Hot idle/ restart rough idle and stall
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Hot idle/ restart rough idle and stall
so here is the issue, When I start the truck up in the morning and the choke kicks in it runs great, no matter how far I drive it acts 85% normal except for some mildly rough idle, truck just shakes a bit. When I stop somewhere and then restart the truck hot (no choke) it will shake hard and idle goes up to about 900 then back down to 3-400 every second and 50% of the time dies. After about a minute or 2 the idle smooths most of the way out. Except for low power and crappy mileage (constantly 14.3 MPG) it runs fine off idle.
HG was replaced about 9000 miles ago according to the last owner at Toyo dealership, from what I read here they should have replaced the knock sensor as well?
Recently Replaced:
PWR steering pump/ vacuum valve
All plugs/Wires cap & roter
o2 sensor
air filter
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
HG was replaced about 9000 miles ago according to the last owner at Toyo dealership, from what I read here they should have replaced the knock sensor as well?
Recently Replaced:
PWR steering pump/ vacuum valve
All plugs/Wires cap & roter
o2 sensor
air filter
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Last edited by KaptainKoolz; 12-12-2012 at 03:15 PM.
#5
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I've never had that specific issue but I have had low idle issues. Mine turned out to be a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) that didn't throw a check engine light. You can test it per the FSM specs with an ohmeter, just search the forums and you should find several threads on how to do it. It may be engaging/disengaging rapidly (mine did it but only a couple times a minute), it also affects fuel economy. Although 14 mpg is not uncommon of with these trucks. Don't buy a new one unless you know you need to replace it. You'll need a feeler gauge (set of very thin pieces of metal) to do it right.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
If you do end up replacing the TPS, I'd recommend taking off the Throttle Body as well and cleaning it out real good. Makes adjusting the TPS much easier as well. I recommend a second pair of hands, makes adjusting it much easier. Sludge can buildup around the valve, making you have to give it more throttle to accelerate. Might be good to also take off the accelerator cable off and inspect if for damage. Blow the housing out with carb cleaner and lube the cable up with grease to ensure it's not sticking on anything.
A TPS will run you about $100 (I recommend Denso, a cheap off-brand broke on me three days in) so don't replace it needlessly. Do the check and see if it's working right first.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf
If you do end up replacing the TPS, I'd recommend taking off the Throttle Body as well and cleaning it out real good. Makes adjusting the TPS much easier as well. I recommend a second pair of hands, makes adjusting it much easier. Sludge can buildup around the valve, making you have to give it more throttle to accelerate. Might be good to also take off the accelerator cable off and inspect if for damage. Blow the housing out with carb cleaner and lube the cable up with grease to ensure it's not sticking on anything.
A TPS will run you about $100 (I recommend Denso, a cheap off-brand broke on me three days in) so don't replace it needlessly. Do the check and see if it's working right first.
Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 12-13-2012 at 02:06 PM.
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