High oil pressure, yet again
#1
High oil pressure, yet again
OK, so I just installed a new Autometer electric oil pressure gauge & hardware on my 92 3.0. The install pics are on: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ensors-153167/
When I start it (cold start) my PSI pegs to 100. Within a few minutes, it backs down to 50-75. Once at idle or cruising speed, 25 or so, will spike up to 75-90 with acceleration.
From what I can read from specs, numbers should be much lower, and pressure pop-off is actually around 75. Also have read that hi pressures like this are often caused by clog in system or buggered up oil pump. (It's not likely to be the ground as it grounds to the block through the fitting)
Would appreciate any thoughts on this!
When I start it (cold start) my PSI pegs to 100. Within a few minutes, it backs down to 50-75. Once at idle or cruising speed, 25 or so, will spike up to 75-90 with acceleration.
From what I can read from specs, numbers should be much lower, and pressure pop-off is actually around 75. Also have read that hi pressures like this are often caused by clog in system or buggered up oil pump. (It's not likely to be the ground as it grounds to the block through the fitting)
Would appreciate any thoughts on this!
#4
Registered User
hmm... try running some synthetic in there and see what happens. when i run synthetic vs reg, i notice slightly lower oil pressure readings. i dunno just a thought.
p.s high oil pressure, is better than no oil pressure.
p.s high oil pressure, is better than no oil pressure.
#7
Registered User
tapping in directly at the oil pump could result in higher readings.
I'd suggest using the plug under the existing sender or just take out the original sender and use that location.
I'd suggest using the plug under the existing sender or just take out the original sender and use that location.
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#8
Registered User
#9
I in fact did use the plug under the existing sender. The issue is that per many sources, too high pressure = result of plugging or flow problem. When pressure is way high --> bad for seals, gaskets, etc.
#13
Dale, I figured you'd chime in sooner or later...Thanks!
Alas, mine is no SR5, so all I got for stock is the useless warning light, tho that never goes off. DOH maybe that's useful info?.
I do find it interesting that this (the pressure issue) is such an unclear topic for so many folks.
Alas, mine is no SR5, so all I got for stock is the useless warning light, tho that never goes off. DOH maybe that's useful info?.
I do find it interesting that this (the pressure issue) is such an unclear topic for so many folks.
#15
Contributing Member
Here it is, 36-75 psi @ 3000 rpms and normal operating
temperature.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...16oilpress.pdf
Sounds like you're about right to me. Natually it will be higher with cold oil or heavier weight.
temperature.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...16oilpress.pdf
Sounds like you're about right to me. Natually it will be higher with cold oil or heavier weight.
Last edited by mt_goat; 10-01-2008 at 09:01 AM.
#16
D, I've been looking for that page for ages...thanks much. I find mine is idling at 25 (high), and at 3000 rpm about 50-75. However when I accelerate, goes to 100 and levels as high at cold start. Some have suggested you can get higher pressure readings if attached at pump chamber, tho not sure if so (might is sensor near pump outflow). Others have said that the "pressure relief" valve is set at 75. I am guessing now that just reading artificially high rather than some clog/obstruction?
#17
Contributing Member
I'm thinking the specs are for 3000 rpms with the truck sitting still (no load, just reving) and you should just go by that.
The brand of oil filter will probably have an effect on the max bypass valve pressure.
The brand of oil filter will probably have an effect on the max bypass valve pressure.
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
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one other thing about high oil pressure- if it's too high it won't be able to leak around the crank and rod bearings like it's supposed to and can get behind a bearing and cause it to spin... and if that happens, the bearing will end up blocking it's own oil supply passage and can cause the crank to seize or a rod to seize and get 'thrown'.
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