rangerruck

Okay, I'm stupid, but there must be something I am not seeing.
I have an 88 4rnr, sr5 4x4, and the horn cap is looseish, and the horn does not go off when you push on it. I have the distinct feeling i have a loose wire under there, but cannot figure out how to get the horn cap off. who knows?

ET

you should be able to just pull it off. just to be safe though you might take the trim around the steering column off and look at it from behind to make sure it isn't screwed in or something.

Teuf

Is it the stock steering wheel?

myyota

If its the stock steering wheel there might be some screws on the back side of the steering wheel that need to be removed to get the center cap off.

davo247d

on mine theres a screw kinda underneath the horn portion????

socal_style

I just recently fixed my horn too. I took a bunch of pictures, so I will do a write up later. The copper part that goes behind the steering wheel wears out, so I fixed it by adding some washers underneath it, to make it stick out enough to make contact to the pin.

TO remove the steering wheel remove the one phillips screw on the lower side of the steering wheel cap, Its from behind. Then you need a steering wheel puller/harmonic balancer or some tool like that to pull the steering wheel off.

I will try to make a how to repair horn thread later this week.

PETDOC

'88 4Runner SR5 had exactly the same problem and I fixed it exactly the same way----3 small washers. Not sure if the wear is on the ring or the top of the spring loaded contact.

rangerruck

..Wait, wait, wait... it is a stock wheel; so are we saying, you have to REMOVE the steering wheel, to get to the horn, or just pop the top off, which may or may not be held in place, by a screw from the rear?

PETDOC

Mine is stock. As I recall I had to remove a screw (in back I think) to slide the padded front center portion up and off. There is a wire attached that is then easily slipped off. Now remove the nut holding the wheel on. If you have a puller the next step is simple. I did not and had to use a rubber mallet banging on the back of the wheel to get it to pop off. If you use my technique you need to be very careful you don't hit either of the two control arms (lights, wipers, cruise control etc...). Don't ask me how I know this. Once the steering wheel pops off you will see the circular plate held on by 3 screws and the spring loaded contact. I lightly sanded the surface of the spring loaded contact with 400 grit sandpaper. Remove the 3 small screws holding the circular plate (clean also), place 3 very small washers behind it, replace and screw it back on. Put your steering wheel back on--straight. Actually before beginning place your front wheels dead straight ahead. After steering wheel is on take front center cover, reattach wire, slip down and replace screw. If you had the same problem I did you will now hear a beep, beep.

PETDOC

Rangerruck after sleeping on it I now remember the exact sequence of events to resolving my horn problem. I did the repair as described and horn worked fine for about 6 months, then only when steering wheel was positioned straight ahead. Took it apart a second time and put another set of washers in; hasn't missed a beep since. So you may want to use exceptionally thick washers or stack 2 them.

rangerruck

OTAY KIDS, I GOT IT!!!! I am very happy like that, because I really don't have the guts or natural inclination to work on cars, but I am mechanical and work on computers, printers, cables, network stuff, and the likes all day.
Now then, can you do this without pulling your steering wheel? yes, but you will hate yourself, and your Chiropractor in the morning, so I won't get into that way.
There is a screw, in the bottom back, of the steering wheel; centered, at the bottom of the wheel. It is a standard size, so use a number 2 or 3 Philips head.
If you have one with a shank at least 6 inches long or longer, you will want this as well; it helps to clear the bottom of the steering wheel housing.
Unscrew this screw; the horn cover will now slide up about 1to 2 inch if you push on the bottom of it; then the cover lifts right off!!! It has 1 slip on wire attachement there, this wire completes the horn loop. Turn this over; the pad sits on top of 2 brackets that face each other, but are seperated by 4 springs- this keeps the metal brackets from touching each other constantly, and allways having the horn go off. If you wanna, you can unscrew the top pad, just too look at things better when testing- but it is not necessary; I did take mine off though.
The steering wheel is held on by the big center nut; loosen that, comes off
pretty easy. then you will proly need a small rubber sledge and whack the back of the steering wheel in a few diff places about 10 times; then it will come right off.
turn the wheel over; it is nothing to the horn contact; just a big donut hole shaped thingy, with 3 flanges at about 11 2 and 6 oclock, there are screw holes through these flanges. Loosen them, and the donut will come off.
I used 1 washer under each of these flanges, proly a 32/inch thick.
Now put back on donut/screws and test. You do not need to screw anything
else back together to test really; just put the steering wheel back on, put the horn bracket back on, attach the wire, and push- either it will work or it won't.
Mine did worky, but not great, so I took it off, and added another layer of washers- now having 2 under each donut flange, 2 seems to be the consensu
here; I put 3 on just to look at it, but that looked like whaaayyy too much, so I went back down to 2 under each flange.
Put the steering wheel on, then it's nut; put the horn bracket pad back on- held by 4 screws, the copper donut used 3 screws, hooked up the wire, and reattached the whole bracket assy., to the steering wheel- 1 screw.
Tested, and worked like a champ!!! Plus I used the 1 screwdriver for the whole thing, and 1 socket wrench, about a 18 or 20mm I think for the steering wheel nut; that's it, 2 tools. Oh, and the sledge.
So don't be afraid to try it folks, the steering wheel ain't so bad!!!!

myyota

What actually wears out is the pin contact, and you can get a new one from the dealer. The part # 84312-20011 .

rangerruck

... or you could proly just solder a bit on top of the contact, but this way is easier and cheaper by far I am sure, than buying a new part.

flyingbrass

I just got done replacing my contact plunger. It only cost $4.66 online. The old one's contact portion was worn down to less than half its original length. Replacing the plunger is a little extra hassle, but the fix should last longer than shimming the contact plate.

I pulled the wheel and removed the upper and lower plastic column covers (screws from underneath). Took out 4 bolts holding the switch assembly, then unplugged the wiring connectors near the dash so it could slide forward off the shaft.

The plunger is held in from the back side with a small c-clip. Remove it and take the cylindrical wiring connector off the end of the plunger. Reassemble in reverse order. The fidgety part is getting the new tiny c-clip in place. Needle nose pliers worked.

rangerruck

that is very interesting; if the part is that cheap!!! is that the same part number, as shown in the post above?

rangerruck

... just read from another post/site on a great fix for this. take off steering wheel, and expose the brass post/contact plunger. slip an empty 22 lr case over the end of it.
All done!!!! how cool is that? goes perfect with your screen name...

flyingbrass

Yep, 84312-20011. I don't know what years it covers. Retail is $6.46, so if that's the only part you need you're better off buying it locally instead of paying shipping.

flyingbrass

The new plunger is about .2" longer than my old worn one. It'll tolerate a lot more wear than the thickness of a .22 case head.

That's the problem with shimming the plate or slightly extending the pin -- the fix won't last long. You'll be in there again.