s4-916

I was trying to do ball joints and control arm bushings this weekend, but not much luck removing the tension from the torsion bar.

Mine are 100% seized, they're pretty sad. When turning with a breaker bar (and a lot of PB Blaster!), both the bottom and top assemblies turn with the saddle washers. I tried heat, pounding, everything. Nothing worked. So I think the only way to remove them is to somehow hold the top nut, and crank on the main bolt until it snaps.

Obviously I'm not looking forward to the possibilities of where the pieces are going to go at 1000mph.

Anyone got any experience with this? Advice appreciated please.

s4-916

Oh yeah, info. This is a '94 T4R 4X4, and I have front end jacked up, wheel removed.

xxxtreme22r

break em. 1/2 breaker bar preferable 18-24" and possibly a cheater pipe. Order new ones before you do.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

hit it with your purse.






seriously though, make sure you have eye protection and be careful as it will snap and will shoot out of there. Last one i broke went through the floor board pf my truck. Maybe put some plywood up there to stop that. I assume you already have replacements for the adjusters as well.

xxxtreme22r

mightymouse is dead on about the floor board, I just went away to grab this photo on when I had to break mine.

When ordering get both bolts and all nut/locknuts, you probably won't need new seats. I didn't. And being a newer model your's will be a little different locknut. I think the newer ones didn't have the double nut, or at least a shorter set.

dewiseman

If it helps any, my 95 4r has a single nut on top. I think yours should too.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I got a set of adjusters from the dealer, one piece is now NS1. You have to save and salvage what you can. The bolts and lock nuts are for the newer '90 and up.

The new style is a single nut, the old is two nuts jammed togther. You need two box wrenches and cheater pipes to unlock the jam nuts, but they might just break too. I have a big dent where mine the floor. you may need to use a pry bar to lever the floor up enough to get the top of the bolt out from between the frame and the body after it snaps.

Let the front drop out on jack stands, those bars pack serious wallop.

s4-916

OK thanks. I ordered the bolt, nut, and 2 spacers from 1stToyotaParts.com (almost half price of the dealer), and I'm going to put some wood above the bolt so it doesn't bust through the roof, use my breaker bar, and hope the bolt snaps high so it's easy to get out.

Thanks for the advice everyone (except the purse comment - that's just not right...)

wii_tarded

I guess I got lucky. I forget the wrench size, but I used one on top and it locked up against the frame, and then threw the mojo on the end of a breaker bar just to snap them loose. No dents in the floor from what I can see.

Also, what bushings are you putting in? I am in the middle of replacing mine with the poly bushings and getting the old ones out is a PITA.

Good luck with the project.