Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Need some input confirming I'm at TDC or NOT. It seems kind of late asking, but I just noticed my "shiny" links are not at the top as I've read I should expect.

My distributor rotor is at 11 o'clock, my dimples on the cam gear are at the 12 o'clock, I can't really tell if the crank gear is at the 6 o'clock because the chain is still on but the raised area on the shaft is on top like I've seen photos. I put a clothes hanger down the #1 spark plug hole and felt it rise and peak before I started tearing down.

But the SHINY links are not where I've read they should be. They are located on the right/left sides. Is it possible that the mechanic before me put it on wrong or am I not at TDC?

olharleyman

Should be
cam gear just before 12 o'clock
disy at #1
crank at 6 o'clock

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure where you started, here. Did you just tear this down? And you're trying to verify that you're on TDC-Compression, before going any further? Reason I ask is because, once you get that motor cranked over after it's reinstalled(I'm assuming it was running, and you just tore it down).... it can take MANYYYYYYYY full revolutions of the crank, before the bright links line up as they're supposed to.

The lining of the bright link up portion is for "Check list as you assemble"... You'd made sure the #1 and #4 pistons are up, 2 and 3 down, Bright link just over the dimple(which should be at 11:59), EXACTLY(not to left or right at all), bright link on bottom at 6 on the crank gear, EXACTLY, .....and the CAM Notch(not the dimple that the shiny link goes over, ...the actual Knob that the Cam Sprocket fits over) should be at 12'o'clock on the DOT! At that point, your #1 and #2 Intake Valves and #1 and #3 Exhaust Valves should be 'moveable' while the rest are tight.... Then you insert the Dizzy at 12'o'clock position, let it slide in and it will fall right to 10'o'clock(#1 Plug wire), and the dimple in the Dizzy Drive Gear should be just counterclockwise, RIGHT before the CAM-Dizzy Drive Gear.

Remember, ...2 full turns of the Crank for every one turn of the CAM Gear. Turn it over 2 more full revolutions and see if those bright links don't just SMACK right on the spot? lol.(Just put the Cam Sprocket mounting bolt in first

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I just tore this down after it has been running. I'm going to change the chain (maintenance). So the bright links would only be at the 12 and 6 if I were to be super lucky during tear down, but the bright links should be installed at 12 and 6 during assembly for reference?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YEP!

Just for giggles, .... try turning it over, with the cam sprocket mounting bolt re-installed, a couple more times, like I suggested. See where the bright links wind up after those 2 more full turns of the crank.(which would bring you back to TDC on compression again, ya know?)

It might not line up perfectly.... but from what I'm looking at, it looks like you're about 2 full turns, back to TDC, from getting the links to line up. Try it, why not, right?

I'll check back in, and best wishes on the timing kit install. You're doing a steel driver side guide kit?

PS> You can look up info on this at engnbldr.com and 22reperformance.com and probably one of the best, '4crawler.com', which will tell you the special instructions like "NEVER torque the tensioner bolts more than 12#, EVER.", "Did you clean your hands, VERY WELL?", and more detailed ones, of course, regarding tricks to keeping the upper sprocket in place/still, as well as "tape the tensioner in the depressed position while you get the cam sprocket back onto the cam"... (that can be tough some times... it doesn't mean there's something wrong. I had to turn the crank BACK a short distance to get some slack enough to get the sprocket back on the cam,... stuff like that.

Best wishes, Grego,..... and once again, YES, if you're CERTAIN you're on TDC on the Compression stroke, #1 and #4 pistons up, dizzy on #1, then you can install your chain again with the shiny links as instructed in your kit and it will be just fine.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Great, thanks! I have the engnbldr 4 piece kit so the driver side guide has the metal backing. I'm not liking the oil pump though. The "0" and "5" marks are right next to each other, whereas the OEM one has a significant gap between them....so don't know how that play out- was going to shoot them an email. I'll post a photo if you're curious to know what I'm referring to.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I have the same "Rock" I believe Oil Pump. I think it's just that the 5 is bigger than the stock ones... but you still go by the markings. I might have a pic of mine, to compare. Just ask Tod what he thinks, ...for sure. GREAT GUY! And also mention your concern about the shiny link, where it's at now, etc., just to have confirmation from someone FAR more experienced than myself! lol. (First, though.... just try what I said, ok?)

Best wishes, Grego....(is your name Gregor by the way?) ... I knew a Gregor, just curious. lol.

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Here is an image of the two Oil pumps...see the gap between the timing numbers? I sent an email to engnbldr just now.



And no, my birth certificate name is Greg but have gone by Grego since I was born...so Grego is fine..hahhahaa.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, like i was saying,...just go by the MARK under the 5, not the 5 itself... The mark is close, as is the 8, 12, etc. Just line up the bolt/spring portion perfectly, then put a straight edge to the new one and old one and 'paint pen' yourself silly! lol.

Brian1965

I'm replacing the timing chain cover because it cracked while replacing the water pump on my 92 22RE engine . What is the best way to verify that I'm at tdc with the distributer off

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I sent you a PM... You can re post it here if you want. Best of luck to you man

colkid

Hi,i have not been on this site long, but love what I see so far.i need more post to be able to start a thread,not trying to jump yours. I am doing a timing chain replacement on a 85 4runner & Im pretty sure the chain jumped a tooth.had to retard timing all the way to get it to run.question is would you line up crank pully to tdc & cam gear will have to be reset?thanks to all & good luck with your job!