alltracman78

So from reading around it seems the 3.0 dist likes to go bad around 250k, and since my truck has 254k I'm curious as to what is is that tends to go bad in them.

Does the bearing wear out? So the trigger gets too close/too far away from the pickup?
Or do the coils tend to go bad?

The reason I ask is I THINK I can get new bearing/seals for the dist, but I can't get new coils. And if they tend to be the problem there's not much point in replacing the bearing/seals.

TNRabbit

Anything that has spun around a few million times is subject to failure.....

rattlewagon

Yup.

This is like asking why we have to replace break pads.

thook

Go here:http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...12onvehicl.pdf

Look at page IG-23. Notice the NE and G1/G2 pick ups. The NE detects crankshaft position and the G1/G2 detect camshaft position. When the shaft gets to wobbling around from wear, it creates shoddy timing signals in those pick ups. The shaft tends to wear out before the actual circuits do.....hence the above statements.

alltracman78

Thanks for the answer.
That's what I'm trying to figure out, if the bearing goes bad before the coils do. I had hoped it did, but I wasn't sure and I figured some of you on here would have an idea.

No.
I asked WHAT goes bad inside them, not why do they go bad.
Please don't answer questions if you can't be bothered to read the whole question before you answer.

I'd rather rebuild the dist for ~ $30, vs spending over $100 for some made in China junk, or spending $400 for a Toyota one.

drmix

I think mine is on its way out. Theres been a couple times where I started my truck and it was idling SUPER low and another time where the cluster wasnt registering my rpms correctly. It was jumping around and wasnt constant even though my trucks idle wasnt changing.

What can you expect for 280k miles

Northern Sun

Distributor story; there is information in pdf regards distributor testing!

that information only regards to 93+ 4runners and maybe pickups as well, maybe even to 95, but knowing tyota i would doubt that; proof? ok!; 90 and probably 91 distributors wont follow that test; why? because it contains wrong info .. maybe for 93+ info is legitimate. I follow the instruction on how to check it and according to that pdf my 90 distributor fails, but my trucks start ok; i purchase also brand new coil from tyota, when I had starting problems; brand new coil from tyota according to that manual fails, according to my old coil it gets the same reading LOL

best u can do is to save ur money, gently take out pickup coils from distributor, clean everything inside and reinstall it; keep in mind that they do work in electromagnetic field, proper gapping is critical for this operation and yeah save urself time if u got problem with startup with 3vze, run extra subharness directly from ecm to distributor, good luck .. J

mugen2008

I have a ? Tested my dizzy and got signals within respectable range from the g1 and g2 terminals but none from the ne while hot. Took out dizzy and tested this morning at ambient temp. Got signals from g1 and g2 and also ne. could this be the cause of a loopy timing mark while shooting with diagnostic jumped? Shot timing at startup and it's solid no jumping. Once truck warms up jumps around. Want to know for sure befor dumping more cash into new dizzy.