yotarob2005

86 4runner, 22re, auto. Started and ran fine 2 weeks ago when I pulled it in the garage to do a 2" drive train lift. DT lift is finished now but it won't start. When I hit the key the dash lights up but the starter does not turn. I have NO voltage at the starter signal wire when the key is turned. I have had intermittent starting problems in the past, did a hot shot starter mod and it cured the problem. I ran a jumper wire to my starter relay and got the starter to turn but it still would not start. Stumbled a few times but nothing close to starting. Checked the fuse box under the hood and in the drivers side kick panel and all LOOK good. I've looked for broken ground wires ect and found nothing.

Things I have disrupted while doing the Drive train lift
- Installed 2" 4crawler body lift
- Motor mounts, put 2" 4crawler spacers in
- 2" Budbuilt trans cross member
- Dropped and relocated the gas tank, replaced fuel level sending unit.
Only thing I can think of is that I stretched and broke a wire while installing the body lift but I have spent the last couple of hours carefully looking under the truck and found nothing. Any ideas?

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

So the starter will turn if you run a jumper wire from the battery?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, that stinks Rob. And can't bump the auto, GRRRR!

Hmmmm, ... trippy, and I'm sure you pulled the ground to do all this, so nothing probably is shorted... Seems like your on the right track for a severed/broken wire. Maybe something just backed out the rear of a connector and you can't get good contact when putting it back in(starter, etc.?) Maybe the Starter Relay?

So, even when jumping the starter with power it's turning over but wont 'fire'?

yotarob2005

I did already try disconnecting the shifter linkage and made sure it was getting all the way into park. I did have to replace some shifter linkage that I bent while installing the BL, but it was t-case linkage.

Also checked the wires at the fuel tank. But I am not sure if the fuel pump is running or not, should I be able to hear it?

In theory if I can get the starter to turn with the key in the run position and it is still not starting then I either have no fuel or no spark. I am inclined to think fuel sine I have been messing with the tank.

yotarob2005

Yes the starter will turn with a jumper wire from the battery but still no fire. I am thinking that I might should have let it turn longer since I dropped the tank, maybe it needs more time to pump the fuel to the motor? be right back. Also goning to check for spark since it is quick and easy.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Two easy ways to check, Rob, ....

Jump the fuel pump at the Diagn port, and listen... or pull the AFM from the box just enough to open the flap with the key in "ON" position.... You should hear the fuel pump running.

If it's running, then next step would be to make sure you're gettin fuel to the old CSI. Even with Fuel to the CSI, there are a couple threads going right now that are experiencing "Fuel squirting out of CSI when cracked at the plenum, ... but injectors are not firing".

Guess a simple P.O.E. would be best.

1. Make sure really quick you even have spark
2. Make sure you have fuel pump engaging
3. Make sure you have fuel at the rail and coming out the CSI when you crack the banjo bolt and turn it over.(if the fuel pump is ruled out, first, of course, lol)

If fuel pump is not engaging, ....might check the COR, first, to see if it's "clickin away" in the glove when turning key to almost start.

EDIT; Typing same thing at same time.... haha.

nvtoyota

If I remember correctly there is a ground that goes from the engine to firewall mabey that has been stretched and is not letting something ground properly

yotarob2005

OK strike that, I got it started with the jumper wire. Drove it around the block twice and it runs fine. I'm not sure if maybe I didn't let it turn over long enough to get the fuel pumped up or what? It seemed like I turned it over for a solid minute before (in 15 sec intervals). When I went back out side and jumped the starter and it busted off instantly. I still have no signal from the ignition switch to the starter relay. When I say I jumped the starter, I mean I jumped the relay so the relay must be good correct? This MUST be an electrical problem. I'm thinking neutral (or park) safety switch? How can I test / bypass it? Possible ignition switch? Why did it start perfect before the DT lift? Is it just a coincidence? It's past midnight here in Texas and I have to get up in less than 6 hours, I'm going to try and get some sleep and deal with this in the AM.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Could be that N-safety, sure. Also could be the igntion cyl. Maybe you lessened the effectiveness of a ground with the lift or just broke a wire inside the insulation? You could quickly rule that out just running a multi meter to those ground wires, making sure their all 'complete/solid' connections.

Get some rest and knock it out tomorrow homie!

yotarob2005

Mark, multi meter to check the grounds is going to happen tomorrow, but only see one ground from the block to the battery. Maybe that is the problem? I need to figure out how to test the neutral safety switch and weather it would even start with the jumper if it was bad. I'll do some more research in the am and run some test on my lunch break. For now I am going to finish this bowl of mac and cheese then get some sleep. Maybe when I wake up I'll have some clues as to how I should test this crap.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Rob, ...

Yeah, I'm not sure on the Auto-N-Safety thingymadoer, lol. I'm SURE it's in the book though,...think I've stumbled upon it.

Ground from the battery to the block? Well, you should have a ground to the chassis behind the head(from the head block plate bolt to the firewall right behind it) and from the pass. fender well right next to the fusible link box to.... hmmm, I'm SO TIRED I can't even think. I'll be planning my trip out tomorrow, but I'll stop in with pics and post em if you still need em, lol.

xxxtreme22r

Rob, I know you have the auto and not sure you have the same connectors, but it's worth it for me to throw it out there, on the passenger side, under the truck right around the firewall/fender/rocker panel/floorboard/starter area, there is several connectors there. Check to make sure with the body lift you didn't damage or unplug any of those.

yotarob2005

I have not checked the ground at the back of the head, also did not disconnect it when I installed the BL. That will be first on my list for sure.

Yes I have several wires and connector coming together in that area aswell. I did check them and they seem fine, also they have plenty of slack to where I do not think they would have been an issue with the BL.

Thanks guys. I really want to get this figured out ASAP so if anyoner can think of anything then please let me know before I ended up throwing a starter button in it.

yotarob2005

The more I sit here and think about it the more I think ^ this ^ is the problem. If it is I will gladly accept one swift kick in the butt from each of you.

xxxtreme22r

you installed the engine lift first before the body lift right? I would still check it, but doubt that you over extended that wire as long as the body lift wasn't done first.

yotarob2005

I lifted the body first. There was not sufficient clerance to lift the engine first.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

For a quick check, just grab a battery jumper cable and clamp one end to the battery "-" post and the other end to some place on the head or block and see if that makes a difference.

Rickolition

I had the exact same problem! check your ground!!!! all i had was a new ground connection and it started right up.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I would think the only 'ground' effecting you would be either the chassis grounds(not as likely) and the starter ground.... Otherwise, you wouldn't have good 'GOGO LIGHTS IN THE DASH', eh? lol. 4Crawler is right.... start at beginning and end of each and complete the circuits to rule them out, yeah?

Maybe, as I initially said, you just shorted for a second and blew something that initiates the solenoid plunger(but running hot wire you have action to the starter, ....very interesting, lol.) Check the main positive wire from post to starter again, ...make CERTAIN there are no breaks. You can do that with a multimeter as well as just jumping it like Roger is saying,....but first remove the hoop off the starter, then run right to it with jumper and make sure your problem is not the starter cable.(I doubt it, but ya never know....I just replaced mine last year because it was almost totally severed under the insulation.

Also, not sure the head block plate to chassis ground would stop your complete circuit to the starter.

Only other major ground you have is on the intake(lower left stud).... since you're staying running, I don't thing that's an issue.

If all those grounds check out, etc., .... I would definitely move to rule out the ignition, Rob... it has happened before. Could just be coincidence, like 3 THINGS ON MINE have been, eh? hahha. I know there are tests in the FSM for the switch, etc., ...but I'm just trying to run to get ready to leave tomorrow, lol. Couldn't help but stop in and see if you got it though! lol.

yotarob2005

I went home at lunch and checked the ground at the back of the head but it was intact. I looked around some more but still did not find any problems. Gave the key a bump just for the hell of it and it started right up? I killed it and started it another 10 times. WTH? I'm thinking that this is a ground issue and that I am going to add a few extra grounds today after work. I'm not sure what else to do. Intermittent problems are the worst to find and fix.