Gamble_STi

Ok, so basically 4wd in my truck never worked. It's a 1993 toyota pickup regular cab 5 speed 4wd with a 22re

The gear on the door is B03A
Or 8" 4:10

When you engage 4 wheel, it bucks all over the place, and the rear pushes the front (rear spins faster)

So today, I did the turn the tire method, on the lift for the rear, 2 turns of the tire indicated four turns and about an inch (give or take) of the drive shaft.

The front, two turns yielded almost 5 turns, about an inch and a half would have been 5 turns.

So I think it has 4.10 in the rear, and 4.88 in the front. Does this sound Like a good assumption?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I got the below codes from my local salvage yard. That code does not look right. I would count the teeth for the best method. Two different gears will bind up. I have swapped out with two different brands of tires on one end and another brand on the other end but the same size and cause the gears to bind up. A Nike shoe in a size 10 is not the same size as Reboxs in a size 10.

Gamble_STi

I know it doesn't look right. I checked that list to. The date of manufacture on the door is 1992, but the axle code is B03A which is from the newer year.

Its too much work for me to try And drop the covers to just verify by counting the teeth. Not to mention a waste of gear oil. I don't want to mess with it, and I'm only swapping the rear. The front is too much of a hassle. I don't mud it or take it off road, would just like the 4wd to work for when I get stuck, and for heavy snow.

RJR

If you want to get a bit better resolution, turn the wheel 20 times and count drive shaft rotations, then divide by 10. That will get you just as close as counting gear teeth with a lot less work. It helps to have two people counting, one watching the wheel and one watching the drive shaft, to avoid getting confused.

Based on what you've said, though, you're probably right, 4.10 in the rear and 4.88 in the front. If you're not into serious offroad, I'd make them both 4.10's.

Gamble_STi

I would make them both 4.10, but isn't changing the front a real pita? I mean, I can do the rear in under 2 hours. The front seems quite a bit worse.

RJR

I've done both, and while the rear is a bit more straight forward, I wouldn't say there's a lot of difference in total work required. The front just looks more complicated at first. Here's a great writeup for removing the front diff and pulling it apart. http://www.gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm. Zuk's website also has a wealth of other info about servicing Toyota diffs.

Just run the front wheels up on ramps. You don't need to remove the wheels or bearing end caps/drive flanges. Edit: Actually, you do need to remove the drive flanges so that you can rotate the CV shafts to get at all of the nuts, unless you lift the wheels off the ground. I just removed the flanges, rotated the CV shaft to get at the next nut, and then slid the flange back on to lock the shaft so it wouldn't turn when I removed the nut. I just worked my way around the 6 nuts doing that.

Hardest part is breaking loose the 6 nuts on each side holding the CV shafts to the differential side shafts.

I made a small wooden platform to bolt to the top of my floor jack to catch the diff to lower it, and to raise it back in place when I was done.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

I've done both too. I would almost say the front is easier than the rear - this is because the rear you have to drain the gear oil and remove the rear brake lines. Sure the front is somewhat complicated due to location, but could technically be done without messing with any fluids. Last time I did the front (to get to oil pan), I simply took off the front crossmember and it was WAY easier than twisting it around to get it off -- the previous time, I removed all 12 CV studs and ground down the splines slightly so they come out for easy CV or diff swap.

toyota4x4907

If its a factory front diff, as in not aftermarket gears, the end of the pinion gear will have a color painted on it. Unbolt the driveshaft at the diff flange to expose it.

Also, just a little info, you have the B03A code because they started assemblying some of the trucks in the U.S. in the early '90s. I think '92 was actually the first year.