oleboy

I did it and love it. The Auto trans to man trans. But I am getting 1 code it 42 speed sensor. Is there anything I can do? Please help if you can. Justin

toylocost

idk might help to know what kind of truck it is? guessing 22re?

oleboy

Im sorry its the 3.0 V6.

toylocost

You say its the speed sensor? Is your speedometer working fine? I would guess that the computer is trying to sense speed so that it can shift the auto trans. I bet a computer from a manual trans would fix the problem. But there is probably an easier, cheaper fix. Just need someone with more knowledge to chime in.

KelleyC

How-To A340 Automatic to R150F 5 speed swap wiring..

I need the model and year first then I can tell you more. Is the speedometer output electrical or cable driven?

Warning, another one of my long tech oriented answers*

*Basics from the Auto Connector out in order to make it run..

2 biggest black wires are the neutral safety switch wires, one's B/W the other's usually B/R.
~Run two wires off of them to your lower clutch pedal sensor switch. These are your starter wires, you want it so you have to push the clutch in fully to start it, but have the circuit open when the clutch is off in case you have cruise control or if no cruise so you don't accidentally start it while in gear.

2 smaller wires, I'll have to look at are for the back-up lights, which aren't a part of your problem..

Here's the Diagram

You did wire in the backups and the brake lights right?

Also, you need the auto controller box from the auto shifter assembly. Take it off the shifter (*unscrew it and unplug the wires), but actually save the plug with the two wires going out of the shifter that are for the overdrive by cutting the two wires free where they lead into the shifter arm.

Whatever plugs are left, plug in. One connector, the bigger female blue with a male white and the other connector both are white. (Refer to my pics below for reference). Note* I pulled off my ECT switch as there's no need for it. On one of the now open connectors, the one with the two small white wires for the O/D select you take the two white wires that are side by side and splice them together. Your "O/D Off" light should now be on, showing the circuit is complete. If there is still a fault it'll flash showing you still need to resolve the transmission communications.

I just finished mine up and after two days of hammering on it, i have gone ahead and pulled the bulb, but am going to go back and actually wire in a small single throw switch. This way if normal driving I don't have a silly light there, but if something acts up with the engine and throws a code I can jumper the diagnostics and see if it threw a transmission code after switching the circuit back on so it'll function the way it's supposed to.

Basically there were 2 computers before and need to be two after, both of which throw codes, keep both diagnostics available. Cool?

Making sense at all?

If not I'll try to monitor the thread.

oleboy

The speedometer is working its right on with my GPS. .My back lights and brake lights work. So that is all done. I will check the rest of what you said thank you for your time. Justin

ozziesironmanoffroad

ya id say its the comp tryin to shift the tranny. swap in a manual ECU from a junkyard and see if it helps.

881stGenRunner

Kelley, that is A LOT of great information. I did the auto to manual swap on my 88 3VZE as well and was wondering if you can specify what year your truck is and if you can better tell which colors the wires are.

The BEST would be if you had pictures of all the ways you wired everything up.

The only thing we did was to jump the 2 large wires off the white plug so the truck thinks it is always in Neutral or Park.

KelleyC

*More of a wiring headache than needed IMHO, keep it simple. Redo 6 individual wires or pull your dash, etc and rewire for a different loom, no way. Don't make it any harder than it needs to be.

Thanks FWIW I trimmed back and hid everything so it would appear factory but I'll see what I can get tonight and load in for you two. I'm not too keen on tearing it all out to get clear pics after 3 hours of hardcore wiring work and sealing it all up. The 6 wires were the ones mentioned above. From the big white (grey-ish) transmission connector the two bigger black ones to the lower clutch switch, the other two were for the backup sensor (light switch) on the right side of the transmission. As for the big transmission connector, the two larger light purple ones and the pink one aren't needed along with the two solenoid connectors from over on the left side so I cut, capped, sealed and wrapped those all up. The 4wd indicator hot lead was ran to the #12 (IIRC) terminal location on the leftmost blue connector behind the gauge panel and the negative side grounded to the steel dashboard mount so the indicator would work. (*I'm not pulling my dash apart for that one pic, sorry. I will be in there in a bit though because I stole the bulb from the O/D Off location until I replace it back and do as I said above and wire in the switch so we can pull transmission computer codes if I need to, besides that on my vehicle there's only 2 of the connectors still interacting with the auto computer. Some trucks you also need to tap the two smaller wires from the brake pedal sensor over to the upper clutch pedal switch so the cruise control cancel will remain working, mine already had it from the factory since it's an electric cruise box instead of the vacuum/mechanical model. Not shown in the last pic is the ECT switch harness, as I moved it back out of the way when I disconnected the switch and just put a blank black cap there.

*Hope this all helps..

sportbiker929

My auto is about to die. I am going to hunt down a 5sp. Do I need to swap the transfer case as well?

Thanks,

Mitch

1985yoda

Is it possible that when the previous owner of my truck swapped out the at for the mt the at computer never got put back in. My truck has numerous problems w/ wiring(no back up lights, no check engine light, no clutch safety switch). I have a bundle of wires jumpered and taped up hanging under the throttle body. I don't even know where to start.

myyota

Find the computer for the automatic transmission and unplug it and remove it, because its no longer needed. That should stop the code. You don`t need to change the engine computer. The computer for the transmission is totally seperate from the engine computer.

KelleyC

Bump..I recently got a message asking for the tech on how the wiring was completed on my build. I just felt it the right thing to do here by sharing the info on just who figured it all out (keeping the cruise control intact and resolving the issue of fuel mix affecting the smog #'s)..Shane's the one who did the work with us and we used his info here to do it all: http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20939 I no longer work with him but I found him to be a really nice guy who's got some skills when it comes to vehicles and always willing to help us out. If anyone else searches the wiring question my answer above is the basics he gave me, but ultimately you might want to talk to him for oddball stuff.

Shane, although you're not on this forum (banned IIRC) and you might not get to see this post I just wanted to have people know you were the one who helped us out and I appreciated it, as does the person who sent me the message and got to figure it out from your info.

*I know you and Corey get along fine now online (Expo) and I hope this is Ok to have posted.

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Awesome stuff, thanks Kelley (and Shane!).

This swap is likely in my near future, as my slushbox is starting to lose reverse. This thread and the one you linked will help immensely!

RBX

I recently completed this swap, and have to say it was pretty easy and well worth the performance gain.
My major issue now is a code 42. I have studied the wire schematics, my ECT is hooked up, O/D is off, speedo cable hooked up and i jumpered the Neutral on the ECT so the truck thinks its in Park/Neutral. I did this because i was getting engine stumble at shift points (2500-3000 rpm) and i read that a solution is make the ECT think it is in Park/Neutral. I got the code 42 before i jumped the neutral, and can remove it .

Before the swap i had no codes, but now i can get the code 42 just by revving the engine, actually id i hold it at 2500rpm. And when it stumbles the fuel/air mix goes crazy and eventually settles down.

Anyone know why i am getting this error?
thank you

R4unnerMan

Sorry to rez a dead post, its snowing like mad here and im at a loss.. swaped my 1990 4 runner 3vze to 5 speed did not wire my rev lights figured id do it later on. as soon as snow fell I try and put it in 4wd nd nothing, you can hear 4low whinning like normal but still spins out. guess its wiring? another post from skinner talks about having to wire the rev lights (2 wires) and 4wd (2wires) in order to work. got my rev lights going and tryed this 4wd one as my plug are the same color etc as his in his post, still no 4wd. jumped the wires from the pins he refered to 2&3 on blue 6 pin plug and still no 4wd. I guess jumping the wires is suppose to trick the system to think the tcase is in 4wd? any help on wiring or a diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

RBX

Vss(speed sensor) hooked up?
Not sure about the 4wd, mine is manually engaged since its the old gear driven tcase and my speedo is mechanical.

scope103

I assume you have ADD; did you hook it up?
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26addcontr.pdf