03tjeptx

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and new to the 4Runner. I have a 94 with the 3.0 and I have a couple of issues. I bought it recently and am tracking down all of the small issues it has with the help of the many threads here. Now I have come to you because there are some vague answers and I need clarification. I have a high idle, 1k-1500ish. Even after it warms up, its still high. I changed fluids, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, idle is still high. Had a couple of oil leaks, valve cover (fixed) oil cooler (fixed) but still leaking (head gasket maybe?). Gotta spray it down at the car wash for sure. While hunting for the leak today I found the TVV vacuum hose broke off. Now the details... When I replaced the valve cover gaskets I took off the throttle body and found a lower bolt missing that mounts the throttle body to the intake. Would the TVV valve cause the high idle since its vacuum is associated with the TB? Obviously the bolt issue could very well be the source of the leak, could I pick one up from Oriley's parts? I appreciate the help.

82shorty

only if they stock metric fasteners, and vacuum leaks are always a problem

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Does your check engine light work? Have you checked to see if the ecu has stored any diagnostic codes? Is the throttle cable relaxed? Or did someone tighten it up to keep the idle high to keep it from stalling?

03tjeptx

The check engine light works, I haven't checked for codes. The little bumper on the throttle pedal under the dash feels soft but the cable doesn't seem tight. When I pulled the TB off and put it back on it wasn't that great of a struggle to get the cable off and on. Is there a way to check the tension on the throttle cable? Is there a way to check the codes without a reader? Would the broken TVV cause the high idle? Would I be fixing something that would have anything to do with my idle if I mess with the TVV?

jrock08

On my '88 there's a diagnostics checker by the fuse box under the hood. Just jump ports t and e1 (I just used a paper clip) and cut the ignition to on without starting truck and count the cel flashes and that'll give you a code. 4crawler's website explains it better than me:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml

jammin962

Here's the link to the FSM thread

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...manual-156129/

There should be info in there about throttle cable and idle adjustment.
I would check throttle cable adjustment while repairing the TVV and any other vacuum issues. (there's a lot of hoses down there) Only start playing with the idle screw AFTER you have fixed all other possible issues.

There should only be two different types of bolts for the Throttle Body, 2 longer and 2 shorter for a total of 4. So which ever one you only have one of measure the length and thread pitch and see if you can get it from your local hardware store or something.

I would say that your vacuum leaks are probably causing your idle issues but it would probably be a good idea to test your cold start injector and sensor while you're replacing your TVV just to eliminate the possibility of malfunctions within that system. There is info for these test procedures in the manual also.

Good luck

03tjeptx

Awesome! keep the pointers coming, I appreciate the help and ideas. I'll get all up in it tomorrow and give you guys the update.

03tjeptx

Alright, for those of you who are still with me here I have done the following. Checked codes, all clear. Fixed TVV and ran vacuum lines, snug fit. Got replacement bolt for throttle body, all good. Checked timing....cant get it under 15 BTDC. It was WAY advanced and it did help the idle, now I'm closer to 1100ish and steady, no surging. I may have found the oil leak, cam bearing? Still have to wash the undercarriage but its dripping at a pretty good tic. Did I miss anything?

jrock08

Just to make sure we covered all bases, do you know for a fact that the check engine light works? Not trying to be smart just making sure.

03tjeptx

Yes, check engine light works. Its flashes with the jumper wire in when I was setting the timing. NEW ISSUE!! Sooooo, took it out around the block, just to make sure all was well and now there is a jerking going on when I shift into third. Any ideas? I'm about to implore the search function but if somebody has an answer quick I am ready.

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

The idle can be adjusted with the idle adjustment screw but make sure everything else is working correct first - this is the adjustment of last resort. It's also a good source of vacuum leakage too, so make sure the o-ring is good.

I'm guessing the tranny issue was there just hiding behind the high idle and other issues. THe FSM has diagnosis info on that as well. I don't remember enough to advise you well on that.

03tjeptx

The transmission shifted fine before the work, and I don't doubt the fluid can stand to be changed. Honestly the jerking didn't start until after i adjusted the timing. If somebody advance the timing before I had it, and I brought it as close to spec as possible would that point to the possibility of a skipped/bad timing belt? Because after I adjusted the timing the distributor adjustment bolt is as low as it can go.

93toyrunner2

If the distributor is maxed out on movement, you have a timing issue. Your going to need to take the timing cover off and confirm or replace the timing belt. There are plenty of write-ups on this site to walk you through this procedure. You might as well plan on a timing belt, 2 pulleys, and a water pump. Get yourself a copy of the FSM from the link in my signature, and read about it.

03tjeptx

Update...so I tested the TPS more than once and its working fine. Read a lot on here and finally adjusted the TPS and that dropped the idle way down. Readjusted the timing (with the jumper wire in place) and got it real close. After messing with the timing AGAIN, it started to make a motorboat sound, ran smooth, just motorboatin'. Read some more and found that the reed valve was missing ALL of the screws. Went to the hardware store, picked up some 5mm allen screws, cursed and yelled and busted a few knuckles and motorboat went away. Now my idle sits between 900-1000. Smooth as butter idle. No transmission kick, and no difficult start. I have some Redline MT-90 on the way to me to help the clunky shifting since who know when the tranny was serviced. Also have to trace down that oil leak coming from the driver side rear or motor. I changed the valve cover gaskets and plan on changing the cam plug. Question...Should I be satisfied with the idle being where it is or would replacing the o2 sensor help with getting the idle closer to 8hundo? My gamble is if they (PO) didn't notice or messed with the idle to alleviate the motorboat sound, then the o2 sensor is probably the same one it has had since 94. Could it would it help?

Thoughts? Suggestions? Concerns?

I've learned a lot about this 4runner and I owe it all to this forum.