How to I get this !@#$ rotor off?!!

Cansler · 08-29-2008, 06:16 PM

I'm trying to replace the rotor and cv joint, but I am stuck. What do I do next to get this black thing off? (see below)

***waskillywabbit*** · 08-29-2008, 06:31 PM

Look online under repair info at Autozone. Diagrams and textual instructions.

http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528004d8da

abecedarian · 08-29-2008, 06:39 PM

there are conical shaped split washers around each of the 6 bolts. tap tap tap. maybe a torch. don't bugger the threads on the studs though.

Blitzkrieg · 08-29-2008, 06:46 PM

Penetrating oil on those cone washers around those studs. Hit the housing w/ a hammer at the side right where the cone washer is inserted and it will pop right out. Keep your eye on them as some realy do pop right off. Two are already out it looks like so repeat 3 more times. Try not to deform the metal too much. I see a little deformation on the one at the top so they've likely been off before. Good luck.

***waskillywabbit*** · 08-29-2008, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blitzkrieg

Penetrating oil on those cone washers around those studs. Hit the housing w/ a hammer at the side right where the cone washer is inserted and it will pop right out. Keep your eye on them as some realy do pop right off. Two are already out it looks like so repeat 3 more times. Try not to deform the metal too much. I see a little deformation on the one at the top so they've likely been off before. Good luck.

NO NEED TO HIT THE HOUSING WITH A HAMMER! As you see the results...it deforms the metal.

Use a brass drift on the stud and tap the brass with a hammer and they'll pop right off up to the brass drift.

bigt · 08-29-2008, 07:25 PM

heat the cone washers up with a torch propane works for 20 seconds then tap the side of add flange with a hammer lightly and they will pop like hot pop corn

toy89yota · 08-29-2008, 07:33 PM

I used a brass drift on either the end of the studs of on the split of the conical washer. hit each one of them. some with pop off others will just loosen to the point where you can wiggle the rotor off easily

Pistonman · 08-29-2008, 09:41 PM

Sometimes you can tap a small straight blade screwdriver into the split in the cone washer and pull it out. I do that on class 8 trucks, same cone washer on the drivers.

Green93 · 08-29-2008, 09:58 PM

There are 2 threaded holes on the black thing with nothing in them. Find 2 bolts that fit, I think I used 2 of my hood bolts since I had it off anyways. Tighten the 2 bolts in the holes, alternate between them and you will see the black thing start to move. You don't need to loosen it too far. About 1/8" gap will be enough. Then simply remove the bolts again. The cone washers will fly off so watch your eyes. You might have to tap a couple but nothing difficult at all. There is no need for a torch or anything like that. I didn't even have to use penetrating spray.

Good luck,
Jason

Green93 · 08-29-2008, 10:00 PM

Forgot to mention...keep the nuts threaded on just a couple of turns. They will prevent the cone washers from flying off and getting lost.

Cansler · 08-30-2008, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green93

There are 2 threaded holes on the black thing with nothing in them. Find 2 bolts that fit, I think I used 2 of my hood bolts since I had it off anyways. Tighten the 2 bolts in the holes, alternate between them and you will see the black thing start to move. You don't need to loosen it too far. About 1/8" gap will be enough. Then simply remove the bolts again. The cone washers will fly off so watch your eyes. You might have to tap a couple but nothing difficult at all. There is no need for a torch or anything like that. I didn't even have to use penetrating spray.

Good luck,
Jason

Jason, this is kinda the approach I had in mind (i think from Chilton's) - are those bolts metric?

Thanks everyone for the replies so far.

Chris
Charlotte, NC

bigt · 08-30-2008, 07:41 AM

no heat them up and tap with hammer im telling you takes 5 minutes! for both sides

InternetRoadkill · 08-30-2008, 08:05 AM

x10 on the brass drift and a hammer. Don't beat on the housing. I used a piece of aluminum bar stock on mine. That also works.

Green93 · 08-30-2008, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cansler

Jason, this is kinda the approach I had in mind (i think from Chilton's) - are those bolts metric?

Thanks everyone for the replies so far.

Chris
Charlotte, NC

Yes, they are metric. Just pull one from your hood hinge and try it. If it works take it to the hardware store and get a couple. Or just pull one from each side of the hood. When you're done just bolt them back on. Mine weren't damaged at all. They just basically thread in and press on the steel behind, pushing the plate off.

Or if you need an excuse to play with your torch then do that. But why would Toyota put those handy little threaded holes there if they didn't intend for you to use them???

Jason

85toyo · 09-03-2008, 11:10 AM

I have a question to go with that.. after you get it off how do you seperate the rotor from the hub housing and whatever else that is that holds the bearing and seal on the back side of the rotor???

mt_goat · 09-03-2008, 12:08 PM

The rotor is bolted to the back side of the hub.

Jay351 · 09-03-2008, 02:07 PM

Make sure you have a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts... Don't use a stake.. IT DOESNT WORK...

AxleIke · 09-03-2008, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigt

no heat them up and tap with hammer im telling you takes 5 minutes! for both sides

Brass drift takes all of 30 seconds to get all six washers off.

Also a lot better than beating the housing with a hammer.

Cansler · 09-07-2008, 10:20 AM

Great success in getting that part off. You can see it on the left there, removed. Two questions now:

a) I noticed a rubber seal on that part I removed. What is it called, and where can I get a replacement seal?

b) The next step, I believe, is to removed that large nut in the center. I think it is 54mm, can anyone confirm that?

rhale · 09-07-2008, 10:43 AM

as for the seal, i do not know. yes the nut is a 54mm or 2 1/8 standard socket. i just bought one for mine at sears $28 and they are 3/4 in drive so make sure you have a 3/4" rachet or a step down from 3/4 to 1/2. i believe on yours there will be 2 54mm nuts with a washer in b/w that has tabs to fold down over the front and rear nut.

good luck

08-29-2008, 06:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
Cansler Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 8	How to I get this !@#$ rotor off?!! I'm trying to replace the rotor and cv joint, but I am stuck. What do I do next to get this black thing off? (see below)

08-29-2008, 06:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
*waskillywabbit* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 11,485	Look online under repair info at Autozone. Diagrams and textual instructions. http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528004d8da __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC www.myspace.com/wabfab FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner GRAY FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner RED 6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009 Last edited by waskillywabbit : 08-30-2008 at 06:48 AM.

08-29-2008, 06:46 PM	#4 (permalink)
Blitzkrieg Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 8	Hammer! Penetrating oil on those cone washers around those studs. Hit the housing w/ a hammer at the side right where the cone washer is inserted and it will pop right out. Keep your eye on them as some realy do pop right off. Two are already out it looks like so repeat 3 more times. Try not to deform the metal too much. I see a little deformation on the one at the top so they've likely been off before. Good luck.

08-29-2008, 07:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
bigt Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario Posts: 1,946	heat the cone washers up with a torch propane works for 20 seconds then tap the side of add flange with a hammer lightly and they will pop like hot pop corn __________________ 1991 HILUX SURF SSR-X 2-lte turbo diesel with upgraded head tons of cool options you dont get in north America RIGHT HAND DRIVE,auto,push button 4wd,turbo timer,31.1-.50.15 bfgs,factory fender flares,window flares. CAR DOLLY sirius TUNED TO HOWARD 100 trail ifs rig goldie fate unknown blue 93 srf 4runner NEW TRAIL RIG IN POGRESS ifs welded rear few mods for now rebuilding fj 60 series front axle for future s.a.s

08-29-2008, 09:58 PM	#9 (permalink)
Green93 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 348	There are 2 threaded holes on the black thing with nothing in them. Find 2 bolts that fit, I think I used 2 of my hood bolts since I had it off anyways. Tighten the 2 bolts in the holes, alternate between them and you will see the black thing start to move. You don't need to loosen it too far. About 1/8" gap will be enough. Then simply remove the bolts again. The cone washers will fly off so watch your eyes. You might have to tap a couple but nothing difficult at all. There is no need for a torch or anything like that. I didn't even have to use penetrating spray. Good luck, Jason __________________ 1993 Toyota 4WD Ex-Cab Auto 31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's Front and rear diff. breathers Aisin manual hub swap Clarion Pro Audio CD player MB Quart speakers 3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild: Block bored 20 over Engnbldr master rebuild kit Heads rebuilt Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves Weasy2k stage 1 cams Cleaned and balanced injectors LCE ceramic street header kit LCE pro flow exhaust with cat delete http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93Toy/MyToy#

08-29-2008, 09:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
Pistonman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Kingston, Washington Posts: 132	Sometimes you can tap a small straight blade screwdriver into the split in the cone washer and pull it out. I do that on class 8 trucks, same cone washer on the drivers.

08-29-2008, 10:00 PM	#10 (permalink)
Green93 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Langley, BC Posts: 348	Forgot to mention...keep the nuts threaded on just a couple of turns. They will prevent the cone washers from flying off and getting lost. __________________ 1993 Toyota 4WD Ex-Cab Auto 31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's Front and rear diff. breathers Aisin manual hub swap Clarion Pro Audio CD player MB Quart speakers 3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild: Block bored 20 over Engnbldr master rebuild kit Heads rebuilt Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves Weasy2k stage 1 cams Cleaned and balanced injectors LCE ceramic street header kit LCE pro flow exhaust with cat delete http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93Toy/MyToy#

08-30-2008, 07:41 AM	#12 (permalink)
bigt Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario Posts: 1,946	no heat them up and tap with hammer im telling you takes 5 minutes! for both sides __________________ 1991 HILUX SURF SSR-X 2-lte turbo diesel with upgraded head tons of cool options you dont get in north America RIGHT HAND DRIVE,auto,push button 4wd,turbo timer,31.1-.50.15 bfgs,factory fender flares,window flares. CAR DOLLY sirius TUNED TO HOWARD 100 trail ifs rig goldie fate unknown blue 93 srf 4runner NEW TRAIL RIG IN POGRESS ifs welded rear few mods for now rebuilding fj 60 series front axle for future s.a.s

08-30-2008, 08:05 AM	#13 (permalink)
InternetRoadkill Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 832	x10 on the brass drift and a hammer. Don't beat on the housing. I used a piece of aluminum bar stock on mine. That also works.

09-03-2008, 11:10 AM	#15 (permalink)
85toyo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sharpsburg GA Posts: 1	I have a question to go with that.. after you get it off how do you seperate the rotor from the hub housing and whatever else that is that holds the bearing and seal on the back side of the rotor???

09-03-2008, 12:08 PM	#16 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 7,433	The rotor is bolted to the back side of the hub. __________________ Dale "America is in a hole and it's getting deeper every day. We import 70% of our oil at a cost of $700 billion a year - four times the annual cost of the Iraq war." T. Boone Pickens Check out the plan: http://www.pickensplan.com/index.php and http://www.cngnow.com/EN-US/Pages/default.aspx

09-03-2008, 02:07 PM	#17 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 5,951	Make sure you have a 54mm socket for the wheel bearing nuts... Don't use a stake.. IT DOESNT WORK... __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - sr5 - 4x4 - 230,000kms \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \|Diff breather mod \| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|Downey idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

09-07-2008, 10:20 AM	#19 (permalink)
Cansler Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 8	Great success in getting that part off. You can see it on the left there, removed. Two questions now: a) I noticed a rubber seal on that part I removed. What is it called, and where can I get a replacement seal? b) The next step, I believe, is to removed that large nut in the center. I think it is 54mm, can anyone confirm that?

09-07-2008, 10:43 AM	#20 (permalink)
rhale Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Southern Utah Posts: 61	as for the seal, i do not know. yes the nut is a 54mm or 2 1/8 standard socket. i just bought one for mine at sears $28 and they are 3/4 in drive so make sure you have a 3/4" rachet or a step down from 3/4 to 1/2. i believe on yours there will be 2 54mm nuts with a washer in b/w that has tabs to fold down over the front and rear nut. good luck