How many miles do you have on your 3.0?
04-01-2014, 04:25 AM
#41
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Because I am not sure if the truck will last me another 100 miles or 20,000 miles. The guy I bought it from said he did a number of things to the truck, but after I bought it I could tell that he may not have been fully truthful with me. I want to get a small lift and some wider wheels, but just nervous that the truck may mess up sooner than later. I would hate to buy 2000 in aftermarket stuff and the truck mess up
Last edited by 1_\/\_YOTA; 04-01-2014 at 04:26 AM.
04-01-2014, 04:06 PM
#42
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I feel you on that one. The po for my truck said it was just a o2 sensor.
If it was that simple why not just fix it.. Then I turn around and spend 2500+ just to get the cel off! I plan on keeping through what ever happens so I guess I'll just keep dumping money into haha
If it was that simple why not just fix it.. Then I turn around and spend 2500+ just to get the cel off! I plan on keeping through what ever happens so I guess I'll just keep dumping money into haha
04-01-2014, 04:15 PM
#43
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Haha. I don't understand why people have to be dishonest about stuff like that. That is how the guy was that I got mine from. Karma is a bitch.
04-01-2014, 05:13 PM
#45
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Current ride is a 90 4runner. The PO completely screwed up the motor attempting to replace the headgaskets at about 230K. I dropped in a motor with about 90K with fresh T-belt, every oil seal, all tuneup, etc, EXCEPT the head gaskets, and put another 10K on that. I figure rust will kill the truck in another 6 years or 120k, whichever is first. Not worried about the 3.0's ability to go the distance.
The 89 extended cab woods truck has the original, unmolested 3.0, running very strong at 100K, head gaskets never been done.
My best 3.0 outlasted 3 seperate 4runners, and had over 250K on the original head gaskets when I hydrolocked it. Kinda sad really.
I feel that a lot of these 3.0 head gasket failures are caused by people never changing their coolant and over time it gets corrosive and slowly eats the gaskets.
I delete the EGR and PAIR on all my 3.0s simply to make future working on the engine much simpler. Twenty minute ignition tuneups rock.
If you have the original vacuum diagram under the hood it's pretty simple to figure out which lines you need. Basically you only need the two that run the fuel pressure regulator. Then make block-off plates for the intake and exhaust manifolds when you pull the EGR and PAIR valve. Finish by plugging off the new hole in your airbox from the PAIR suction hose.
If your truck has an EGR temp sensor, simply solder the wires together to keep the MIL off. Unless you have cali-emmision, then your hosed, cause it actually looks for a change in resistance on that circuit.
I think it's great the the 3.0 gets a bad rap. It allows me to get good deals on them. lol.
The 89 extended cab woods truck has the original, unmolested 3.0, running very strong at 100K, head gaskets never been done.
My best 3.0 outlasted 3 seperate 4runners, and had over 250K on the original head gaskets when I hydrolocked it. Kinda sad really.
I feel that a lot of these 3.0 head gasket failures are caused by people never changing their coolant and over time it gets corrosive and slowly eats the gaskets.
I delete the EGR and PAIR on all my 3.0s simply to make future working on the engine much simpler. Twenty minute ignition tuneups rock.
If you have the original vacuum diagram under the hood it's pretty simple to figure out which lines you need. Basically you only need the two that run the fuel pressure regulator. Then make block-off plates for the intake and exhaust manifolds when you pull the EGR and PAIR valve. Finish by plugging off the new hole in your airbox from the PAIR suction hose.
If your truck has an EGR temp sensor, simply solder the wires together to keep the MIL off. Unless you have cali-emmision, then your hosed, cause it actually looks for a change in resistance on that circuit.
I think it's great the the 3.0 gets a bad rap. It allows me to get good deals on them. lol.
04-06-2014, 12:11 PM
#47
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Current ride is a 90 4runner. The PO completely screwed up the motor attempting to replace the headgaskets at about 230K. I dropped in a motor with about 90K with fresh T-belt, every oil seal, all tuneup, etc, EXCEPT the head gaskets, and put another 10K on that. I figure rust will kill the truck in another 6 years or 120k, whichever is first. Not worried about the 3.0's ability to go the distance.
The 89 extended cab woods truck has the original, unmolested 3.0, running very strong at 100K, head gaskets never been done.
My best 3.0 outlasted 3 seperate 4runners, and had over 250K on the original head gaskets when I hydrolocked it. Kinda sad really.
I feel that a lot of these 3.0 head gasket failures are caused by people never changing their coolant and over time it gets corrosive and slowly eats the gaskets.
I delete the EGR and PAIR on all my 3.0s simply to make future working on the engine much simpler. Twenty minute ignition tuneups rock.
If you have the original vacuum diagram under the hood it's pretty simple to figure out which lines you need. Basically you only need the two that run the fuel pressure regulator. Then make block-off plates for the intake and exhaust manifolds when you pull the EGR and PAIR valve. Finish by plugging off the new hole in your airbox from the PAIR suction hose.
If your truck has an EGR temp sensor, simply solder the wires together to keep the MIL off. Unless you have cali-emmision, then your hosed, cause it actually looks for a change in resistance on that circuit.
I think it's great the the 3.0 gets a bad rap. It allows me to get good deals on them. lol.
The 89 extended cab woods truck has the original, unmolested 3.0, running very strong at 100K, head gaskets never been done.
My best 3.0 outlasted 3 seperate 4runners, and had over 250K on the original head gaskets when I hydrolocked it. Kinda sad really.
I feel that a lot of these 3.0 head gasket failures are caused by people never changing their coolant and over time it gets corrosive and slowly eats the gaskets.
I delete the EGR and PAIR on all my 3.0s simply to make future working on the engine much simpler. Twenty minute ignition tuneups rock.
If you have the original vacuum diagram under the hood it's pretty simple to figure out which lines you need. Basically you only need the two that run the fuel pressure regulator. Then make block-off plates for the intake and exhaust manifolds when you pull the EGR and PAIR valve. Finish by plugging off the new hole in your airbox from the PAIR suction hose.
If your truck has an EGR temp sensor, simply solder the wires together to keep the MIL off. Unless you have cali-emmision, then your hosed, cause it actually looks for a change in resistance on that circuit.
I think it's great the the 3.0 gets a bad rap. It allows me to get good deals on them. lol.
Yea, before I owned my 3.0 I heard only negative things, but mine seems to be holding up just fine even with a dishonest PO and having 280,000 on it. I drive roughly 40 miles a day and it does fine.
04-06-2014, 05:51 PM
#48
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My PO was a teenager and this was his first vehicle.....so it needed everything you could imagine...I fix something new every weekend...and after 3 months...shes gettin better all the time..
04-07-2014, 07:26 AM
#49
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Mine has 285,000 miles right now, original engine. With good maintenance, these 3.0's will last a long time.
That being said, I think mine's nearing the end of it's useful life. Starting to get some valve knocks, only 10k miles after a valve adjustment (not doing that again!). Thinking of selling it soon to someone who wants to turn it into a trail rig. Funny thing is though, it still runs way better than when I first got it!
That being said, I think mine's nearing the end of it's useful life. Starting to get some valve knocks, only 10k miles after a valve adjustment (not doing that again!). Thinking of selling it soon to someone who wants to turn it into a trail rig. Funny thing is though, it still runs way better than when I first got it!
04-07-2014, 12:05 PM
#50
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Mine has 285,000 miles right now, original engine. With good maintenance, these 3.0's will last a long time.
That being said, I think mine's nearing the end of it's useful life. Starting to get some valve knocks, only 10k miles after a valve adjustment (not doing that again!). Thinking of selling it soon to someone who wants to turn it into a trail rig. Funny thing is though, it still runs way better than when I first got it!
That being said, I think mine's nearing the end of it's useful life. Starting to get some valve knocks, only 10k miles after a valve adjustment (not doing that again!). Thinking of selling it soon to someone who wants to turn it into a trail rig. Funny thing is though, it still runs way better than when I first got it!
is it a knocking or more of a ticking noise?
04-07-2014, 05:32 PM
#51
About 155K on a '90 4Runner. Head gasket job done by Toyota around 105K after PO had a blow out. Runs smooth as silk, good compression. PO also had auto tranny rebuilt after running it dry.
I talked with a guy who had over 500K on his 3.0 pickup before selling it off in the cash for clunkers program.
I talked with a guy who had over 500K on his 3.0 pickup before selling it off in the cash for clunkers program.
04-08-2014, 04:08 AM
#52
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About 155K on a '90 4Runner. Head gasket job done by Toyota around 105K after PO had a blow out. Runs smooth as silk, good compression. PO also had auto tranny rebuilt after running it dry.
I talked with a guy who had over 500K on his 3.0 pickup before selling it off in the cash for clunkers program.
I talked with a guy who had over 500K on his 3.0 pickup before selling it off in the cash for clunkers program.
That's crazy. It really depends on how you treat it. I think about any type of car could reach high miles (maybe not 500,000!), but with a responsible owner and keeping up with maintenance, etc. any vehicle could last as very long time. Just the scary part of buying a used high mileage vehicle is you have no idea what the PO's have or have not done prior to you getting the vehicle. I have had people tell me they have taken care of their vehicle and done all this work and had the vehicle have problem after problem surface.
04-08-2014, 07:20 AM
#53
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Both 
My engine ticks loudly (Fuel Pressure Dampener) as well as knocks from the rear driver's side valve cover. I bet if I switched to synthetic oil it'd go away though.
It's all good though, it takes more than a couple of knocks to kill one of these engines!
My engine ticks loudly (Fuel Pressure Dampener) as well as knocks from the rear driver's side valve cover. I bet if I switched to synthetic oil it'd go away though.
It's all good though, it takes more than a couple of knocks to kill one of these engines!
04-08-2014, 08:24 AM
#54
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I switched from Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic blend to Napa (which is manufactured by Valvoline) 10w-30 full synthetic and mine ticks even louder. I'm gonna switch back next oil change.
04-10-2014, 04:18 PM
#56
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Thread hijack. My 1992 22RE has 215,000 miles. Bragging a little because a 4 banger has to work 50% harder to get there. All original. No head gasket repair. Yet....
Small oil leak, to keep me honest.
Small oil leak, to keep me honest.
04-10-2014, 06:22 PM
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04-10-2014, 07:08 PM
#59
When I purchased my 3.0 a few months ago it had 216000, I rebuild engine and tranny (It was a little overkill i'm sure) since then I have 2000 on it. I plan on atleast a 100k.
04-11-2014, 05:29 AM
#60
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