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hesitation. need some feedback

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Old 10-14-2009, 07:15 PM
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hesitation. need some feedback

I don't know what a plugged cat feels like, but I need some feedback. Lately, on a first start, my struck has been hesitating on first and second gear. If I rev high and throw it into second at 3000 RPMS, and shift from second to third at 3000 rpms, I don't run into trouble.

Here's the scenario. I shift from 1st to 2nd at about 2000-2500 RPMS. It will shudder and not want to accelerate, no matter how much gas I give it. It jerks back and feels like a monster that wants to be let loose off of its chain, but it holds back.

I could not replicate the problem in any other gear but 1st and 2nd (mostly 2nd.)

Once I've had the engine started and have been driving, it's all good. Until I turn the engine off again and let it sit for 10 minutes.

Only code I'm getting is for an EGR problem. Everything else is fine. No more vacuum leak. I checked the clutch pedal play and even loosened it. It's all good, but no change. TPS has just been adjusted and has been fine up until now.

So what could it be? A plugged cat? Bad O2 sensor? Or could this be a result of the EGR code, which has never given me an issue the entire time I've had this code?
Old 10-14-2009, 07:30 PM
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The problem your having could very well be caused by the EGR, try fixing it first and see if it helps. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced ?, that could also cause a hesatation.
Old 10-14-2009, 07:32 PM
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a stuck open EGR can give similar symptoms

considering that you're getting a code for the EGR system, I think I'd start looking there


pull it off and take a look at it. you may be able to clean it up and free the stuck valve instead of buying a new one
Old 10-15-2009, 05:54 AM
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Forgot to mention the fuel filter was replaced the same time the plugs and wires were. About 10,000 miles ago or less.
Old 10-15-2009, 10:59 AM
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I just bought all the extensions I'll be needing to reach the EGR for removal. I got to thinking: is it possible to clean the EGR by running seafoam or injector cleaner (with PEA) through the EGR? Can you hook up a bottle of it to a vacuum line and have it run through the egr and clean/lubricate the thing?
Old 10-15-2009, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave
I just bought all the extensions I'll be needing to reach the EGR for removal. I got to thinking: is it possible to clean the EGR by running seafoam or injector cleaner (with PEA) through the EGR? Can you hook up a bottle of it to a vacuum line and have it run through the egr and clean/lubricate the thing?
That right there is a good question.

I've got an EGR code and have a hesitation between 2500 and 2800 rpm in first second and a little in third. I'd much rather Seafoam that thing instead of pulling it to clean it.
Old 10-15-2009, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkers88
That right there is a good question.

I've got an EGR code and have a hesitation between 2500 and 2800 rpm in first second and a little in third. I'd much rather Seafoam that thing instead of pulling it to clean it.
It's a lot of work, but what I may end up doing is removing it and inspect it, then reinstall it and try cleaning it and then remove it again and see how well the cleaning did.

I'm short on time, so I probably can't do this. Plus, I think it may need some scrubbing. Maybe for routine maintenance it can be cleaned this way, but mine might be so clogged it needs to be scraped and scrubbed.

I have another question. I have a problem with my bolts on the egr behind the throttle body. One bolt is stripped and I can see the threads came out when I pulled the bolt off. I have a different sized bolt in there now (too big) but it's holding in place. Would the threads on the throttle body be stripped too? Or are the threads on the bolt more sensitive and weak than the threads on the aluminum block? I'm worried I stripped them. I'd have no problem using a helicoil to fix it, but that would mean removing the entire intake.There's no room to drill an oversized hole with the intake on.
Old 10-17-2009, 09:18 AM
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NO. You CANNOT clean the EGR while it is on. I didn't take mine off, but I was trying to clean it still attached through the vacuum lines. Ended up bogging down the engine and cuased it to almost stall at every stoplight. Ther fluid would not burn off either, it just kept circulating until I dumped it out (this was carb cleaner I used).

Got it dumped out while on my lunch break and got the hoses free of liquid. Runs fine at the moment, I'll see how it drives on the way home.
Old 10-20-2009, 12:37 PM
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So I just removed both EGR pieces and they look fine. Cleaning the one that attaches to the head right now, but it looks okay. What else could cause the hesitation? It hasn't done it since last week.
Old 10-20-2009, 01:04 PM
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well first off...a truck wont run with carb cleaner runnin through it..lol..it probably wouldnt run if you had a can of seafoam hooked up like you described..just take it off and inspect/clean it you might get a LITTLE bit cleaned by running a fluid through it but it would only last a few weeks or months at most, it'll be better to just take it off and clean it..

*EDIT*totally didnt read that last post were you took the pieces off..LOL!!!

check ya fuel filters..if that dont work..might check the cat??

Last edited by camo31_10.50; 10-20-2009 at 01:05 PM.
Old 10-20-2009, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by camo31"10.50"
well first off...a truck wont run with carb cleaner runnin through it..lol..it probably wouldnt run if you had a can of seafoam hooked up like you described..just take it off and inspect/clean it you might get a LITTLE bit cleaned by running a fluid through it but it would only last a few weeks or months at most, it'll be better to just take it off and clean it..

*EDIT*totally didnt read that last post were you took the pieces off..LOL!!!

check ya fuel filters..if that dont work..might check the cat??
I figured the EGR was just circulating the exhaust gases around to the intake where it could be burned off, so I figured I'd let carb cleaner sit in each piece overnight and I was hoping it would evaporate or burn off.

I think cat is next to check, as the fuel filter is almost new.
Old 10-20-2009, 01:20 PM
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i go through a fuel filter about once every 6000 or 8000 miles...idk if its bad gas..or a bad tank??

and i aint about to drop my tank and find out LOL
Old 10-20-2009, 01:34 PM
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That's not a lot of miles for a fuel filter. I've heard they need to be replaced maybe every 50 to 100k. Not 5k. If it was easy to get to I might consider it, but it's a pain in the rear to get to this fuel filter. I don't know why toyota didn't do what suzuki did and just put it right in front of the fuel tank so you can get access underneath the truck.
Old 11-07-2009, 03:05 PM
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So I fixed the EGR code. No CEL right now. Next suspected item is the cat and the O2 sensors.

Do I need to replace both o2 sensors, or just the front one? It's a cali emissions truck, but which o2 sensor affects performance?
Old 11-07-2009, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave
So I fixed the EGR code. No CEL right now. Next suspected item is the cat and the O2 sensors.

Do I need to replace both o2 sensors, or just the front one? It's a cali emissions truck, but which o2 sensor affects performance?
How did you fix it? I pulled mine and cleaned it again and the CEL was out for almost 150 miles before bringing back the same code.
Old 11-07-2009, 03:42 PM
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I just removed the EGR that connects to the head and cleaned it really good. I let it soak in carb cleaner, ran one of those tiny thin pipe cleaners through it, scrubbed the carbon out, and then ran it through the dishwasher.

I also cleaned the egr temperature sensor at the back of the throttle body and managed to strip those bolts. So that temperature sensor is clean as well. After all this I had to remove the battery cable to clear the code. I can't remove the EFI fuse to reset codes.

I think other than cleaning it, the only thing different now is it has RTV gasket instead of the (now ripped) paper gasket.
Old 11-07-2009, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave
I just removed the EGR that connects to the head and cleaned it really good. I let it soak in carb cleaner, ran one of those tiny thin pipe cleaners through it, scrubbed the carbon out, and then ran it through the dishwasher.

I also cleaned the egr temperature sensor at the back of the throttle body and managed to strip those bolts. So that temperature sensor is clean as well. After all this I had to remove the battery cable to clear the code. I can't remove the EFI fuse to reset codes.

I think other than cleaning it, the only thing different now is it has RTV gasket instead of the (now ripped) paper gasket.
I'll have to try the dishwasher trick. Thanks!!
Old 11-07-2009, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkers88
I'll have to try the dishwasher trick. Thanks!!
I mostly did that to get off the carb cleaner residue and to run it through a hot water cycle. I didn't use any detergent, but I should have seeing as how there was a load of dishes in, lol.
Old 11-07-2009, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DupermanDave
I mostly did that to get off the carb cleaner residue and to run it through a hot water cycle. I didn't use any detergent, but I should have seeing as how there was a load of dishes in, lol.
You washed the EGR with the dishes? And people call me a redneck. *laugh* I think what I'll do is hit the scrap yard this week and grab one so I can get it all cleaned up and do the swap in just a few minutes. Is there some way to check them to make sure the little baffle thing isn't busted inside?
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