YodarStockRock

THiIS IS A CULMINATION OF EVERYTHING FOR A 2ND GENERATION THAT IS ALREADY ON THIS SITE!!!!!!

Supplies:
2 Valve Cover Gaskets
1 Plenum to Intake Gasket
1 Throttle Body Gasket
1 PVC Valve
1 PVC Grommet
2 Rear Cam Seals
Heater Hose

Prep:
1. ERG- Spray ERG valve, bracket and hoses two days before project with WD-40.

2. Drain Coolant- Drain about two liters

3. Crack Open Gas Cap-

Steps:
1. Label all hoses and parts- Using masking tape label all hoses and parts that will be removed.

2. Take pictures of all sides of the engine- Using a digital camera take pictures of the right, left, front, and top of the engine. This will help you replace all the hoses and parts in the correct position once reassembling.

3. Remove intake to throttle body- On the right side of the engine unscrew the hose clamps connecting the intake to the throttle body. (Pic 2) Put rag in open ends.

4. Disconnect throttle body from plenum- See Attachment A

5. Remove ERG Valve and Bracket- Unscrew and unbolt the ERG valve from the intake. Also, remove all hoses connected to it. (Pic 3)

6. Disconnect all hoses- Unplug all the right and left side spark plugs. Carefully disconnect the TB sensor and cold start wire. (Pic 4) Cold start injector is in the plenum, passenger side right in the middle. It has a metal fuel line and an electrical connector. Loosen and disconnect all hoses and wires restricting the upward motion to the plenum. Drain enough coolant from the system so that the coolant hoses to the heater, and the 2 small ones connected to the throttle body don't squirt out.

7. Disconnecting the Plenum- (Pic 7) Make sure that everything is disconnected from the plenum from the right and center sides. There is a hose that connects to part of the reed valve (under plenum) that makes lifting difficult. You can get to the hose clamp with a screwdriver. Or just pop it off by forcing it up. DON’T BREAK TVV SENSOR (Pic 1) Lift up the plenum and prop up using the center of the intake as a base. (Pic 5)

8. Removing Valve Cover (Right)- (Pic 8) Loosen the right valve cover bolts in reverse sequence. Pry off valve cover with a gentle crow bar or chisel and rubber hammer. Scrape all existing gasket parts off both ends being careful not to get any pieces into the engine.

9. Untorqueing the cram shaft- Go backwards in ½ turn increments. Do just enough to slide the rear cam seal out.

10. Removing the rear cam seal- Loosen all bearing caps in order to get the rear one out. If you just loosen the rear bearing cap, you risk breaking the cam. Unscrew the round plate holding the seal in (10mm ). Just loosen them up enough to slide the rear seal out.

11. Replacing the rear cam seal- Replace it and use high temp rtv all the way around it. Just not a bunch because you don't want to get the rear oil hole next to the bottom of the cam blocked off. Once the seal is in place then place the retaining ring back on with 2 bolts (10mm) enough to hold the seal into place.

12. Retorquing the cam shaft- Retorque the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 12ft lbs. Snug up the rear retaining ring bolts.

13. Preparing the mating ends for the valve cover gasket- Clean both ends with acetone and plastic scraper. Wear gloves.

14. Installing the valve cover gasket- Dab RTV sealant in the four corners of the head surfaces and coat the gasket with fresh oil. (Pic 6)

15. Assemble the valve cover- 48 in-lbs (4-5 ft-lbs). Tighten bolts in this order using ½ turn increments (Pic 8).

16. Remove Valve Cover (Right)- (Pic 8)Loosen the left valve cover bolts in reverse sequence. Pry off valve cover with a gentle crow bar or chisel and rubber hammer. Scrape all existing gasket parts off both ends being careful not to get any pieces into the engine

17. Untorqueing the crank shaft- Go backwards in ½ turn increments. Do just enough to slide the rear cam seal out.

18. Removing the rear cam seal- Loosen all bearing caps in order to get the rear one out. If you just loosen the rear bearing cap, you risk breaking the cam. Unscrew the round plate holding the seal in (10mm ). Just loosen them up enough to slide the rear seal out



19. Replacing the rear cam seal- Loosen all bearing caps in order to get the rear one out. If you just loosen the rear bearing cap, you risk breaking the cam. Unscrew the round plate holding the seal in (10mm ). Just loosen them up enough to slide the rear seal out

20. Retorqueing the cam shaft- Retorque the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 12ft lbs. Snug up the rear retaining ring bolts.

21. Preparing the mating ends for the valve cover gasket- Clean both ends with acetone and plastic scraper. Wear gloves.

22. Installing the valve cover gasket- Dab RTV sealant in the four corners of the head surfaces and coat the gasket with fresh oil. (Pic 6)

23. Assemble the valve cover- 48 in-lbs. Tighten bolts in this order using ½ turn increments (Pic 8).

24. Connecting the Plenum- (Pic 7) Put all the hoses and bolts and stuff back on the plenum and bolt it in.

25. Connect all hoses- Put all stuff back where it’s supposed to go. Plug spark plugs in order.

26. Attach ERG Valve and Bracket- Screw and bolt the ERG valve back on the intake. Also, attach all hoses need to be connected to it. (Pic 3)

27. Attach throttle body from plenum- See Attachment A

28. Attach intake to throttle body- Reattach the Throttle Body- 69 in-lbs. On the right side of the engine, screw the hose clamps connecting the intake to the throttle body. (Pic 2) Take rags out of open ends.

29. Take pictures of all sides of the engine- Using a digital camera take pictures of the right, left, front, and top of the engine. This will help you replace all the hoses and parts in the correct position once reassembling.

30. Clean up- Take all the tape and other stuff out of your engine bay.

Post Project Follow Up:
1. Change the Oil- Within a week be sure to change the oil.

2. Replace Lost Coolant- Dump drained coolant back in reservoir.(probably don't need to do this.)




EMAIL ME FOR PICS IF YOU WANT THEM. KNOTTIER@BELLSOUTH.NET


HOPE THIS HELPS.

GOD BLESS.

js9924

its not pvc valve its pcv for positive crankcase ventilation why does everyone do that?

shancerlelby

erg valve good write up tho. good for alot of novice guys. you can throw the valve adjusting in there too since you have the vc's off anyways

YodarStockRock

Yea....pcv whatever....and vavle adjusting would be good, I just didn't know how to do that at the time and it didn't need it. Even still, a Yota doesn't need any adjustment ever; just run it till it's dead.

gtlegs

What engine is this for?

PCE91V64x4

2 valve covers so it is for V6.

iamsuperbleeder

you may want to specify that this is for a 3.0, for some of the nuB's


at first, I read 2 valve covers, and was like


good job though! very thorough

gtlegs

good catch! Im more of a picture guy.

YodarStockRock

Unfortunately I've lost the original post that I saved on my computer with all the pictures and diagram attachments. I must have helped 30 people though private email with that. I've moved on to jeeps but have one more Toyota, and it's for sale....I'm headed to the United States Coast Guard Academy and can't have a vehicle..

awareness

Old thread I know, but I've got a leaking valve cover on my 3.0 now and am debating whether to tackle this myself or get raped at the mechanics. I have very little experience wrenching and think there is a lot of potential for me to screw this one up.

Would love the photos if anybody has them.

92 TOY

watch this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-201583/

CAMO is just tearing down right now, as well as I have come across several threads detailing the same.

sounds like a job do-able for me and you and anyone else.

YodarStockRock

Yeah man, you can totally do it. The only thing that will be different between you and I would be the time. I just know exactly what is next and how to get off said bolt. So just allow plenty of time and take lots of pictures and you'll be good. You pretty much only need this post and the link above if you want, and a Haynes Manual and you'll be set. Shot me bc if there's any questions.

awareness

I figured as much. This is my DD so I've got to be able to do it in a weekend I suppose. I read another thread where somebody, who presumably knew what they were doing, took 7 to 8 hours to do this job with the help of a couple of buddies. Does that sound like an average amount of time for this job?

Thanks for the encouraging words by the way, would be great if this saves me $500 (or more) at the mechanics.

arielb1

Now you come out with this post...geez.

I did mine over the weekend. It took me 10 hours taking my time. If I had to do it again, I suppose it would take me 6 hours. This was a fun and learning job.

The most time consuming for me:
1. removing the gaskets and cleaning. I use a plastic scraper. The acetone didnt help much. I heard use a gasket cleaner or a brillo type tool that attaches to a drill that can be found at Walmart.
2. I didnt know much about bearing caps - I do now.
3. Driver side was leaking at the bearing cap, so I had to get the part. I lossened the passenger side bearing caps, but I couldnt get the cap next closest to the firewall off. It was on there good so I left it alone since it was not leaking.
4. The 1/2 water hose under the plenum was a painful to take off. Luckily I purchased a radiator hose pick tool to lossen it around the pipe. This is a great tool to have. It is like an ice pic, but it is curvy.
5. Pictures are a must. I used the orange painter's tape (great since it really sticks)to number all the hose, but one I missed. Take extra pics of EGR setup. Great to have pics.

It looks intimidating, but really not. The plenum is scary to take off, but now that I have done it, not so bad after all. Gotta have a torque wrench for this one though.

Great work Yodar...hope you come out with more of these writeups. I do them so it is nice when I see others doing it...just wished this was availalble to me earlier.

I had two oil leaks. One from the driver side bearing cap that can be easily seen with a mirror. The cap is in front of the driver firewall. My other oil leak was from the passenger rear (closest to the firewall) valve cover. When I got off the valve cover, it was evident the leak had been there for some time. If you look, from the front of the truck towards the back firewall through all the wires, you should be able to see the rear of the valve cover if it is leaking. With small hands, I was able to feel back there for the leak. Mirrors can help you find it.

Cheers

laskt9

just throwin this out there... wd40 isnt a penetrant its a water displacer but good write up