Here's a new to me issue (timing related)
11-07-2016, 02:22 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hemet, CA.
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's a new to me issue (timing related)
I have a 92 4x4 22re 5spd. Was gonna check the timing before I take in for smog. The truck was warmed up and idling. I inserted the jumper from Te1 to E1 and there was no change in the idle. Past times it has always roughened the idle as it apparently should. I checked all the fuses and have no check engine light either (I even checked the bulb for the check engine light to be sure it was operational). Now I'm pretty sure that my distributor is off a tooth as it was at about 40* timing and turning it back all the way only brought it to 8* to which it ran like garbage at. I have noticed recently that the exhaust fumes are getting strong smelling and my gas mileage and power are diminishing. Funny thing is, the motor runs smooth as it is, no stumbles, smooth idle, no backfires, or anything. I'm stumped. Any help is appreciated.
11-07-2016, 03:45 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
If you have successfully jumpered Te1 to E1, then the CEL flashes evenly about 2x second. If you have no check engine light, the first thing to do is just turn the key. With key-on, engine-off, the CEL should be illuminated steadily. If that part works, the next thing I'd do is check that you've connected to the correct diagnostic terminals.
With Te1-E1 jumpered, the engine switches to BASE timing. Is that different than not-Base timing? It depends on temperature and other factors, so sometimes it is the same. In which case the timing (and rpm) doesn't change. (It should never run "rough" at base timing.)
Distributor gear: what setting are you trying to get to? If you are off a tooth, your range will be off by about 28 degrees.
With Te1-E1 jumpered, the engine switches to BASE timing. Is that different than not-Base timing? It depends on temperature and other factors, so sometimes it is the same. In which case the timing (and rpm) doesn't change. (It should never run "rough" at base timing.)
Distributor gear: what setting are you trying to get to? If you are off a tooth, your range will be off by about 28 degrees.
11-08-2016, 02:48 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
There is nothing about that in the service manual, http://web.archive.org/web/201501160...e/64tuneup.pdf
11-08-2016, 03:37 PM
#6
Registered User
I've got the ultimate source for that: Personal experience.
Here's a thread that makes reference to it.
Thread pertains to a 3vz, but I saw the same on my '87 22re.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...iot-me-281226/
Here's a thread that makes reference to it.
Thread pertains to a 3vz, but I saw the same on my '87 22re.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...iot-me-281226/
Trending Topics
12-12-2016, 01:36 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had the same problem. After trying all kinds of crap for days, somebody told me to unplug the TPS. I did and my timing went right back to normal. No changes in idle when jumping is a good sign of a bad TPS. My timing was off by alot, so simply unplugging may not give you your answer. Unplug it and check the resistance on it. I don't remember the numbers, but they are easy to find if you Google it.
