RAD4Runner

Awesome! Thanks, Arlindsay. Like you how-to videos, it absolutely helps.
The problem with low volume air-flow is it causes the evaporator to freeze up if AC is very strong and causes even low or no flow, so I really wanna do this.

Yup. I use M.E.K. - LOL! I once found a quart can of MEK in a storage locker on our ship and people reacted like we'd have to decontaminate the whole place - LOL!

L5wolvesf

Great writ up Terry. Now I'm thinkin I may just tackle my A/C system too.

ewong

Having just done this recently

(yeah - I SHOULD have replaced the blower box when I had the EVAP box out, but at the time I didnt know I HAD a spare blower box)

yes - you can take the blower box OUT without taking the EVAP box out.
It helps to PEEL BACK the carpet. That extra 1/8 inch of clearance is crucial to getting the box in/out

If a recall, a 1/4 drive 8mm flex socket head and some 1/4 drive extension bars to a "T" slider bar - are really helpful.

See some pics on this thread

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...71/index2.html

If you have a mouse nest jammed agains the EVAP core, then build a mouse proof cage to the cowl intake.

Borrow or get a "see snake" (they've dropped in price since I got mine) and check to see how bad the eval box is.
At a minimium, use a shop vac toe clean it (if it needs it)

andrew520

So I was told I would have to remove the whole dash/gauge cluster etc. to replace my evap and expansion valve on my 1986 pickup. This shows otherwise. I just want to be sure that I can do it from underneath before I start ripping and tearing. It's a 37 year old system and I want to keep R12 but I want to replace ALL components to be sure this system lasts for years to come as R12 isn't cheap these days. Plus with my Weber conversion, I can't afford any more compressor load that 134A might put on the engine as I don't have an idle bump solenoid anymore.