HELP. Post head gasket code 14
#1
HELP. Post head gasket code 14
Just finished putting engine back together after replacing head gaskets (3VZE). Now won't start. Timing is correct, 95% sure correct. Replaced Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, and plugs. Engine turns and will turn over for a split second then cuts off, and won't turn over again unless I let it sit for about a minute. I can smell gas after turning and have a good spark, (timing light lighing up fine on all wires.)
Getting code 14 and code 22. (22 because my Engine Coolant Temp Switch I think needs replacing)
Took negative terminal off battery and after putting it back on code 14 is gone but have same symptoms. ???
Truck ran fine before head gasket blew which makes me doubt that Ignitor is bad... also get sparks fine. I'm assuming that its starts alright and whatever reason code 14 is coming on is causing injectors to cut out????
Any info would be awesome, I'm totally lost at this point...
Getting code 14 and code 22. (22 because my Engine Coolant Temp Switch I think needs replacing)
Took negative terminal off battery and after putting it back on code 14 is gone but have same symptoms. ???
Truck ran fine before head gasket blew which makes me doubt that Ignitor is bad... also get sparks fine. I'm assuming that its starts alright and whatever reason code 14 is coming on is causing injectors to cut out????
Any info would be awesome, I'm totally lost at this point...
Last edited by NAte92588; 02-04-2015 at 04:39 PM.
#3
Got out to work on it today since weather was ok. Checked wiring between Ignitor and ECM, everything good. Checked wiring between ignitor and coil, everything good. Checked coils in distributer, everything good.
Still getting code 14. And truck won;t stay running for more than 1-2 seconds.
Going out to check the wires between the dist and ecm now... don't know if that would cause an issue with code 14 but im lost now.
I feel like it's something simple like a ground i missed somewhere. I know that I got the ground that is connected to the head on the drivers side. The one coming out of the firewall behind the engine connecting to the engine. And I think one that was under the Power steering.
Someone save me with some advise on what else to check.
Still getting code 14. And truck won;t stay running for more than 1-2 seconds.
Going out to check the wires between the dist and ecm now... don't know if that would cause an issue with code 14 but im lost now.
I feel like it's something simple like a ground i missed somewhere. I know that I got the ground that is connected to the head on the drivers side. The one coming out of the firewall behind the engine connecting to the engine. And I think one that was under the Power steering.
Someone save me with some advise on what else to check.
#4
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How?
What is code 14? "IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition." The IGF signal is generated in the igniter, so I would always question that. Alas, an igniter is not cheap and there is no way to test them. So I would assure that the IGF lead (B-Y) is good from the igniter to the ECU. Not "looks good," tested with your multimeter.
And yes. Loss of the IGF signal causes the ECU to shut off the injectors.
What is code 14? "IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition." The IGF signal is generated in the igniter, so I would always question that. Alas, an igniter is not cheap and there is no way to test them. So I would assure that the IGF lead (B-Y) is good from the igniter to the ECU. Not "looks good," tested with your multimeter.
And yes. Loss of the IGF signal causes the ECU to shut off the injectors.
#5
I used a multimeter on the IGF lead, I think it was black and yellow and it was fine. Other than a bad ignitor I don't really know what else would cause loss of IGF. Truck ran fine before I took it all apart which makes me hesitant that the ignitor is actually bad.. I found one at a yard for 25$. I may go pick it up tomorrow just to try it
Last edited by NAte92588; 02-05-2015 at 01:46 PM.
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