95T4rLimited

Im thinking about getting some hid's for my t4r but dont know which route to go. I wanna be able to have high and low beams( looked around and noticed that some do not have high and low beams). Wanting to go pretty bright (8k+).
What kits do you guys recommend and should i get the relay for the battery and the slim ballast option? Any tips would be highly appericated.

Thanks.

subi_stout

I used to have hid's in my impreza with the highs and lows. I had 6k which was plenty birght and the cops didn't bother me.... You get what you pay for, when it comes to quality. the ballasts are great and they claim the can take some serious abuse. If your hard on your truck i wouldn't waste the money. I had a bulb blow on my impreza and it was like 50 bux for a replacement bulb and it took a few days to come in... If i were you. i would restore the lenses on your truck to make them more clear then buy some hyper white/blue bulbs.... A good hid kit should cost more than 150.... O and if you got fog lights too.... get 3k bulbs with the ballast setup. it looks boss (or it did on my subi, 6k on top, 3k on the bottom) very nice yellow color, great for snow. good luck

subi_stout

anything brighter than 8k is going to be quite blue. might attract then po-po more (then add in possible other illegal mods like exhaust and such and your waiting for tickets to come (atleast in NY its like that))

95T4rLimited

a subie isnt really the same as a 4ruuner, no offense. I already have clear lenses and some silvania ultras, but i was just testing the waters hid wise. I live in kentucky so i doubt the laws are too stiff as far as brightness. I think the extra 100 bucks for the kit when my bulbs go bad would be worth it. I just wanted some tips as to if the oem wiring harness would hold up too it. But i wouldent want the local porkers pullin me over atm because im 16 and still havent gotten my liscense yet (i know, pretty ignorant right? but my dad has parkinsons so its just safer if i drive.) I think 6ks would probaly be a good route but ill have too look into it more.

totogsr

google the color spectrum of the kelvin ratings, it will help you out a lot when deciding what kelvin rating you order. the oem wiring harness will hold up to the hid kit no problem but the oem switching is a different story. i just went through the same thing with my 95 4runner. the oem switching of the headlight bulb is funky. not what the way the hid kits switch. it was something weird about the ground jumping around with the the way the high beam works and something about the high beam indicator on your cluster. i dont want to feed you the wrong info (because i really didnt care about my dash indicator working or not) so do a quick search here for problems with the hid kits in our runners.


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#HarnessTypes


some very good info in that link. do yourself the favor and read there before you curse up a storm later when your hid kit doesnt work correctly. (been there done that myself!)

SCToy

First off, the Temperature is not a measure of brightness, it's related to the color of the light. White light is the most useable, so 4300k (the temperature of the sun) is the ideal if you're looking for the most useable light. Higher temperature gets into the blues and purple, which are not good. Lower temps are yellow, good for fog lights.

Secondly, putting HIDs in a reflector housing for your main head lights is just a D-Bag thing to do. It blinds oncoming traffic and it's obnoxious for anyone you're following. Reflector housings are not designed for HIDs and they scatter the light all over which is why it blinds people.

If you want HIDs then you should buy a QUALITY kit, not some cheap chinese BS, that plugs right into you're stock harness. It's just asking for them to burn out while you're driving, an then where will you be?

You need to do a HID retrofit with projectors, it's a bit more work, but it's the only way that is worth it. These guys have everything you need. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

If you're looking for a cheap option that actually yields some decent light for the money, then look at getting the Hella E-Codes, they replace the sealed beam lights with a proper head light, with a decent beam pattern, that allows for better bulb options. Also beef up your wiring harness, that'll go a long ways.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I bought HIDs for my Sequoia after seeing positive reviews on Tundra Solutions forum. I took them back out after 2 days. I got 5k and they were really blue, useable light output was worse than stock halogen, and were obnoxiously bright looking for oncoming traffic. I now use, and love, Silverstar Ultra (4100k)

NorthBendneck

i had a 6k low beam only kit in my 91 4runner, which i took out and put in my new 91 pickup, and i never had any problems with the cops, i picked it up for 70 bucks for the kit, and ordered some reflective h4 non sealed houising lenses for the swap. the lenses were 22 bucks after shipping. ive had them for about 8 months and ive done offroading and daily driving and they have yet to let me down. on top of that i have swapped them through 3 trucks haha. im uin washington and was looking up some kits today and i can pick up a set of 6-12k hids with balasts wiring bulbs and the actual headlamps for a total of 85 for them all, im thinking of giving my girlfriend my 6ks and going to 8k highlow beams.

954x4runner

Anything above 6k is a waste of money. If you don't believe me, you should try driving in the rain at night with 8k+ hids. Doesn't work too well.

95T4rLimited

Thanks for all the help. Sounds like the silverstar ultras that are in it now is the best option. There pretty bright as it is, ive just seen some veichles around here that run some type of blue hid's and they are unbelievably bright and look pretty cool IMO. I doubt the 6ks or under are any better then these silverstar's to be worth it. Maybe in the future ill throw some 10ks in it just for giggles. Theres alot of D-bags around here that like to leave their brights on and it would be satisfying to blind them back with some 10ks. I could just get fog lights and throw some hid's in em for that purpose and as well as for the deer around here. Once again thanks for the help.

SCToy

The number you are listing is the temperature, which is the color of the light. Lumens is a measure of light output, or brightness. 10k HIDs will put out less lumens than a 6k which will put out less than. 4300k.
Only go up in temp if you get 55watt HIDs, then a 6k is acceptable.

There is a reason oem HIDs are 4300k not 10k

BMcEL

Unless you are using a REAL projector (I'm gonna go with this eventually), HIDs are a waste of money. HIDs don't refract properly in a halogen reflector housing and the light scatters everywhere as mentioned above.

Also, the higher up in kelvin you go, the more the light will refract and 'bounce' off the road instead of illuminating it. This is especially noticeable in wet conditions and it can become very difficult to see the road.

Performance halogen is a cost effective (and very viable) alternative to a proper HID/projector conversion. If you do stick with halogen, I recommend upgrading your wiring harness, even if you're not running high watt bulbs.

ProjectMcFly

This.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

So much information on this website.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html

HID specific information.

After reading all about that site, I elected to just stay with my OEM (crappy) sealed beams since I didn't have the budget for proper Hella E-Codes when I pulled my front bumper off to put on the ARB. It's now a total pain to swap bulbs, so I'm just using the sealed until they die.

I have a set of 55w yellow fog/driving lights that I will use if I need more light and then the 130w Daylighters if I'm in a remote area and need OMGLIGHT.

BMcEL

Very informative site...I found that when researching my first attempt at an HID conversion and forgot about it until now.

You can get Autopal housings for around $30 on ebay and based on reviews from numerous members on this forum and others, they rival the Hella e-codes.

ProjectMcFly

I definitely thought about going that route...my problem is more pulling the ARB to pull the grille.

Maybe I can bribe a friend assuming my timing chain holds out until the bulbs blow :sigh:

BMcEL

Your '93's headlight doors are a little different than my '90 but I can pull my headlight housings without taking the front end apart...I also have a billet grill so the headlight doors have a little room to move and I can sneak a screwdriver past them.