Thats cow chips of course). I use a long wood stick personaly 1/2"x3/8"x3-4' sure beats sticking your head in the thing while it's running

Hows the ETA on the sensor coming? I forget did you ever check the wiring for that? You're in college see if you can find someone in the electronics dept that will help you test it with a o-scope maybe.

Anyways just wander by, Keep at it you'll solve it!