help:wierd find:but need help
#1
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help:wierd find:but need help
ok here goes i am new to the cite and to toyotas.
i found a 1990 extended cab yota. stoped and looked at it kid said he didnt have enough money to finish fixing it up. he droped the gas tank put all new pump in and moved didnt have the money or time to work on it so i snaged it up for a fairly cheep price.
said he hit a tree off roading pressure washed under the hood and was going down the road it spit and spudderd and no gas no power to coil.
(it had only been for sale for 4hrs) so towed it home put the gas tank in hooked everything up and...well mabey thought i was dumb for buying a truck that didnt run.so after a week of looking, searching, and pulling out my hair i traced out a problem. there was a 6 inch piece of speaker wire spliced in to the wiring harnest.apperently corrded from water and bumped loose from hitting the tree. put newwire in soilderd and used srink tube to fix it right. well it was going to the coil from ignition. finially a beak of luck and sounded like it could run. now still didnt have power to fule pump...still dont know how i fixed it but check power all the way down fule pump has power..?
unhooked the battery cable for an hour came back and it fired?
ran very very rough had been sitting for a year. blow black smoke and wouldnt idle. made loping sound with throttle (mabey tps?) but after about a week of starting looking around one night it just straitend out ran fine ilded?
but now it wont start unless u use starting fliud.so i figured mabey it wasnt getting enough spark. so i replaced cap, roter,wires,and plugs,and put a proformance coil on it. it still wont start with out starting fliud. runs fine idles no smoke once it warms up it will start up with a little gas pedle action.
its a 2.4ltr fi (22re) did a diagnostic check on it it said code 14 and 52 which is signal from ignitor to ecu and knock sensor. i have been reading on this site and nobody says the ignitor doesnt go bad offten so any advice is much appreciated.. mabey ignitor or idle air control valve or tps or cold start censor? or even ecu???????
i found a 1990 extended cab yota. stoped and looked at it kid said he didnt have enough money to finish fixing it up. he droped the gas tank put all new pump in and moved didnt have the money or time to work on it so i snaged it up for a fairly cheep price.
said he hit a tree off roading pressure washed under the hood and was going down the road it spit and spudderd and no gas no power to coil.
(it had only been for sale for 4hrs) so towed it home put the gas tank in hooked everything up and...well mabey thought i was dumb for buying a truck that didnt run.so after a week of looking, searching, and pulling out my hair i traced out a problem. there was a 6 inch piece of speaker wire spliced in to the wiring harnest.apperently corrded from water and bumped loose from hitting the tree. put newwire in soilderd and used srink tube to fix it right. well it was going to the coil from ignition. finially a beak of luck and sounded like it could run. now still didnt have power to fule pump...still dont know how i fixed it but check power all the way down fule pump has power..?
unhooked the battery cable for an hour came back and it fired?
ran very very rough had been sitting for a year. blow black smoke and wouldnt idle. made loping sound with throttle (mabey tps?) but after about a week of starting looking around one night it just straitend out ran fine ilded?
but now it wont start unless u use starting fliud.so i figured mabey it wasnt getting enough spark. so i replaced cap, roter,wires,and plugs,and put a proformance coil on it. it still wont start with out starting fliud. runs fine idles no smoke once it warms up it will start up with a little gas pedle action.
its a 2.4ltr fi (22re) did a diagnostic check on it it said code 14 and 52 which is signal from ignitor to ecu and knock sensor. i have been reading on this site and nobody says the ignitor doesnt go bad offten so any advice is much appreciated.. mabey ignitor or idle air control valve or tps or cold start censor? or even ecu???????
#3
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ok dad said he checked it out and its good. was wandering if anyone knows what tells the injectors to fire or the firing order of them?is it comming straight from ecu or a sensor?
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Injector signal comes from the ECU. Kinda sounds like you might still have an intermittent wiring issue and perhaps your cold start injector is not firing as the result of that. Check the wiring/connections around your ECU.
You may also want to pull your cold start injector and see if its firing when you crank. Just be sure you have something to catch any fuel if it does in fact squirt out.
Welcome to YT and good luck!
You may also want to pull your cold start injector and see if its firing when you crank. Just be sure you have something to catch any fuel if it does in fact squirt out.
Welcome to YT and good luck!
#6
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You might also put a vacuum gauge on there and see if you have a bad leak. Might as well rule out the simple stuff. All those little hoses could be cracked and leaking?
Frank
Frank
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Well it sounds like its getting fuel and spark, so its probably either getting too much air or not enough air. Make sure the filter and intake is clear then check for vacuum leaks as elripster suggested.
Let us know what you find!
Let us know what you find!
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#8
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Also check in wth the OHTTora Crew as they are local and are always wrenching together...
I you don't get what you newed here... try them..
http://www.ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=178
I you don't get what you newed here... try them..
http://www.ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=178
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ok well we tested everything and found out that the injector plugs have 12volts to both sides. so we unhooked ecu and battery still has resistance so i need to check the wires to the injector from ecu
#12
did you ever check your TPS or your Air flow meter? Sounds to me like one of those two.
Btw, if it starts with starting fluid, why would you change the cap/rotor/plugs/wires? Those components have nothing to do with fuel, which the starting fluid is substituting for.
Btw, if it starts with starting fluid, why would you change the cap/rotor/plugs/wires? Those components have nothing to do with fuel, which the starting fluid is substituting for.
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ok at the end of a very long week...
we tore in to the wiring harnest took intake off and pentive fule rale .
and tested agian still had 12v on both sides of injector plug. found the wires that fed all the injectors and separated them checked again and it was fixed on og wires was fused together. taped everything back up separatly. and then relized there was a huge ground unpluged???
had 4 brown wires hooked from a loop to the wiring harnest.
so we hooked it up.
put everything back together.
now it statrs with no problems but i am going to need new radiator hoses and a tsp.
thanks for all ur guys help and time !!!
anyone got a tps for sell cheap?
we tore in to the wiring harnest took intake off and pentive fule rale .
and tested agian still had 12v on both sides of injector plug. found the wires that fed all the injectors and separated them checked again and it was fixed on og wires was fused together. taped everything back up separatly. and then relized there was a huge ground unpluged???
had 4 brown wires hooked from a loop to the wiring harnest.
so we hooked it up.
put everything back together.
now it statrs with no problems but i am going to need new radiator hoses and a tsp.
thanks for all ur guys help and time !!!
anyone got a tps for sell cheap?