Zelephant

My first technical post outside the newbie section, hopefully it's not too simple.

My working on removing my DS CV half-shaft in my 89 'Runner. I've removed the free-wheeling hub, the snap ring and washer, and the six bolts to the diff, and at this point I'm stuck. The FSM says to pull the shaft out through the a-arm, but I can't seem to do this for a number of reasons. First, the studs on the diff flang are in the way. I tried heating them with a small torch and banging them out with a hammer, but that didn't work. When I turn the wheel full right and jack up the lower ball joint, I can get the CV shaft to move back and forth a bit, but the lower a-arm keeps it from coming down far enough to slide out. When searching, I saw someone suggest removing the four bolts from the lower ball joint and removing the CV shaft that way, but from what I can see, my lower ball joint has only one BIG bolt; the upper ball joint has four.

If anyone knows where to go from here, please help! I'm at wits end with this job .

mtbfreeriderkyle@yah

I replaced one in my 90 pickup about two months ago. Had the same problem.. i couldnt get the lower ball joint out. So i ended up unbolting the upper control arm from the spindle (the four lil bolts on top).. i had to use a 2X4 and a jack to push it up to be able to get the spindle out. But from there the cv slipped right out..

99SR5

iTrader: (1)

i had to take the 4 bolts out from the lower ball joint and the lower shock bolt

Zelephant

mtbfreeriderkyle: I tried removing the four upper-ball joint bolts and using a length of PVC pipe to wedge the upper arm up, but didn't get too far. You don't happen to have pics of how you did it?

99SR5: The thing is, I don't see four small bolts on the lower ball joint, just one big one .

Please keep the ideas coming, I'm still stuck!

iamsuperbleeder

that's the probelm with removing the upper ball joint to get to the CV; it's recessed into the UCA

when removing the lower ball joint from the LCA, you dont run into that problem since the LCU is free-floating, and it bolts to the spindle



and unfortunately, I don't think any peice of PVC piping is going to be strong enough to overcome the force of the T-bars on the UCA

if you want to go through the UCA still though, a common trick is to jack that corner of the truck up to compress the suspention, then stick a peice of a 2x4 in between the bump-stop and UCA; then when you take the jack back out, the suspention will not be able to droop, and when you unbolt the upper ball joint, the UCA will stay raised and give a lot more room

mt_goat

I was able to remove those studs using a strong "C" clamp and a socket. If you get them out just replace them with bolts so the next time it will be easier.

flashkl

x2 on using a c-clamp/press to press out the studs. You can do it while the cv axels still attached to the diff flange and then you don't have to bother with undoing ball joints or compressing the suspension or anything.

Zelephant

Thanks for the replies! Both ideas sound good; either way, I need to make a trip to Lowes, though. I don't have a either a c-clamp or any size 2x4.

If anyone has any more ideas, though, please post.

89silverpu

Do you know of any write ups or anything for this?

Zelephant

x2, a write up would help!

Gator

I swapped both CV's on mine yesterday. I just unbolted the shock at the bottom, unbolted the stabilizer bar link, and the two bolts that hold the lower a-arm on and dropped the whole lower a-arm right at the frame and was able to swap CV's in about an hour. No need to get into your ball joints and such. The upper a-arm is connected to the torsion bar so you don't really want to mess with anything on the uppers. It's not that bad if you pull it loose from where I did. The bolts that hold the a-arm on have elliptical washers on them so just use a silver sharpie to mark their position before removing them and it will all line right back up when you put it back together.

Zelephant

OK, I tried using a c-clamp on the bolts- no good, I tightened the clamp down as much as I could with first a 17mm socket over the stud, then a 19mm (the stud is 17mm). I drenched all the bolts in penetrator, and will try again later. I might have to use the 2x4 method after all. In the meantime, any suggestions?

mt_goat

I had to use a cheater wrench on the "C" clamp handle.

scope103

I'm sure it has occurred to you that Toyota didn't design this truck so that you had to remove Diff flange studs, or the ball joints, or even the stabilizer bar to get the half-shaft out.

You simply need to compress the spring to the point where it would be if the truck were sitting on the ground. On my '94, I jack up the truck, remove the wheel, and then lower the wheel rotor onto a jack stand, so that the weight of the truck compresses the spring (actually, torsion bar). Then the half-shaft comes right out. Iamsuperbleeder's suggestion of jacking up the opposite corner gets you just enough more compression on the working side that you should be able to remove the half shaft if, for instance, your torsion bars aren't set equally. (Except iamsuperbleeder then suggests you remove the upper ball joint -- I sure don't have to do that, and I don't think either of you would have to either.)

If you sit the frame on your jack/jackstand with the wheel dangling, I can guaranty you that the half-shaft won't come out without major surgery. Get the angles the way the designers wanted them!

Zelephant

My jackstand didn't fit under the lower suspension arm, so I just put the tire back on the truck, and lowered it down. The CV is so close to coming out, just the plate on the CV that bolts onto the diff tulip can't clear the studs! I tried turning the wheel full right and then left, but still can't clear the studs . I'd love to believe that the CV will slide out if the angles are right, but the studs keep getting in the way! I'm about to try the c-clamp on those studs again, I only have to get out one or two let the CV drop out. Does anyone have any other ideas?

clydehatchet

I removed both cv shafts a little over 4 months ago. It was tough btw. took both wheels off, put jack stands under both lower ball joints as low as i could to relieve ALL the pressure. took lower shock bolt out to free up some space and had to steer back and forth to free up more space while pulling the shaft out. It wasn't easy, but it worked. I didn't even think about takin off the stabilizer. probably should have been a little smarter but its done all the same. But if you hold your mouth just right, its should come out just fine. dont get frustrated ESPECIALLY when putting the new one back in, it took a lot of beers and a pack and a half of cigarettes in less than four hours to get it right.

Good Luck

scope103

In my experience (which is limited to one truck of one year), that should work. I'm with ClydeHatchet on this one; even when they eventually come out, it is easy to get frustrated. And then you start pulling on something that just wants a little push. (or vice versa).

Since your truck is sitting on the tire, you might have someone sit on the fender. You might need just a tiny bit more compression to get the angle right.

Good luck!

Zelephant

Yeah, I'm doing my best not to get too frustrated. I might try and get a fat friend of mine to sit on the fender. Hopefully I'll get somewhere soon, I've got the reman'd CV ready and waiting.

GSGALLANT

For the balljoint, you are looking at the large stud that comes out of the bottom of the balljoint and holds the balljoint to the lower control arm. You don't need to touch that one. Look at the top of the balljoint. There are four bolts that hold it to the spindle. Take those off, and pry the lower control arm down to separate the balljoint from the spindle (you may need a small chisel and hammer to separate them if they are held together by rust. There are two grooves (one on the front and one on the back of the balljoint, I think) that you can put the chisel in to help separate them).

NicCantDecide

I did the exact same thing as GSGALLANT, just unbolt the whole balljoint from the spindle, no reason to separate it from the LCA.