illicit

Ok I traded a 95 GS-R Integra to a 89 4X4 toyota pickup with a 22re. Ever since I got it, it will start and run for a couple secs then die. Ive been through everything. Checked the AFM, fuel pump and every thing else I can think of. It has a brand new fuel pump,fuel filter,Ignition coil,plugs and plug wires. The guy I got it from said he completely rebuilt it and short after the rebuild it started acting up. He said its in time but I havnt checked it my self yet, but its throwing a code 12 which is NO"Ne and G" Signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine is cranked. Can someone help. Also there is a plug un hooked and I cant find where it goes. The wire is long so it could go anywhere. Heres a pic.

abecedarian

Something to think about...
the code tells you where to look- No NE signal to ECU
The NE is derived from the distributor and goes to the igniter (the box on top of the coil) and the igniter sends the signal to the ECU.

illicit

yeah I found a yellow wire with a blue stripe broke into under the intake manifold but I cant find the other half...lol

abecedarian

Here's another, stronger hint: The ignition wiring (including the wire that carries the NE signal) runs from the distributor over to the coil, on the left side of the chassis.

A broken wire under the intake is not going to be the cause of your code.

Maybe pull the EFI fuse, or even the battery, for 10 minutes or so, then go driving and see if the code comes back.

illicit

Done tried all of that. Besides that it will only run for 2 secs off the cold start injector..

abecedarian

runs for 2 seconds then dies?

check the wiring to the air flow meter.

abecedarian

If you're brave...
trace down the wiring to the Circuit Opening Relay.

illicit

Done checked the afm its showing good, even jumped the fuel pump to make sure. It still only ran for two secs. Im pretty sure the circuit opening relay is working cause I can hear it click..

abecedarian

jump the fuel pump wiring in the diagnostic connector (B+ and FP) and check if it dies

abecedarian

you should hear the COR click when you start cranking the engine and then... it shouldn't click again.

Wile E. Toyote

Check to see if your injectors are firing, you can use a soundscope or just stick your finger on 1 while someone cranks it for you. I had this same problem and it was a broken wire. It was on an 88 22re, there are 3 wires off the ignitor that go back to the ecu and carry the signal to fire the injectors among other things. Without that signal, you will get the symptoms you describe and throw a code 12. The wire the broke on mine was under the intake manifold in the wire loom, not sure of the color off hand.

illicit

Yeah I tried that and it doesnt help. You can hear the fuel pump running but still wont start. My cor is good also. My injectors are not firing, so I say I have the same prob has Wile E. Toyote, unless the ecu went bad...

abecedarian

are you getting 12v at the injector plugs?

Wile E. Toyote

Yeah, test the injector plugs. They should have 12v on both sides (still doesn't make sense to me, but that is the way it works). If everything else is working and you are getting the code 12, ecu is probably fine. Find the other end of that wire.

Flash319

[QUOTE=abecedarian;51064573]

A broken wire under the intake is not going to be the cause of your code.


Yes it can because the wiring for the distributor and the igniter run along the firewall and into the injector harness under the intake. That is the main engine harness and if you have broken wires then you are in the right spot.

]

illicit

I think the broken wire goes to my oil pressure sender because the wire has its own wrap around it and also there’s nothing on the oil pressure sender on the block. I'll check the injector plugs tonight to see if they are getting 12v. If the dizzy was off 180" it wouldn’t cause a code 12 would it... The guy who had the truck before me may have put it in wrong... I looked at the wiring diagram and the wire for the NE signal is the black and red wire coming from the igniter, so if all else fails ill trace it to the ecu.

illicit

Just checked the injector plugs and 12v to each one..

illicit

Ok the haynes manual says it could also be the starter signal circuit. most times when i try to start it the starter clicks once. In order to start it i have to use a jumper wire and touch a hot wire to the solenoid so the starter will turn, then it will crank fine. All of the grounds are good and i know the contacts in the starter are good cause it will turn every time you touch a jumper wire to it... Also the lead to the solenoid from the ignition switch is getting voltage. Would the code 12 have anything to do with this....

illicit

Ok I took the valve cover off to adjust the valves, and I noticed that the timing chain is off a tooth or two. so ill put it back in time and go from there... Also I think the code 12 I got came from me turning the starter over without the key switch on. I herd that would cause a code 12...

abecedarian

you're going to pull the crank pulley and oil pump to set the chain right?