How much for (SAS) front driveline.
#1
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How much for (SAS) front driveline.
I'm not looking forward to going into winter with a square front driveshaft.
So I decided to poke around the net for some options for a CV style balanced front shaft. High angle D-Line says their front shafts start at 850?
That seems WAY overpriced. Someone fill me on on why these things cost your left nut?
thanks =)
So I decided to poke around the net for some options for a CV style balanced front shaft. High angle D-Line says their front shafts start at 850?
That seems WAY overpriced. Someone fill me on on why these things cost your left nut?
thanks =)
#2
I took in an 85 front d-shaft and rear d-shaft to my local guy. He added a rear CV, longer front slip spline and lengthened/balanced both. Parts and labor less than $500. Find someone local or do it yourself. $850 is ludicrous.
#3
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HAD costs that much because the CVs are designed for massive angles. Wabfab is right though. Get a 84-85 CV shaft from a solid axled truck and a 8-10" long travel splined section and have it welded together at a driveline place. With only a 3" kit it should work okay unless you have the V6.
#5
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I had an IFS front shaft and had it rebuilt/clearanced/lengthened at a drive line shop for around $300 back about 8 years ago. The shop was Paradise Driveline in CA, it is owned by the father of Jesse of HAD fame. This is a spare shaft. I also had one built from scratch at a local drive line shop about 10 years ago for around $450 as I recall. New CV and u-joint and off-the-shelf long travel slip yoke.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 09-23-2009 at 10:25 AM.
#7
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marlins long spline front Dshaft looks like a good piece. $400 is a lot more my speed haha
Eventually I want to run dual cases so I would need this extended down the road. Think a driveline shop would use the same tubing to extend it? Sounds like a dumb question but Marlin says their dlines are thicker. Would that be a problem down the road to extend?
Eventually I want to run dual cases so I would need this extended down the road. Think a driveline shop would use the same tubing to extend it? Sounds like a dumb question but Marlin says their dlines are thicker. Would that be a problem down the road to extend?
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Call Dave at www.davezoffroadperformance he'll beat all of the above quoted prices for a shaft built from scratch.
#11
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i didnt talk to anyone. I was just looking at their web site
heres the Toyota Driveline page,
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy.html
"This is our new c/v for Toyota's with single cases and higher angles - Its not cheap- They start
around 850$ range- its a 49 degree custom c/v"
Their non-cv shafts according to the website are cheaper but i WANT a CV... ie need one. Theres really zero point to spending $300+ on a long spline non-cv front driveline. My square d-line was like $50 and only starts really becoming a nuisance above 20mph.. on road.
I want the same performance (ie balanced front shaft) as I had prior to the SAS. So I can drive in the winter when it snows and not have to get out and unlock hubs on the main streets.
I like to be able to cruise around 30-35 mph with the hubs locked in. =)
I'll check out davez offroad thnx =)
heres the Toyota Driveline page,
http://www.highangledriveline.com/toy.html
"This is our new c/v for Toyota's with single cases and higher angles - Its not cheap- They start
around 850$ range- its a 49 degree custom c/v"
Their non-cv shafts according to the website are cheaper but i WANT a CV... ie need one. Theres really zero point to spending $300+ on a long spline non-cv front driveline. My square d-line was like $50 and only starts really becoming a nuisance above 20mph.. on road.
I want the same performance (ie balanced front shaft) as I had prior to the SAS. So I can drive in the winter when it snows and not have to get out and unlock hubs on the main streets.
I like to be able to cruise around 30-35 mph with the hubs locked in. =)
I'll check out davez offroad thnx =)
#12
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Thread Starter
heh the square one has proven to be pretty tough to.
I was concerned with cracking the T-case or messing up output flange or something inside.
I was concerned with cracking the T-case or messing up output flange or something inside.
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