Mr. iNCREDIBLE

ok here is the situation.


blew a head gasket on my 1995 4runner 3.0.


tore the motor down, did a complete rebuild (246,000 miles on the ODO, no clue on the motor as I bought it used and am the 4th owner).


pistons, rings, rod and main bearings, timing belt, etc. full short block rebuild, all gaskets and seals.


full head rebuild, valves, valve guides, cams, etc. (heads I got done at a local shop)


fit everything back together, and with Starter Fluid she cranks and runs with no issue.


Fuel pump is pushing 44PSI (at the banjo connector on the fuel rail)


it appears that the injectors are not pulsing.. ran through several diagnostics, tried 2 different ECMs, replaced the distributor.




same issue, vehicle will not turn over on crank or stay running, there is spark, fuel pump is providing fuel, but I am getting no joy at the injectors.


using a fuel injector test light kit, it appears no pulse width at the injectors.. Though both injector leads in the connectors are hot, which I understand is correct until they get a signal from the ECM.


I have disconnected the alarm that came with the truck when I bought it thinking it was causing the issue. .


I and my buddy who helped me (who owns an shop building import race/drift cars) are out of ideas..




Help.

Gamefreakgc

So fuel pump is on with pressure but nothing is coming out of the injectors? Is there any damage to the engine harness? Have you double checked all the grounds are secure and connected? There's one on top of the plenum, on the back side of the passenger's side valve cover, off the negative battery terminal, to name a few.

AdmiralYoda

Is there power coming out of the EFI relay?

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

my buddy is going thru the wiring now.. to me it seems to be electrical, which is why I started with removing the alarm, as it was flaky to begin with.

his recommendation is to replace the Distributor, but all of this worked prior to the tear down, hell I drove the beast 6 miles to his shop burning oil and smoking like hell with the blown head gasket (yeah yeah I know.. this is why I rebuilt the whole flipping motor.) Everything worked and ran prior to the tear down.



yes.

scope103

If it runs with starter fluid, it's probably not a problem with the distributor. The G signal from the distributor fires both the plugs and the injectors; you know the plugs are firing.

You've tried most of the obvious (and not so obvious) stuff. At this point, I'd unplug each injector, and put a noid light on each connector (a shorted injector, or just a shorted connector, will keep the rest from firing). If you don't get a pulse that way, check for continuity on the injector connector back to the ECU. (If open, the injectors will just sit at 12v)

By the way, the fuel pressure spec for the '94 is 38-44psi; 94psi is awfully high. If your FPR fails closed, that high pressure should flood the engine (but then, it shouldn't run on starting fluid).

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

lol, fuel pressure was a typo.. didn't even notice it... 44psi at the banjo connector to the fuel rail.


we've tested with the injector lights, but only on cylinder #2 because its injector is the easiest to get too. guess we need to get to the others

MudHippy

I sure hope you haven't been spraying starting fluid through the VAFM. Because you probably killed it if you did. It's also up there near the top of the list(at #5) of things that might cause the issue. Whether it was already dead or not.

I've got another question regarding how you're using the starting fluid. But I don't want to insult your intelligence too much. Not right off the bat anyway. Maybe just me mentioning it will clue you in.

Hint: There's almost no correct way to do that on an engine without a carburetor.

That list BTW:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf

Got codes?

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

yeah trying to sort out how to get the codes..


I have your link from searching earlier.


I have this link:


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector


and from what I can tell I need to jump T and E1 (TE1) and count the check engine light flashes..


but I'm not sure and hesitant to jump those points without confirmation.




--


as for the starting fluid, that was sprayed @ the TB with the air cleaner disconnected just to verify it would turn over and we had spark... lasted all of 5 seconds. I am well aware of the potential of blowing the motor doing it, it wasn't done with us continuing to dump SF into the motor to keep it running, just wanted to verify it would turn over..


--


thing I am wondering now, is my buddy checked the fuel pump, but he did it with a tool, disconnected the connector under the passenger side rear seat access, but I don't recall him checking it by cycling the key.. Fuel Pump may be working, but I wonder now if it is getting power from the vehicle..




I'm heading over there in about 20 minutes.. any further information anyone can provide would be great, and if anyone is near the Bellflower, CA area and wants to come and help I'll buy the pizza and beer..




I need to get this truck running and out of my buddies shop, it's been there wasting space for 2 months.

scope103

It never ceases to amaze me how someone can (claim to) do a "complete rebuild" without even knowing whether a manual exists! How do you know the torque values?

Yes, you jumper TE1 to E1. All answers are found in the Good Book. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

With the air cleaner disconnected (for any reason), the fuel pump will not run. It will run with the key in STA (start), but once you let go of the key it depends on air flowing through the VAF to keep the pump running.

You need to go back a few squares. Read through the manual to figure out what you forgot in your complete rebuild. Put everything together before you try to start it (especially the air cleaner).

I'll bet it will start right up.

MudHippy

Bingo!

No, no, no, not going to blow the motor. Not too likely anyway. But the engine isn't supposed to run without the air cleaner hose attached. If it isn't attached, then the VAFM is stuck closed(through lack of air flow). And if the VAFM is stuck closed then...wait for it...THERE'S YOUR PROBLEM!!! And even if it isn't stuck closed, it could still be your problem.

EDIT: scope103 knows what's up. Listen to him too.

BTW, even if you sprayed the starting fluid through say the PCV hose, near the TB, but left just the PCV hose disconnected, it's also not going to run(or stay running atleast). Due to a massive vacuum leak, and/or the VAFM not functioning correctly(again, not enough air flow through it).

Like I'm saying, there's just no real correct way to do that on an engine w/o a carburetor.

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

Regardless of the air tube being connected or not. The vehicle won't stay running.


It starts and dies within 1-2 seconds. And I now have a very distinct fuel smell. I don't know what Sam has done since I was last here Tuesday. I am waiting for him to return to the shop he went to get parts for another vehicle.

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

Ok so I get.

2 flashes. Pause
4 flashes. Pause
3 flashes. Pause
1 flash. Pause then repeat

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

Ok so 24 and 31 point to the AFM. Ohmed out the AFM according to specs on alldata and everything checks out.

I'm at a loss

MudHippy

Ok, next step is to go through the procedures outlined on pages EG2-190 and EG2-191. Should have been first step, but that's alright. You saved yourself a step or two doing it the other way around. But it wouldn't hurt to double check whatever might apply, if instructed to do so.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...86troubles.pdf

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

Yeah Sam has that from alldata we went thru it twice. No dice.


I'm about done. Thinking it is time to get it towed to a dealer. But if it costs me more than a few hundred it's getting towed to a wrecking yard.

Mr. iNCREDIBLE

so it ends up being a broken wire inside the wire harness that runs along the front of the intake behind the timing belt cover..


looks like at some point someone may have used a test probe and they cut back the shielding on the wire, all the movement and etc with the rebuild must've caused it to break, it was pretty corroded.


striped it back a few inches and soldered a new piece into it (even found the same color wire on a old Toyota harness in the shop), heat shrinked it and re-wrapped the harness with a new loom and electrical tape and she fires right up and sounds Purdy..